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Dive Indonesia Part 3: Dive into Lembeh Trip Report

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In January The Scuba Place visited Ambon, Raja Ampat and Lembeh hosting a group of friends and divers, and what a blast they had! They stayed at some amazing spots and saw some amazing things! This is their trip report on their third and final stop in Lembeh.

There are well-known diving destinations, and then there are places that have a reputation on a level all on their own. For critters and all things small, weird, and wonderful, there is no place better known than Lembeh.

Lembeh is a small island sitting off the north-eastern coast of Sulawesi, accessed by Manado Airport, then an hour’s drive. Getting to Manado is easy –flights from Jakarta, a major international hub, are direct to Manado and Garuda Indonesia airline gives divers 20kgs of checked baggage plus another 23kgs for scuba equipment, free of charge! What could be better than that?!

Arriving in Manado is civilised – this is a sizeable airport and well-organised. Our baggage came out promptly, and we were met by our resorts’ drivers, popped into lovely, air-conditioned SUVs, and off we set on our journey to Dive into Lembeh.  The first 30 minutes or so of the journey was on the new main road to Bitung – after having navigated the local traffic surrounding the airport of course. Then, we were in the hills and the rural landscape replaced the city buildings.

Passing through the final village, Kasawari, you soon arrive at the resort where a warm greeting from the staff, bearing cold flannels and a tropical punch, awaits! While we sat and chatted and drank our much-needed cold punch, our bags were swept away. We were then escorted to our rooms, and WOW! – they were beautiful!

The rooms are in three categories – Long House, Sea View Bungalows, or a larger Suite.  The Long House is exactly that – a terrace of three rooms in one building and is set back in the gardens. The Long House rooms are twins or doubles and have a shared deck with views toward the sea. The Suite is an oversized room with a bedroom and lounge area and a huge open-air shower room.

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We stayed in a Sea View Bungalow.  They are at the front of the resort and overlook the water and a few are in front of the beautiful swimming pool too. Each bungalow has a canopy bed (king or twin configuration), a neat storage area with wardrobes and shelving, a day bed for extra storage or a third occupant, and a huge desk with power points with a stocked mini fridge below. There is also an indoor/outdoor bathroom with a walk-in shower.

The rooms are beautifully finished – authentic wood floors, walls, and woven ceilings and all the bungalows and the suite have their own deck to the front with table and chairs, plus the real surprise – a lovely Japanese-style style hot tub. This is, and trust us, the perfect place to sit with a cold beer after a full day of diving!

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The swimming pool is beautiful, and the terraces surrounding it look directly over the strait to the island. If you get any downtime, this is the place to be!  Or there is always the bar! The bar is in the central building together with a comfortable lounge area and of course the restaurant. Cold beers are plenty, but let the expert barman make you a cocktail – the Lembeh Mojito was superb! Imagine a normal mojito and add fresh lemon grass, fresh ginger, and chilli peppers … amazing!

This leads nicely into the food. – a very important part of any dive trip! There is, simply put, loads of it, and it is delicious!

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The first breakfast is toast and cereals, juice, and hot drinks. This is available all day every day!  The second breakfast is served after the first morning dive, and this is an awesome meal.  A good blend of Western and Indonesian offerings, with eggs cooked to order. Manado porridge, a local dish of savoury oats was delicious, and supported by nasi goreng, mi goreng, rice noodles, waffles, pancakes, and good old bacon.  Everything was cooked beautifully, and we were spoilt!  Fresh fruit was plentiful and with numerous lime, mango and soursop trees on the property, getting your 5-a-day was easy!

Lunch started with the most amazing soups freshly made each day. Three or four main meal selections were served with rice, noodles, potatoes, and tofu – the choice was amazing and the food delicious. Dessert would be fruit at lunchtime and a more substantial offering, normally with ice cream, at dinner, following another amazing main meal!

The chefs are genius – the food is exceptional, and of course, supplied with a choice of hot sambals and chilli relishes ranging from the tongue tingling to the head-melting inferno versions only for the brave (or daft!). The highlight of our week was a hog roast – served with all the trimmings. We had guests with dietary requirements and vegetarian preferences in our group, and they were well catered-to.

