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The Best Liveaboard Trip in the Maldives?

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The Scuba Place recently hosted a group of divers in the Maldives.  This trip report is all about their vote for the BEST Maldives Liveaboard and the BEST Itinerary.

It goes without saying that the Maldives is a bucket list destination for scuba divers, and it doesn’t take a genius to work out that the best way to experience the Maldives is by doing a liveaboard safari – from both the quality of diving and value for money.

There are numerous itineraries to choose from and these can differ in many ways, and some are the same but just called something different, which doesn’t really help the first-time Maldives diver make their choice!  We have just arrived back to cold and wet Blighty having spent a week on board the BEST BOAT doing the BEST ITINERARY… and we can’t wait to share why we feel this way.

Firstly, The Best of The Central Atolls is the title of our boat operators’ itinerary. We hit all the best sites of the North and South Malé Atolls, Felidhoo Atoll, and North Ari Atoll.  We’ve done this itinerary a few times and our boat continues to find the best sites including some new ones to add to our list of favourites.

Secondly, Sachika is our number one choice in liveaboards in the Maldives. We have worked with Top Class Cruising, the boat operator and management company for over a decade. Sachika won the ‘Best Liveaboard in the Maldives’ for 2018, 2019 and 2022, and the ‘Best Dive Guide’ for 2022 was awarded to the lead guide on board Sachika. These awards are given by both the Maldivian Port Authority and the annual Maldivian Tourism Awards.

Let’s discuss the BEST boat – your potential home from home for a week.  What sets Sachika apart from many is the accommodation. The cabins are very big, well-appointed, and have proper bathrooms that you can actually get into without turning sideways. Each of the standard cabins has a full-size double bed plus a single bed, or twin beds. Individual air conditioners, well-lit, with functional portholes for great ventilation.  These are supremely comfortable.  It gets bigger and better – a Junior Suite that occupies the whole beam of the boat towards the bows gives a lot more space and luxury for a very small premium – and this cabin even has a small bathtub! And bigger and better still are the three suites on the upper deck, with 4-poster beds, windows that open, and a private staircase down to the salon.

The Salon itself is spacious, and seats 20 guests plus the crew for meals comfortably on tables that can be arranged to accommodate large or small groups. A lounge area, a games cupboard and a small library, plus a charging station (UK 3-pin plugs are standard on board) for all things electrical, an indoor bar and a coffee station make up the rest of this central space. Out the front of the dining room is a covered seating area – the perfect place for a coffee whilst watching the sunrise before the dive briefings.

Towards the stern on the salon deck is a balcony overlooking the platform – the perfect lookout to see nurse sharks, dolphins, manta rays and even whalesharks at night as they come to feed on the plankton attracted by the halogen lights placed over the water.

Towards the stern on the salon deck is a balcony overlooking the platform – the perfect lookout to see nurse sharks, dolphins, manta rays and even whalesharks at night as they come to feed on the plankton attracted by the halogen lights placed over the water.

On the deck above is the main bar and seating area, side access to the suite cabins, and steps up to the sun deck where there are numerous loungers and a covered area with a 6-person jacuzzi.

In case you haven’t been to the Maldives it’s interesting to note that, unlike most other liveaboard destinations, diving isn’t done from the main vessel, but from a dhoni.  The dhoni is a large, purpose-built dive tender that comes alongside to collect you for a dive and returns you to the liveaboard after the dive. Therefore, the boat is quiet – no compressors or tanks banging.  Your kit stays on the dhoni so all you need to carry is your towel and camera.

All in all, Sachika is a pretty special vessel to spend a week on from an accommodation perspective, but we also want to mention the crew, as they are a special part of a dive trip.

The boat is operated and managed by Top Class Cruising, an Italian management company with a long track record and pedigree. Their staff are exceptional – super warm and friendly, fun and engaging, totally professional and expert – everything that you could wish for. On our trip, and this was our 7th week on board Sachika over the last decade, they fixed problems before anyone knew there were problems!  They keep the boat immaculate and provide the nicest little touches (towel sculptures in the cabins, Italian snacks at happy hour, celebration cakes et al) without being asked, and the catering is just superb. The chefs have been sent to Italy for training and wow does it pay off! Expect pasta of the highest calibre, Maldivian curries, baked fish and meats and with plenty of choice at every meal.  This is not a ‘lose-weight’ trip!

So, is this the best boat? We LOVE Sachika, and our clients over the years have nothing other than great things to say, so YES, for us, she is our BEST boat.  There are so many to choose from, so many different characteristics, and of course, so many price categories. When it comes to value for money, comfort, service, expertise, and quality, Sachika is the best that we have been on pretty much anywhere, let alone the Maldives.

