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Mat’s Philippines Trip 2015: Part 3

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Read Part 1 here. Read Part 2 here.

Good times on ‘Bad Easter’

It was 4AM, we were in the back of a minivan taxi and we had been on the road for an hour already. The bumpy ride and enthusiastic air conditioning made a return to slumber impossible for me; as I sat next to a snoozing girlfriend my mind drifted to a remark that I had read back in England about our next destination. Some 500 years ago when the Spaniards first landed on a small island that lies north of Cebu they were stranded on the rocks and eaten alive by hordes of mosquitos- they sensibly decided to call the place Malapascua as it literally translates as ‘Bad Easter’.  I hoped that times had since changed and that the thousands of divers that visit the tiny (just 2 miles long in fact) island each year are testament to the more comfortable conditions that can be found there… plus Easter was the previous weekend so I was sure we would be fine.

Having reached Malapascua the ‘adventurous’ way on two public boats from Leyte, we were very much ready for some well deserved R&R. Our time at Sogod Bay was great but we hoped for a splash of luxury for our next week.  Arriving on the western side of the island we jumped on the back of two obliging motorcycle taxi’s, clutched onto our bags and whizzed through the sandy back roads toward Bounty beach. I wasn’t overly impressed with the surroundings that the public boat moored up on but felt confident that Bounty Beach would live up to it’s reputation as an idyllic picture postcard destination.

 

Philippines

Ocean Vida Resort

Philippines

Happy Hour!

Philippines

Beautiful waters of Bounty Beach

We arrived at Ocean Vida from the back roads; I say roads but actually Malapascua has no cars and so these roads are better described as dirt tracks. Our first look at Bounty Beach did not disappoint- soft white sand beneath our tired feet and sparkling blue water before our eyes.  Within minutes we were sat in the intimate open air restaurant with a welcome drink as our bags were taken to our room. Julz is the resort manager and has such a warm and friendly manner – she’s perfect for the job and made us feel welcome right away. Ollie is the dive centre manager and having finished our complimentary fruit juice we strolled next door to meet him and confirm our diving schedule. As luck would have it the afternoon boat was going out for a single dive later that day. It turned out to be an easy sandy bottom affair that did produce a couple of bold little cuttlefish, scuttling hermit crabs and a school of catfish hiding in a small wreck of some kind – nothing incredible but a pleasant dive nonetheless. We got back just in time for happy hour; every 4-6pm cocktails are two for the price of one and at just 150 pesos (£2.30 approx.) our rounds were only coming to £10…well why wouldn’t you order four each at that price? Well one very good reason is that our dives the following day were scheduled for 6am and I for one really didn’t fancy getting up so early to jump on a dive boat with a sore head.

Our alarm buzzed at 05:45…a whole ten minutes earlier than it needed to be buzzing for a 06:00 departure if you ask me, but then I’m reminded that I don’t have contact lenses to put in and hair to tie up, and don’t I have a camera to be prepping… all solid points from Samantha.  We rubbed our eyes and made our way to the dive centre just a few paces from our balcony – the sun made it’s appearance shortly after and before long we were on our way to the site that has put Malapascua on the diving map; Monad Shoal.

Each morning arguably one of the world’s most graceful sharks with its elegant ribbon like tail ventures into the shallower waters at Monad Shoal. Rising from depths that can reach 1600ft the large dark eyes of the Thresher shark can be seen emerging through a thermocline at a more tolerable diving depth of just 100ft. It’s here where divers hover calmly at the edge of a wall and patiently wait for close encounters with these bizarre looking animals.  The dive is spent doing just that – waiting rather than diving, but when a 4m shark cruises within just a few feet of your mask it really is worth the wait. We dived Monad Shoal on three separate occasions and had encounters every time- it’s fair to say that if seeing Thresher sharks is on your bucket list then this has to be the best place in the world to as good as guarantee a sighting.