After our afternoon dive, we were greeted at the dive centre with hot ginger and lemon grass tea or hot chocolate alongside donuts, cakes, or biscuits. Eat, sleep, dive, and repeat – it is a real way of life here!

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The lounge and bar area are also a venue for some presentations. Our dive guide, Agust, studied marine biology at university and is a bit of a nudibranch specialist.  He delivered a great 40-minute presentation on his favourite subject. And then Ben, the dive boss and professional photographer of international standing, gave an inspirational talk on creative lighting using torches.  A few of our gang ditched their strobes and tried out some of the techniques Ben taught us with some exceptional results!

The camera room has rinse tanks and airguns outside, with personal cubby spaces and plenty of power points, towels, and storage – the perfect setup for underwater photographers and videographers. Between dives, you do what you need to your camera, and then pop it into a basket back in the rinse tank and it is automatically taken to the boat in time for your next dive.

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The dive centre is as close to the water as you can get and provides each diver with space for a gear basket and plenty of hanging space. There are rinse tanks right next to the kit room, showers, drying racks, and plenty of benches for pulling on those wetsuits and boots.  Your BCD awaits you on the boat, so absolutely no humping of kit anywhere!

The diving – at last, I hear you say!  Sorry not sorry – the resort is amazing, and it needed to be said! Packages at Dive into Lembeh can be based on two dives a day or three. We say book the three-dive package – you will want to do every possible dive there is, and it is a little cheaper to book in advance than it is to pay for extra dives in resort. Nitrox is available in the resort ($7 per fill or $20 per day) and guided night dives are $35.  Spend a few pennies and do a night dive!  Octopus, bobbit worms, moon head sea slug, nebulose moon snail, stargazers, frogfish…we saw so much!!

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07:30 is dive one, 10:30 the next, and then the third is at 230pm. The house reef is open all day in daylight hours too and is well worth a dive or three! From the boat, you drop in on muck, black sand, or a sloping seabed with coral bommies and then get your eyes into focus…. there is so much to see.

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Lembeh is famous for critters – all things weird and wonderful and is well known for frogfish and various species of octopi. Every dive captures the simply amazing nature of the Lembeh Strait.  We saw hairy, striated, painted, and warty frogfish of all shapes and sizes – from the smallest imaginable to the pretty huge.

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We encountered mimic, wonderpus, reef, long-armed, blue-ringed, and coconut octopus.  There are shrimps of every variety – emperor, Coleman, hairy, skeleton, harlequin, and tiger!

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And crabs – porcelain, pom-pom, candy, and squat lobsters galore, including the amazing purple hairy ones you can find on barrel coral!  We found scorpion fish, sea moths, Ambon scorpionfish, flathead and crocodile snake eels out hunting. And then nudis – hundreds of them! And seahorses and pygmy seahorses and and and and! The list is endless, and we will let our galleries do the talking, but it is safe to say that Lembeh delivered – in buckets!

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The best dive? Getting to spend 45 minutes watching a coconut octopus decide on a new ‘house’ – a bigger and better shell than it was in, and watching it move from one to the other, and then disposing of the old shell by carrying it away from its territory! Just magical.

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Our guides were exceptional and stayed with us from the beginning of the week to the very end, getting to know our diving styles and preferences and photography skills.  Many of the guides have some experience with underwater photography and were happy to hold torches and make suggestions – underwater!!  They tried their very best to deliver our bucket list and did so for one diver when they found a harlequin shrimp on our last dive!   We were lucky to have one guide for every two divers and we are now ruined forever!

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I know that there are those who like big stuff and colourful reefs, and I understand that totally – I am like that too. My first proper muck dive was a few years back in the Philippines, and I have been addicted ever since! The ‘yield’ is phenomenal in Lembeh, that being the amount of magical stuff that you see, and I would encourage everyone to give this a proper go. For photographers, macro lenses bring a little frustration at first and then great results – and using a strobe or a torch brings great colour to your photographs. For me, it doesn’t get any better, and I remain addicted to critters.

