News
Back to Egypt (And Loving It)
Egypt’s recent troubles are having a devastating effect on tourism. After watching daily news reports on TV, reading the national newspapers and surfing the web for more information it is easy to see why Foreign Offices across the globe are warning against all but necessary travel to Egypt; airlines are reducing the number of flights or, in extreme cases, cancelling all flights to the country. But are these measures really necessary – or even justified? After all, the troubles are confined to small pockets in some cities and some parts of the Sinai Peninsula. Southern regions of the country remain peaceful, remote and unaffected by the unrest of the revolutions.
As an avid supporter of Egyptian tourism and a Red Sea veteran, with over 20 diving tours to date, you can imagine my surprise when, on a recent flight to Egypt in the April school holiday, I got up to stretch my legs and found many empty seats. April marks the start of the holiday season here in the UK and as such this would normally be one of the busiest periods of the year with holiday makers bustling to part with their hard earned cash to reach the diving capital of the world.
It is no secret that divers have for decades classed Egypt’s Red Sea as their second home. It’s a safe bet that any diver with over 50 dives in their log book would more than likely have registered half of them in one of the many resorts dotted along the Sinai’s coast.
Most surprising, however, was the fact that when we landed at Marsa Alam International Airport we noticed that our plane was the only plane on the tarmac. As soon as we had disembarked and were in the arrivals terminal our group of six managed to purchase the necessary visas and pass through immigration and the baggage hall in record time. Security at the airport was, as usual, evident but relaxed. There are, as you would expect, armed guards but those can be found at every airport across the world.
Once out of the terminal we were warmly greeted by our tour Rep and driver and then it was all aboard the minibus for the two hour scenic journey to our destination, Red Sea Diving Safari’s eco village Marsa Nakari. With the Red Sea mountains to the right and the Red Sea itself to our left we headed south. I should point out that at no time did we have, or was it necessary for us to have, an armed guard or escort. We passed many large hotels standing empty and construction sites, with partially built structures, lying idle. Our driver told us that the Egyptian Tourist Board can no longer gauge the holiday seasons. Before the troubles began it was possible to accurately estimate how many guests would arrive at any one time; now there’s just a trickle of guests arriving each month. This is a far cry from the thousands of travellers from around the world who would have descended on this land of historical and natural beauty every week.
The quietness of the area became even more obvious when we reached our holiday destination Marsa Nakari. This particular eco village can cater for 160 guests, and offers every conceivable diving adventure possible; truck dives, day boat diving, zodiac dives, shore dives on its outstanding house reef as well as more demanding technical dives. However, because of Egypt’s troubles and international concern for the safety of travellers to the country, our group of six divers were, for part of the week, the only guests on site.
We had a fantastic time: the service was second to none, the food was delicious and plentiful and the diving out of this world. I suppose the one positive to come out of all of the uncertainty, is that the reefs have had time to rejuvenate and are absolutely teeming with marine life. Also, divers aren’t tripping over each other while trying to take those all important shots of a clownfish or flamboyant nudibranch. I imagine that the diving here is now much like it once was back in the 1980s with just a few divers exploring an unknown reef at their leisure. This resonates along the entire length of the Red Sea. No longer are the reefs a victim of their own success – bleached white, damaged by fins or overcrowded with divers. They are, once again, vibrant, colourful, living underwater landscapes.
Unlike other hotel complexes Marsa Nakari isn’t surrounded by a fence and there are no security guards patrolling its perimeter. In fact the whole Egyptian population could have popped in at any time of day or night for a cup of coffee and a slice of cake and yet not once did I feel threatened or afraid for my, my wife’s or our fellow holidaymaker’s safety. We enjoyed truck dives, visiting deserted beaches and diving with fan tail rays and guitar sharks. We took advantage of the unlimited diving on offer, squeezing in as many dives as possible throughout the week. And at the end of the stay a unanimous vote by the four novice divers in our group revealed that they would return in the very near future.
So why are you staying away from the Red Sea? I couldn’t say, but while you sit at home contemplating the answer, I will be busy booking my next trip so that I can, once again very soon, enjoy the warmth, hospitality and superb diving that this fascinating country, with its warm and hospitable people, has to offer.
Fancy winning a dive holiday to Marsa Nakari in the Red Sea? Scubaverse.com has teamed up with Oonasdivers and Red Sea Diving Safaris to give one lucky diver the chance to do just that! To enter this awesome competition, click here.
To find out more about Patrick visit www.exclusivelyscuba.co.uk.
Gear News
Scubapro Free Octopus Promotion 2024
Free Octopus with every purchase of a SCUBAPRO regulator system
Just in time for the spring season, divers can save money with the FREE OCTOPUS SPRING PROMOTION! Until July 31st SCUBAPRO offers an Octopus for free
with every purchase of a regulator system!
Get a free S270 OCTOPUS with purchase of these combinations:
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with A700
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with S620Ti
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with D420
MK25 EVO Din mit S620Ti-X
Get a free R105 OCTOPUS with purchase of the following combinations:
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with G260
MK25 EVO or MK17 EVO with S600
SCUBAPRO offers a 30-year first owner warranty on all regulators, with a revision period of two years or 100 dives. All SCUBAPRO regulators are of course certified according to the new European test standard EN250-2014.
Available at participating SCUBAPRO dealers. Promotion may not be available in all regions. Find an authorized SCUBAPRO Dealer at scubapro.com.
More information available on www.scubapro.com.
Blogs
Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 3: The Mighty Thistlegorm
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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