Philippines

Philippines

Close encounters with the graceful Thresher sharks

The second morning at Malapascua was sublime. We took our chances at Kimud Shoal; close to Monad it is here that another species of shark is occasionally spotted, especially during the month of April. We didn’t hold out much of a hope; I knew for a fact that a number of Divemasters that had been working on the island and dived Kimud more than a dozen times this month had yet to see this most unusual looking shark. We descend and within seconds a Manta Ray swoops past – a good omen?  Venturing away from the security of the wall behind us we hover in the blue – all around us and beneath us, nothing but blue water.  The sharks are out there somewhere.  After 20 minutes of emptiness we make our way back towards the boat and then she emerged – our first Hammerhead sighting. It was brief… nothing more than a glimpse, but then minutes later two more ‘hammers’ swim by, just as fleeting and every bit as satisfying. We were the only people on the boat to see them and fellow divers struggled to hide their envy. As we enjoyed our breakfast back on land with views of the sparkling morning sunshine as it danced atop the calm blue sea we gushed over how lucky we had been; after all it’s not often that you see Thresher Sharks, Manta Rays and Hammerheads all before you’ve had your cornflakes.

Naughty Night Dives & The White Tips of Gato

Mandarin fish are very photogenic, that’s undeniable; with their frilly fins and colourful markings they are quite a pretty fish indeed. Malapascua is one of a few destinations in the Philippines where you can head out to sea at dusk, settle down in just the right spot and much like the Thresher dive… sit and wait. Now I don’t often feel the cold, but when I opted to wear only my ‘rashy’ (I’ve never been fond of wetsuits) in water that was closer to 26 degrees than 27 I soon regretted the decision as we spent a full 30 minutes without moving whatsoever. Beneath us in the maze like hard corals were the Mandarin fish we had come out to see – you know… doing it. That’s right. For those in the know this comes as no surprise as this is what ‘the Mandarin Fish dive’ is all about. We sit… we wait… and if we’re looking in the right spot, a male will get lucky with a larger female and they will float harmoniously together, drifting in an upward fashion as though they are being beamed up by an uncontrollable force. Almost as soon as this behaviour begins, it is over and we cast our eyes to another patch of coral to snoop on the next unsuspecting pair.  They were lovely to see and I’m glad I ticked the box, but the 30 minutes afterwards spent finding sea horses, cuttlefish and a particularly active octopus (not to mention warming up) were more enjoyable I’d say; maybe I’m just not the ‘peeping Tom’ sort.

I had heard that you go to Malapascua for the Threshers but you leave remembering Gato Island.  Expectations were set reasonably high as that simple sentence remained etched in my mind as we took to the water to experience it for ourselves. A 45 minute boat ride away from Bounty Beach is a solitary rocky outcrop that divers have come to call Gato. Compared to the sandy bottom dive on our first day this was a heavenly playground of boulders, swim-thru’s and corals all with secrets to uncover.  Floating amongst one coral bommie was a stunning pair of Ornate Ghost pipefish; in the distance were mating cuttlefish, circling above were filter feeding mackerel with their distinctive and amusing wide gape…but we were here for the main attraction.  As the current gently pushed us along a swim thru we were greeted by not one or two but three circling white tip sharks. We exit the tunnel and make our way into another cluster of enclosed boulders to find three more white tips cruising and circling with a calm and controlled presence; they clearly rule the roost at Gato.  The last 10 minutes of the dive was spent playing in the shallows where the light pierced the surface of the water and we swam in between the boulders of the island. I love a varied dive site and Gato Island provides enough variety to keep most divers entertained; critters, sharks and intriguing topography – a ‘must do’ dive for anyone visiting Malapascua.

Philippines

Philippines

White-Tip sharks of Gato Island can be seen in the swim-thrus

An excursion to Sambawan Island

The local dives within easy reach of Bounty Beach are nothing spectacular – I’ve made no secret of that fact. Diving at Malapascua is all about the Thresher sharks and Gato Island. When weather conditions allow however, it’s possible to venture further North to Sambawan Island; a small and beautiful place made up of three islets. Local Filipinos visit Sambawan during the holiday periods and at weekends to enjoy the sand and the snorkelling – the dive sites around the island have an abundance of hard and soft corals and more fish life than at our Malapascua base. It takes around 3 hours to get there and the day begins with a Thresher dive at Monad shoal. The glorious weather ensured that the relatively long journey by boat was pleasant and we enjoyed a BBQ feast on arrival.  Uncharacteristically the viz was quite poor (can’t be helped) and I only have one photo of my buddy with a turtle to show for the day, but it was clear to see that the dive sites here are definitely worth a visit; especially if like me you enjoy spending the day at sea.