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And Dive into Lembeh? I am addicted to this place too – it really is, quite simply, brilliant on all counts.

We’re heading back to Indonesia in January 2025 and will be returning to Lembeh after visiting Ambon and Triton Bay.  Check out our brochure with full itinerary here.  Come Dive with Us!

And our friends Anne and Phil Medcalf of Alphamarine Photography are hosting a Photography Workshop at Dive into Lembeh in August 2026. Click here for more information and drop us a line if you’re interested!

lembeh

Key Facts:

  • Getting there :We suggest flying with Emirates from Heathrow to Jakarta via Dubai. From Jakarta you can fly direct to Manado on Garuda Indonesia.  We prefer Garuda with their free 23kg dive equipment baggage policy and the flight is 3 ½ hours.  We were greeted at the airport and transported across the island in comfort.
  • Air temperature : Lembeh enjoys a tropical rainforest climate – average daily temperature throughout the year is 29 to 31°C. The warmest and driest months are August and September and the wettest months are usually November and December
  • Water temperature :An average of 30°C. A 1-3mm full suit or shorty will suit most.
  • Visa requirement : We purchased our Visa on Arrival at the Jakarta airport for $35USD (or 500,000IDR) The visa for an initial period of 30 days. Make sure you have pristine bank notes if paying in USD or exchanged GBP when you get to Indonesia. The bills must be unmarked and undamaged to be accepted.  The Customs Declaration must be completed online and the provided QR code is shown to the Customs officers.
  • Currency : Indonesian Rupiah(IDR) or US Dollar are accepted most places. We exchanged Sterling for Rupiah at the Jakarta airport for an attractive rate.
  • Electricity :230V with European style (round pin) two-prong plugs. Our room and the camera room had extension leads with UK plugs so no adapter was needed.
  • Internet and Wi-Fi :There is wifi in resort and worked well in our room. We were able to email, WhatsApp and post on social media without issue.

lembeh

Price Guide: Expect from £2499 per person based on two sharing a long house room for 7 nights with 18 Dives – 3 boat dives and night dives are offered daily, and the house reef is available during daylight hours. Full board basis with amazing food and includes flights and transfers. Extras : Indonesian Visa on Arrival, soft drinks and adult beverages, and tips.

Our Advice: Indonesia is an amazing destination.  Dive into Lembeh was the last top on our three-centre trip and we felt it was the perfect ending to an amazing holiday!

Packing tips :

  • Rechargeable fan(s) :If you’ve read any of our recent trip reports we recommend these over and over again. Perfect for warm planes, stuffy transfers and still evenings.  We can’t believe we travelled without them for so many years! Join the fan club and grab one off Amazon… you won’t regret it!
  • Travel laundry line :  We find this comes in handy for any mid holiday hand washing and definitely at the end of the trip to hang SMBs, reels, dive socks etc.
  • Insect repellent :We’ve made a habit of throwing some repellent in our dive bags every trip!

Sunscreen : Don’t forget to protect yourself when you’re in the sun and on the water!!

lembeh

Come Dive with Us!

The Scuba Place designs and builds custom scuba diving holidays.  With personal knowledge and experience diving in many of our destinations, there is no one better to help build your dream dive holiday.  Come Dive with Us!