So, what about the BEST itinerary?

We have experienced a majority of the itineraries available in the Maldives, and this Best of the Central Atolls is our favourite by a mile and then some.

We found a recent Deep South itinerary to be disappointing from a coral health perspective with loads of coral bleaching and the shark diving felt a bit chaotic, encroaching into the realm of unnecessary danger in our opinion. It is also consideraby more expensive as some of the shark dives are an additional cost. The additional domestic flight puts the cost of a Deep South trip over and above better shark diving destinations such as the Bahamas so this didn’t float our boat – although as effective controls are implemented, I am sure this will become a far safer environment to dive.

The North to South itineraries, again require an additional domestic flight upping the price.  It offers some great diving, but we also experienced some not-so-great diving too.  We felt there wasn’t much that was better on this itinerary than the Central Atolls itinerary. The whalesharks off the back of the boat at night were an unbeatable experience, but singularly so in comparison to our chosen favourite route.

Often called The Best of the Maldives, the itinerary we chose covers the atolls in North Malé, South Malé, Felidhoo, and Ari.

Our BEST liveaboard journey begins in North Malé Atoll, where you’ll have the chance to explore some of the most incredible dive spots, right next to the capital city.  For example, immediately after our check dive at Kurumba, we dropped in at Hulumale Wall, hovering over the sandy bottom that is home to literally hundreds of large sting rays and marble rays. We were happily watching these big creatures when two tiger sharks and a great hammerhead joined us, circling the rays (and us) for a good 10 minutes! There aren’t many better ways to start a dive trip!

From there, we hit Kandooma for more sharks and some beautiful eagle ray interaction, and then the famous night dive with hundreds of nurse sharks hunting at Alimathaa Jetty – if you know, then you know. If you don’t, then this is a bucket list dive that just has to be done!

The dives in the Felidhoo Atoll the next day delivered more grey reef sharks, white tip sharks, black tip sharks and even silvertips too – plus turtles, eagle rays and plentiful reef fish as we dived the thilas at Kuda Rah and Angaga, plus Miyaru Kandu.  South Ari Atoll was our next port of call, where we dived the Digurah Arches, Rangali Madivaru and Hureuelhi Beyru – whalesharks, eagle rays, turtles, schooling reef fish and numerous octopi kept cameras focused and minds blown!

We then started our journey northwards again, staying in the Ari Atoll, diving the wrecks at Kudima and Fesdhoo, plus some more amazing reefs and marine life hotspots, including Fish Head, Maaya Thila and Hohola Thila.  The usual suspects met us at these dive sites – sharks of all species, but especially exciting to see more silvertips, more eagle rays, and mantas within touching distance at Camel Rock, a specific cleaning station frequented by these gentle giants.The usual suspects met us at these dive sites – sharks of all species, but especially exciting to see more silvertips, more eagle rays, and mantas within touching distance at Camel Rock, a specific cleaning station frequented by these gentle giants.

And there was more manta action too on a night dive off the back of the boat at Fesdhoo Lagoon. For this spectacle, the crew put the powerful halogen lights over the water off the back deck, leaving them there while we ate dinner to allow the clouds of plankton to build. Dolphins, reef squid and even a mantis shrimp stopped by to grab a snack, and then a couple of mantas turned up…….time to kit up and jump in!  Dropping onto the sand at approximately 10m depth, everyone formed into a circle, and pointing their torches toward the surface, creating a ‘cage’ of light beams, giving the plankton a cylinder of light from the seabed to the surface – a dining table for the mantas!

Four of five of these majestic beauties swooped and soared through the light column, barrel rolling and somersaulting whilst taking huge mouthfuls of plankton, and this spectacle lasted for an hour! Getting out of the water was a real struggle – we all wanted to stay in and wait for more mantas to arrive!

And then finally, and sadly, we made our way back to North Male Atoll for one last dive at Bathala Thila, and as well as the usual shark sightings, we spent time looking for smaller critters on the reef, finding a sizeable frogfish, numerous nudibranchs and a carpet of anemones covering the whole reeftop – a beautiful way to end a stunning week.

And it isn’t all about diving either! Almost daily excursions off the boat to a desert island or sandbar for sunset cocktails and happy hour keep your feet firmly grounded, and the traditional beach barbecue at night on a private island is as always, spectacular – gourmet food, the skies lit with stars, tiki torches on the beach and the company of your dive buddies is a great way to spend an evening. Add into this mix of non-diving activities unlimited snorkelling and stand-up paddle-boarding and you get an idea of how the surface intervals can be spent.

After the very last dive, the crew took our kit, washed it and put it out to dry for us, and we were left to wine and dine, reflect on an amazing week, hop in and out of the jacuzzi and grab a cocktail or two – the usual last night activities.