Philippines

Philippines

Above and below Sambawan Island

Our week at Malapascua delivered everything that we hoped for and more. In just six days we were able to add three more species of shark to our Philippines sightings – Whale sharks, Threshers sharks, Hammerheads and White Tips if you’re keeping count. We watched the beautiful Mandarin fish as it got down and dirty in front of a baying crowd of camera laden voyeurs. We enjoyed sunrises on the boat and sunsets from our balcony; great food, tasty cocktails, and relaxing massages…but we still had a few more days left before our return to England loomed (I feel that gloomed is more accurate but I’m not convinced it’s a word!)  Our final stretch would take us to Moalboal and whilst we were excited to be off somewhere new, we were equally saddened to be leaving the island paradise of Malapascua; not such a ‘Bad Easter’ these days that’s for sure…

To be concluded!

Mat is a travel consultant for Dive Worldwide.

Discuss this article in the Scubaverse Forum.

 

Mat Reeve is a photographer, travel writer and all round adventurer. Currently a consultant at UK-based tour operator Dive Worldwide, Mat is a qualified Divemaster, Martial Arts instructor and fitness trainer. Mat has a huge passion for exploring and experiencing all that life has to offer. He has travelled more than 3000 miles throughout Europe by boat, train and road without spending a single penny while raising money for a number of charities. Mat has camped for weeks in the wilds of Africa. He has paddled the treacherous waters of the Zambezi amid crocodiles and hippos, and has led divers on incredible underwater excursions, introducing them to apex predators including bull sharks without the protection of a cage. The Sardine Run in South Africa remains his most exhilarating experience to date and included incredibly close encounters with enormous humpback whales, super-pods of dolphins, and a feisty group of dusky sharks at feeding time. Over the years Matt has been charged by a hippo, chased by a lion, stalked by a shark, and stung by a tiny but painful Portuguese Man of War. A hugely passionate animal and nature enthusiast, Mat likes to get as close to the action as possible.

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Dive into Adventure: Limited Space Available for January Socorro Liveaboard Trip with Oyster Diving

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Socorro Giant Mantas, Sharks and Dolphins – 8-16th January 2025

Oyster Diving is offering an unforgettable opportunity to experience one of the world’s most extraordinary dive destinations – Socorro Island. With only one male space left for this January’s liveaboard adventure, divers are invited to join an exclusive trip to explore the waters of Socorro, renowned for its remarkable marine life and incredible dive experiences.

Unmatched Diving in Socorro

Socorro is home to a unique population of giant oceanic mantas that actively seek interaction with divers and snorkelers, making it one of the best places in the world to encounter these majestic creatures. But the adventure doesn’t stop there – the waters surrounding Socorro are also teeming with marine life, including schooling hammerheads and silky sharks, over 10 other species of sharks, playful bottlenose dolphins that love to interact with divers, large schools of pelagic fish, and, during the season, humpback whales.

Luxury Aboard the Nautilus Belle Amie

Diving in such an extraordinary location is made even more special by the Nautilus Belle Amie. Launched in 2015, this modern, spacious liveaboard yacht is designed with divers in mind, ensuring comfort and luxury throughout the trip. The boat offers various suite options, including twin rooms and superior double suites, all with the ambiance of a boutique hotel. Divers will spend 8 days aboard the Belle Amie, with all meals, guided dives, and soft drinks included.

Pricing and Availability

This exclusive Socorro liveaboard trip is available for the following prices:

  • Twin Room (2 people sharing a Stateroom): £3360 per person
  • Superior Double Suite (2 people sharing): £3860 per person

Both prices include Socorro Island fees. A port fee of $35 is payable upon arrival.

Additional Costs:

  • Return economy flights: Approx. £1,000 – £1,300 per person (prices confirmed prior to booking)
  • One night hotel B&B accommodation before the liveaboard: Approx. £100 per person

Book Now

With only one spot left, this opportunity to explore Socorro’s spectacular underwater world is sure to fill up fast. Interested divers are encouraged to get in touch with Oyster Diving Holidays to secure their place today.

For more information and bookings, please contact:

Oyster Diving Holidays
Phone: 0800 699 0243
Email: info@oysterdiving.com

Don’t miss your chance to dive with mantas, sharks, dolphins, and humpbacks in one of the world’s most pristine marine environments!

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Marine Life & Conservation

12 Days of Zero-Waste Fish-mas

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marine conservation society

This holiday period, the Marine Conservation Society, the UK’s leading ocean membership charity, invites you to make some simple changes to eating fish this Christmas to help our seas.