Call us at 020 3515 9955 or email at reservations@thescubaplace.co.uk

Find us at https://www.thescubaplace.co.uk

Facebook :  https://www.facebook.com/thescubaplace

Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/the.scuba.place/

YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH684OdioYirI-zzdT58Ceg

Flickr : https://www.flickr.com/photos/thescubaplace/albums

The Scuba Genies are John and Mona Spencer-Ades, owners and Directors of ATOL and ABTA bonded Tour Operator and Travel Agency, The Scuba Place Ltd.The Scuba Place design and custom-build exceptional diving holidays around the globe, and have been doing so since 2011. They provide travel services to groups, clubs, buddy-pairs and individuals, and have a wealth of hands on experience when it comes to destinations as they are fanatical divers themselves.John has been diving over 30 years and is a PADI Dive Master, having logged over 2600 dives. Mona started her diving career in 2004, and has logged over 600 dives – she is currently a PADI Rescue Diver.The Scuba Place also provide hosted trips to both new and their favourite destinations each year, providing expert support, under their banner ‘Come Dive with Us!’ Previous trips have been to the Philippines, Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea, Bonaire, Florida, the Maldives, Malta, Bahamas, Thailand, Truk Lagoon, Grenada, St Lucia, Cozumel, Cuba and Egypt. For 2022 and beyond, Palau, Bali, Raja Ampat, Ambon and Coron are in the planning stage.

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Help to Dive into the Future of Scuba Training – Support NovoScuba Today!

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At Scubaverse, we’re always keen to spotlight initiatives that aim to make diving more accessible, inclusive, and innovative. NovoScuba is a bold new training agency with a mission to reshape how people learn to dive—and they’re inviting the global dive community to be part of something special.

What follows is a passionate look at their vision, values, and how you can get involved.

An Exciting Opportunity for Divers and Dreamers to Own a Piece of the Future of Scuba Diving

The world of scuba diving is about to undergo a revolutionary transformation—and you could be a part of it! NovoScuba, an innovative and passionate scuba diving training agency, is on the brink of a final push towards a global launch, that promises to change the way people learn to dive forever.

After two years of hard work, dedication, and a relentless drive to make the sport of scuba diving more accessible to all, NovoScuba is excited to announce that they are inviting enthusiastic divers, ocean lovers, and supporters of innovation to become shareholders in this game-changing movement.

This is your chance to dive into something much bigger than just a hobby. NovoScuba isn’t just offering training programs; they’re offering a stake in the future of the scuba industry. Are you ready to be a part of a global wave of change?

novoscuba

Who We Are: The NovoScuba Movement

NovoScuba isn’t your average diving school. We’re a movement—a movement that strives to make scuba diving more affordable, accessible, and sustainable for everyone. Our team is made up of passionate divers who are not just certified professionals but also deeply connected to the ocean, the environment, and the people who should be able to experience the wonders of the underwater world. We believe diving is about discovery, adventure, and sharing these experiences with others, not just about profit.

For the past two years, we’ve been working tirelessly to develop a new kind of diving training system. One that utilises cutting-edge technology, digital learning platforms, and a unique approach to make scuba diving training available to people from all walks of life. We’ve built this system with love, sweat, and an unwavering belief in our mission to make the world of diving more inclusive.

But here’s the thing—we’re not doing it for the pay check. In fact, none of our team members have taken a salary because we believe in this mission so much. It’s been a labour of love, and now, we’re asking you to be a part of it.

The Big Vision: Taking the Leap

After two years of intense planning, development, and innovation, NovoScuba is finally on the verge of going global. We’re ready to open our doors to the world, but we need your help to make the leap. We’re asking for your support to refine our digital platforms, expand our global reach, and ensure that we can provide top-notch scuba diving training to divers everywhere, no matter where they are or what their budget is.

This is where you come in.

Why We Need Your Help: A Call to Action

We’re closer than ever to achieving our dream, but we need that final push to launch NovoScuba on a global scale. This is not just about funding a business—it’s about being part of something that will redefine the future of scuba training. We need your help to get us over the last few hurdles, and in exchange, we are offering you an incredible opportunity to own a share in this exciting new venture.

For every £250 donation, you’ll receive 1 Class B share in NovoScuba. That’s right—you’re not just helping us out, you’re becoming part of our future. You’ll have a stake in a company that’s poised to revolutionise an entire industry, and as NovoScuba grows, so does your ownership. It’s more than a donation—it’s a chance to join a passionate and innovative team and help shape the future of scuba diving education.

Imagine being able to tell your friends that you didn’t just support a great cause—you’re a shareholder in the future of scuba diving! That’s an experience that goes beyond just funding; it’s about being part of something that matters.

novoscuba

How You Can Get Involved: Dive Right In!