Saying goodbye is always a sad event on these trips – the crew are so good they become like family. You know you are going to miss the catering and service – having your omelettes put in front of you before you ask for them – but it is far more than that.  And that is why we go back, almost annually.

So, is this the BEST boat and the BEST itinerary?  We think so.  If you want immense marine life interactions, minimal sailing times, off-boat activities and the very best dive sites in the Maldives, then this itinerary takes some beating. If you want really great service, large comfortable cabins, great food AND phenomenal diving, then the combination of this itinerary and Sachika will give you that.

Our next trip? October 2024, with prices from £2795 including flights, Nitrox, all taxes and ATOL Protection.  Check out the brochure and itinerary here.

Key Facts :

  • Getting there : Our flights were with Emirates flying from Heathrow to Male via Dubai. We left London in the early evening arriving in Dubai in the early hours of the morning after a 7-hour flight. A 2-hour layover before a quick 4 hour flight to Male.  We were greeted by staff from Sachika and settled in the food court to complete paperwork and await the arrival of a few more passengers.  Then out of the airport, across the street and on to the dhoni for a quick 10-minute ride to the liveaboard.  Our flight home left Male just after 9am, so we were up and on our way to the airport early, arriving back to Heathrow around 19.00 making for a very easy travel day.  Alternate airports and flights are readily available.
  • Air temperature : Tropical – average daily temperature throughout the year is 24 to 33°C. The wet season is linked to the southwest monsoon and can range from April to October.
  • Water temperature : 26-30°C. A 1-3mm full suit or shorty will suit most.
  • Visa requirement : UK passport holders are permitted to enter the Maldives without a visa for an initial period of 30 days.
  • Immigration and health protocols : An online form at https://travel.immigration.gov.mv/ is required prior to arriving and departing the Maldives.
  • Currency : US Dollar are accepted on the liveaboard for extras. Cash or credit card with a 4% fee.
  • Electricity : Sachika has every type of adapter you could need and provides a charging station in the dining area. The standard plugs are UK 3-pin style.
  • Internet and Wi-Fi : There is wifi available for a charge for the week it worked well in our room on deck. There are a few spots without coverage, but that usually occurred while we were crossing at night. 

Price Guide: For 2024 expect from £2795 per person based on two sharing a standard cabin for 7 nights with flights, NITROX and 17 scheduled dives, and Maldivian taxes included.  2 or 3 extra dives were offered at a reasonable fee.  Full board including soft drinks is also included.  You’re not likely to find another Maldives liveaboard at this price point that includes NITROX, soft drinks and taxes.

Our Advice: Pick the BEST boat – Sachika and the BEST itinerary – The Best of the Central Atolls.  You won’t be disappointed!  Get in touch and let us help you design your dream diving holiday to the Maldives!

Packing tips :

  • Rechargeable fan(s) : If you’ve read any of our recent trip reports we recommend these over and over again. We can’t believe we travelled without them for so many years! Join the fan club and grab one off Amazon… you won’t regret it!
  • Microfibre towel or poncho : large beach towels are provided but a few divers had microfibre towels that worked a treat!  Sachika had branded ponchos for sale and some from our group grabbed them and loved them.

The Scuba Place designs and builds custom scuba diving holidays.  With personal knowledge and experience diving in many of our destinations, there is no one better to help build your dream dive holiday.  Come Dive with Us!

Call us at 020 3515 9955 or email at reservations@thescubaplace.co.uk

Find us at https://www.thescubaplace.co.uk

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Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 3: The Mighty Thistlegorm

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red sea

Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…

Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.

Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.

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Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.

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We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.

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Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.

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The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.

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The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.

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To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:

Email: dive@scubatravel.com

Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590

www.scubatravel.com

Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red

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Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 2: Wall to Wall Wrecks

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red sea

Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…

The second day’s diving was a day full of wreck diving at Abu Nuhas, which included the Chrisoula K, Carnatic, and Ghiannis D. The first dive of the day was onto the Chrisoula K, also known as the wreck of tiles. The 98m vessel remains largely intact where she was loaded with tiles which can be seen throughout the hold. The stern sits at 26m and the bow just below the surface. One of the highlights of the wreck is heading inside and seeing the workroom where the machinery used for cutting the tiles are perfectly intact. The bow provided some relaxing scenery as the bright sunlight highlighted the colours of the soft coral reef and the many reef fish.