Dr Kenneth Bodles, Head of Fisheries and Aquaculture at the Marine Conservation Society, said, “During the festive season, our consumption increases, but so does waste. Sustainability isn’t just about where food comes from – it’s also about how you use it. By reducing waste and making the most out of your seafood, you’re not only taking steps to be more ocean-friendly, but can also help to cut costs during what is often one of the most expensive times of the year”.

The Marine Conservation Society has compiled twelve tips on how to consume seafood sustainably with zero-waste this Christmas:

Buy whole fish instead of fillets

Instead of fillets, consider buying whole fish such as salmon, hake, or lemon sole. By adopting a “nose to tail” approach with cooking, whole-baked fish not only feeds a crowd, but also helps to minimise waste and maximise sustainability by using up every part of the animal, including bones, skin, and fat.

Make fish stock

Leftover fish bones or shells can be put to good use by boiling them to make a nourishing fish stock or bisque. This can be frozen and preserved for later use and makes for a flavourful base in a soup.

Make your own fish pâté

Avoid waste by turning leftover fish, such as smoked mackerel or salmon, into a delicious pâté by blending with cream cheese and lemon. Perfect when paired with crackers.

The sustainability of salmon and mackerel varies depending on where and how it is caught or farmed. For more information on green-rated options, check the charity’s Good Fish Guide.

Buy frozen

By purchasing seafood that is frozen or vacuum-packed, this helps to reduce waste by extending the shelf life of your food.

Fish pie

If you’re wondering what to do with leftover cooked fish, why not opt for a classic fish pie with mashed potatoes, leeks, and a cheesy sauce? A sure crowd pleaser on Boxing Day.

Use the head

Don’t forget the fish head! The meat is incredibly tender and flavourful. The charity recommends a cod’s head curry or recreating Fallow’s renowned cod’s head in siracha butter.

By stretching your ingredients further, not only is this a more sustainable way to enjoy seafood, but also cost-effective by repurposing leftovers and cooking creatively.

Boxing Day brunch

Mix leftover kippers or smoked salmon with scrambled eggs for a tasty, zero-waste, Boxing Day brunch.

For best choice, make sure you buy kippers, or herring, from the North Sea and the North Irish Sea.

Zero-waste storage

A top tip from the Marine Conservation Society to avoid waste is freezing fish offcuts to save for future use.

Crisp up the skin

Even leftover fish skin can be turned into a quick savoury snack by crisping it up in an air fryer with a little olive oil and salt.

Anchovies two ways

Leftover anchovies can either be blended with butter to make a delicious anchovy butter or tossed into pasta for a hit of umami flavour.

The charity recommends opting for anchovies caught in the Bay of Biscay for best choice.

Fishcakes

For an easy, zero-waste meal, leftover seafood trimmings can be mixed with mash and fried in breadcrumbs to make fishcakes.

Pickled mussels

Try pickling mussels in 1:1 vinegar and water, with a dash of sugar for a sustainable, zero-waste snack that can be enjoyed well beyond the festive season.

Mussels farmed in the UK are a seafood superhero. Grown using low-impact methods and harvested by hand, they get all the food they need from the sea around them. This makes them one of the most sustainable, ocean-friendly, and cost-effective seafood options.

Players of People’s Postcode Lottery have raised £6.6M towards the Marine Conservation Society’s vital work in making seafood more sustainable.

Laura Chow, Head of Charities at People’s Postcode Lottery, said: “Fish is a festive favourite for many, but making sustainable choices when it comes to how we buy and eat seafood makes all the difference for our ocean. Support from players of People’s Postcode Lottery has helped the Marine Conservation Society further its sustainable seafood work, so that we can all enjoy healthier, better protected seas.”

The Marine Conservation Society encourages you to make sustainable seafood choices a year-round habit, not just for Christmas. To check how sustainable the seafood on your plate is, you can visit the charity’s Good Fish Guide. The Guide helps consumers and businesses identify the most sustainable seafood using a simple traffic light system, based on where and how species are caught or farmed. Green is the best choice, amber means improvements are needed, and red indicates fish to avoid buying.

Zero-waste gift idea

Why not embrace a zero-waste Christmas by gifting a membership to support marine conservation? It’s a meaningful, low-waste gift that helps protect our ocean for generations to come. Memberships start from as little as £5 a month – the price of a sandwich and drink from your local coffee shop.

Find the latest sustainable seafood advice for wild-caught and farmed seafood on the Good Fish Guide, downloadable to your phone from www.mcsuk.org/goodfishguide.

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