Here’s how you can join the NovoScuba movement and help us make a splash:
https://www.gofundme.com/f/support-novoscuba-shape-the-future-of-scuba-training

Donate: Any amount makes a difference! Whether it’s £10 or £1,000, every contribution helps us reach our goal.

  1. Become a Shareholder: Donate £250 or more, and you’ll receive a Class B share in NovoScuba. This is your chance to own a piece of the future of scuba diving education.
  2. Spread the Word: Even if you can’t contribute financially, you can still help. Share our campaign with your network and help us spread the word about this exciting opportunity.
  3. Get Involved: Dive deeper into the NovoScuba community by following us on social media, joining our online events, and staying connected as we grow. Your involvement will help us reach even more people who are eager to learn about the underwater world.

This isn’t just about helping us; it’s about joining a community of like-minded people who believe in making the world of scuba diving open to everyone. Together, we can change the face of scuba diving education and make it accessible for generations to come.

Why This Matters: Changing Lives, One Dive at a Time

Scuba diving is one of the most awe-inspiring experiences on earth. It’s a portal into a whole new world, full of beauty, mystery, and wonder. But for far too long, this life-changing activity has been out of reach for many people due to the high costs of training.

NovoScuba aims to change that by creating a digital-first training system that is not only more affordable but also more accessible. We’re committed to making diving available to people from all backgrounds, regardless of their income or location. With our innovative training methods, we’re able to offer a platform that meets the needs of today’s divers—whether they’re looking to dive for the first time or advance their skills.

We’re not just creating a business; we’re changing lives. We’re giving people the opportunity to explore the world beneath the waves, connect with the ocean, and discover something new about themselves. And we want you to be a part of that transformation.

The Future of Scuba Diving Starts Now

The diving world is ready for change, and NovoScuba is leading the charge. With your support, we’ll continue to grow and make diving more accessible, affordable, and sustainable for all. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get in on the ground floor of a company that is set to disrupt an entire industry.

If you’ve ever dreamed of being part of something truly transformative, now is the time. Don’t miss out on this opportunity to join the NovoScuba family and help us shape the future of scuba diving education.

Join Us Today—Let’s Make Waves Together!

Your support will help us reach new heights and bring our dream to life. Together, we can make scuba diving education accessible to everyone, no matter their background or budget.

Dive into the future with NovoScuba—join us today!

For more information or to donate, visit https://www.gofundme.com/f/support-novoscuba-shape-the-future-of-scuba-training today. Let’s make diving available for all—and let’s make the world a better place, one dive at a time.

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The Sardine Run Controversy: Are We Undervaluing One of Nature’s Greatest Shows?

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Every year, South Africa’s Sardine Run draws thousands of visitors, eager to witness one of the most spectacular marine wildlife events on the planet. Shoals of sardines stretch for miles, attracting a feeding frenzy of predators, including dolphins, seabirds, whales, and, of course, sharks. But while this natural wonder is a goldmine for ecotourism, some argue that it disrupts marine ecosystems or that shark tourism is an unnecessary risk.

The reality?

The Sardine Run doesn’t just showcase nature’s brilliance, it actively protects it.

A Predator Worth More Alive Than Dead

Sharks are the apex predators of the Sardine Run, and their presence is a major draw for divers, filmmakers, and tourists. But beyond the thrill, there’s a critical financial argument to be made: sharks are far more valuable alive than dead. A report by Oceana found that shark ecotourism generates hundreds of millions of dollars globally, while a single dead shark, caught for its fins or meat, is worth mere pennies in comparison.

According to Pew Trusts, reef sharks in Palau contribute an estimated $1.9 million each over their lifetimes through tourism, whereas a single dead shark fetches only $108 at market. The same economic principle applies to South Africa’s waters, where a live shark supports local businesses, jobs, and conservation efforts through sustainable tourism. The question then becomes: why are some still advocating for the mass culling of these creatures when they’re worth exponentially more alive?

Sharks Are Not the Enemy

Despite their economic value, sharks face persistent threats in South Africa. Misguided fears about shark attacks fuel calls for lethal control measures like drumlines and shark nets; outdated and ecologically damaging practices that indiscriminately kill marine life, including endangered species.