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Following breakfast, we then headed to the next wreck, which was the Carnatic. The Carnatic is an 89.9m sail steamer vessel that was built in Britain back in 1862. She ran aground on the reef back in 1869 and remains at 27m. At the time, she was carrying a range of items, including 40,000 sterling in gold. An impressive wreck where much of the superstructure remains, and the two large masts lay on the seafloor. The wooden ribs of the hull provide structures for lots of soft corals, and into the stern section, the light beams through, bouncing off the large shoals of glass fish that can be found using the structure as shelter from the larger predators that are found outside of the wreck.

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The final wreck at Abu Nuhas was the Ghiannis D, originally called ‘Shoyo Maru,’ which was 99.5m long and built in Japan back in 1969 before becoming a Greek-registered cargo ship in 1980. The ship then ran aground on the reef on April 19th, 1983, and now sits at the bottom at a depth of 27m. Heading down the line, the stern of the ship remains in good condition compared to the rest of the hull. The highlight of the wreck, though, is heading into the stern section and down the flights of stairs to enter the engine room, which remains in good condition and is definitely worth exploring. After exploring the interior section of the ship, we then headed over to see the rest of the superstructure, where it’s particularly interesting to see the large table corals that have grown at the bow relatively quickly considering the date the ship sank. After surfacing and enjoying some afternoon snacks, we made sure everything was strapped down and secured as we would be heading north and crossing the Gulf of Suez, where the winds were still creating plenty of chop.

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The next morning, it was a short hop to Ras Mohammed Nature Reserve for the next couple of days of diving. The 6am wake-up call came along with the briefing for the first site we would be diving, which was Shark & Yolanda. The low current conditions allowed us to start the dive at Anemone City, where we would drift along the steep, coral-filled wall. These dives involved drifts, as mooring in Ras Mohammed wasn’t allowed to protect the reefs. As a dive site, Shark & Yolanda is well-known and historically had a lot of sharks, but unfortunately not so many in recent years, especially not so early in the season. However, there was always a chance when looking out into the blue.

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The gentle drift took us along the steep walls of the site, with plenty of anemone fish to be seen and a huge variety of corals. It wasn’t long into the dive before we were accompanied by a hawksbill turtle, who drifted with us between the two atolls before parting ways. Between the two reefs, the shallow patch with parts of coral heads surrounded by sand provided the chance to see a few blue-spotted stingrays that were mainly resting underneath the corals and are always a pleasure to see. With this being the morning dive, the early sunlight lit up the walls, providing tranquil moments. Looking out into the blue, there was very little to be seen, but a small shoal of batfish shimmering underneath the sunlight was a moment to capture as we watched them swim by as they watched us.

red sea

Towards the end of the dive, we stopped at the wreck of the Jolanda where the seafloor was scattered with toilets from the containers it was carrying. This provided a unique site to make a safety stop, which was also accompanied by a large barracuda slowly swimming by, along with a hawksbill turtle calmly swimming over the reef as the sun rays danced in the distance.

For the next dive, we headed north to the Strait of Tiran to explore the reefs situated between Tiran Island and Sharm El Sheik, which were named after the British divers who had found them. We started on Jackson before heading to Gordons Reef, where we also did the night dive. All the atolls at these sites provided stunning, bustling coral reefs close to the surface and steep walls to swim along, which always provided the opportunity to keep an eye out for some of the larger species that can be seen in the blue. Midwater around Jackson Reef was filled with red-toothed triggerfish and shoals of banner fish, which at times were so dense that you couldn’t see into the blue. Moments went by peacefully as we enjoyed the slow drift above the reef, watching these shoals swim around under the mid-afternoon sun.

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The night dive at Gordon’s Reef was mainly among the stacks of corals surrounded by sand, which was great to explore under the darkness. After some time circling the corals, we came across what we were really hoping to find, and that was an octopus hunting on the reef. We spent the majority of the dive just watching it crawl among the reef, blending into its changing surroundings through changes in colour and skin texture. It’s always so fascinating and captivating to watch these incredibly intelligent animals, in awe of their ability to carry out these physical changes to perfectly blend into the reef. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the boat to enjoy a well-deserved tasty dinner prepared by the talented chefs onboard.

Check in for the 3rd and final part of this series from Jake tomorrow!

To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:

Email: dive@scubatravel.com

Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590

www.scubatravel.com

Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red

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Experience the Red Sea in May with Bella Eriny Liveaboard! As the weather warms up, there’s no better time to dive into the crystal clear waters of the Red Sea. Join us on Bella Eriny, your premier choice for Red Sea liveaboards, this May for an unforgettable underwater adventure. Explore vibrant marine life and stunning coral reefs Enjoy comfortable accommodation in our spacious cabins Savor delicious meals prepared by our onboard chef Benefit from the expertise of our professional dive guides Visit our website for more information and to secure your spot: www.scubatravel.com/BellaEriny or call 01483 411590 More Less

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