Ironically, these same sharks drive South Africa’s multimillion-dollar dive tourism industry, proving that their survival is inextricably linked to the economy.

By protecting the predators of the Sardine Run, South Africa preserves an ecological spectacle while securing jobs in tourism, hospitality, and marine conservation. It’s ensuring that communities along the coast continue to benefit from this natural event for generations to come.

From Passive Observers to Active Conservationists

“In the end, we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we are taught.”

Baba Dioum’s quote perfectly encapsulates why the Sardine Run and shark conservation efforts are so vital.

“We will conserve only what we love.” Experiencing the Sardine Run first and seeing sharks glide effortlessly through bait balls and feeling the sheer energy of the ocean, creates an emotional connection that turns spectators into advocates. It’s hard not to love something so breathtakingly wild.

“We will love only what we understand.” Sharks have long been vilified, but when people see them in their natural role as apex predators, shaping marine ecosystems, their fear turns into fascination. The more we understand sharks, the more we appreciate their importance in maintaining ocean health.

“We will understand only what we are taught.” Ecotourism, like responsible Sardine Run expeditions, plays a huge role in education. Through firsthand encounters, expert guides, and conservation messaging, people learn that sharks are worth far more alive than dead. This, in turn, supports coastal economies, balancing marine ecosystems, and ensuring the future of this natural phenomenon.

Critics argue that the Sardine Run disrupts natural feeding patterns or stresses marine life due to increased human activity. However, scientific studies suggest that well-managed ecotourism can actually enhance conservation efforts. The presence of responsible tour operators discourages illegal fishing, promotes marine research, and generates funds for conservation initiatives.

Furthermore, ecotourism advocates education and awareness. Anyone who’s ever been lucky enough to experience the sardine run will tell you how incredible it is to witness the greatest shoal on Earth and often leave as passionate champions for ocean conservation. In an age where marine species are vanishing at alarming rates, the Sardine Run may be one of the few large-scale events that turn passive observers into active conservationists.

The Sardine Run is an opportunity to teach, inspire, and create lifelong ocean ambassadors. If we want to protect sharks and the marine environments they support, we need more people to experience, understand, and ultimately, fight for them.

sardine run

My Sardine Run Experience (Still Seems Surreal!)

Experiencing the Sardine Run firsthand in Cintsa on South Africa’s Wild Coast was one of the most incredible events of my life. I swam alongside foraging dusky sharks in focused grace, watched hundreds of common dolphins expertly and intelligently herd sardines into bait balls, observed the honed precision of countless Cape gannets diving, and saw gentle but giant Bryde’s whales effortlessly slicing through the schools.

My friends who stayed longer even had the amazing opportunity to interact with humpback whales. Cintsa is a hidden gem for the Sardine Run, offering an untouched wilderness without the intense competition of other operators. The encounters I had weren’t just breathtaking, they reinforced why this natural event is invaluable for conservation and ecotourism.

I will be forever grateful to Go Dive Mossel Bay for their incredible passion for the ocean and the unforgettable experiences they’ve given me. Their expertise and dedication to marine conservation made my Sardine Run adventure in Cintsa extraordinary. Cintsa is truly a hidden gem for the Sardine Run, offering an intimate, untouched wilderness where the ocean comes alive without the crowds.

The Bottom Line: The Sardine Run is Vital for Conservation in South Africa

The real controversy isn’t whether the Sardine Run is good or bad for conservation. It’s why we aren’t doing more to protect the species that make it so extraordinary.

Instead of fearing sharks or debating their presence, we should be celebrating them as a cornerstone of South Africa’s ecotourism economy.

Every shark in the Sardine Run represents a long-term financial investment, one that benefits local communities far more than a fleeting profit from finning or culling.

So, the next time someone asks whether the Sardine Run is a threat, remind them of this: a dead shark is worth a few dollars, but a live shark fuels an entire industry. South Africa’s future… both ecological and economic… depends on making the right choice.

godive.co.za/keep-fin-alive

Photos: Frogfish Photography

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