Travel Stories
Key Largo – Scuba, Sunsets, and More
Photos by Hugh Hudson
Shallow reefs, deep and shallow wrecks, sanctuary protected marine life and year round diving. Okay, no shore diving to speak of, but there are plenty of good reasons that Key Largo is a popular destination for divers from across the country and around the world. It is ideal for beginners with reefs that are 30-40 feet in depth and advanced and technical divers can explore deeper wrecks like the 510-foot USS Spiegel Grove to the extent that their training allows.
Key Largo – known outside the dive community for the classic Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall film (not to mention the later song by Bertie Higgins) – is the first populated town as you leave the Florida mainland peninsula and make your way south to Key West and the southernmost point in the United States. Key Largo is also home to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the first underwater park established in the U.S., and the iconic, much-photographed Christ of the Abyss statue sits in only 25 feet of water at a site called Dry Rocks. It is, however, the sheer multitude of dive sites and dive operations that makes Key Largo a favored spot. If you want extra details about the geological underpinning of Key Largo’s diving, check out http://www.fla-keys.com/keylargo/keylargodivewonderland.cfm, but for the sake of this post, let’s focus on the more than 50 regularly visited sites that are available within a 40-minute boat ride. With the third largest barrier reef in the world, the sites are a mix of natural reefs and numerous genuine wrecks in scattered debris fields as well as ships deployed as artificial reefs. The older, genuine wrecks have little structure remaining as is to be expected in warm salt water, but they provide great habitats for creatures large and small.
Everyone loves the turtles that live on Key Largo reefs
While you do not, in general, have the profusion of colorful corals and sponges of many places in the Caribbean, abundant and healthy marine life is to be seen within moments of slipping underwater. “The usual suspects” will be multiple varieties of snapper, parrotfish (including the beautiful midnight variety), barracuda, angelfish, butterfly fish, trumpetfish, grunts, hog fish, file fish, lizardfish, squirrelfish, trunkfish, damselfish, eels, southern stingrays, turtles, nurse sharks, groupers, (including goliaths), sea cucumbers, shrimp, and lobsters. A hundred other species could be named and seeing dolphins on the ride to or from the sites is not unusual, nor is the appearance of manatees in the canals. Snapper Ledge gets its name from the fact that schools of fish are often so dense that they obscure sections of the reef. For those who happen to be in the water at the right time and location, there are occasional visits from a cruising hammerhead, a manta ray, or even a whale shark, and technical divers who go to the really deep wrecks such as the Northern Lights will often encounter bull sharks.
The growth on the USS Spiegel Grove, the 510-foot ship off Key Largo can be seen as this scrawled file fish swims by
Although the reliability of Key Largo weather can be impacted by either storms or systems that bring in high winds and the water temperature does drop to around 70 degrees in the winter months, charters go out every day of the year, conditions permitting. Granted, there is an element of amusement when locals hesitate to dive with air and in water with a temperature in the low 70s, while visitors escaping snow and ice are happy with the balmy weather. However, when it is chilly, appropriate protection with layering is in order for the boat ride. March through mid-May usually brings air temperature in the 80s and the water moving up to 75+ degrees, and by the end of May through late September, hot is the word. Hats, sunscreen, and hydration are all important. October is a toss-up with heat that usually comes down in November.
Visibility and currents on the deep wrecks will often vary more than on the reefs and a normal day for the reefs will be 50-60 feet of visibility and mild current, with frequent days of 70-100 feet. For those who appreciate technology, there is a NOAA tower mounted at Molasses Reef and you can access it for the latest conditions. (http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=mlrf1)
Choosing among approximately two dozen dive centers in Key Largo might be the difficult part, and that very much becomes a personal choice. Some shops specialize in a maximum of six passengers, others have the 14 passenger boats, and several operators have the large boats that carry between 30 and 42 passengers. The larger operators may have two different size boats that can be a factor if traveling with a group of mixed levels. Many of the dive shops have their own dock and others have a storefront with their boat at a nearby marina. There are resorts that have the complete package of lodging, on-site dive center, and restaurant. Individual dive centers may well have discount arrangements with hotel and restaurants, so check that when you either call a dive shop or look at a web site.
Southern stingrays are seen more commonly on the reefs, than are eagle and lemon rays
There are three particular things to know about dive centers in Key Largo. The first is a regional Coast Guard requirement for a mate to remain on board with the captain any time there are more than six customers. This means that unlike in most other places, dive centers, in general, do not put a dive master into the water with divers because that would mean having two dive masters per trip which would then increase the per dive cost. Some dive centers have chosen to either absorb that cost or pass it on, but if you want a guide, you will need to ask the direct question. Hiring a guide will be an additional charge and also leads to the next item. The scuba community standard policy is that if a diver has not been in the water for a year, the shop could very well require the diver to have a guide for the first trip and this will be an additional cost. If it has been two or more years since last diving there may be a need for a refresher course. The third item is for those who wish to dive the deep wrecks of the Bibb, Duane, and USS Spiegel Grove. These are advanced dives with the community standard of showing proof of advanced certification, documented wreck and deep experience, or to be in the company of a guide in order to do the dive. Even though you can dive a small part of the Spiegel at approximately 65 feet, most of the ship is at 80 feet or below and current can be challenging. Descending onto the 510-foot long ship is an awesome experience, but it is not for novices. While the Bibb and Duane are not as large, they are older artificial reefs with significant marine growth.
Porcupine puffers are camera shy, but seen fairly often on the reefs
For planning purposes, Key Largo is a little over an hour from Miami International Airport during non-peak traffic time and Fort Lauderdale Airport is twenty minutes further north. The Florida Turnpike (toll road) is the most direct route and it ends in Florida City/Homestead as you pick up Highway 1 South, also known as the Overseas Highway. This is a two-lane road with only a couple of passing zones, so relax and watch for egrets, ospreys, herons, and other water fowl along the way.
Once you arrive in Key Largo, local directions tend to be given as Ocean Side or Bay Side and by Mile Marker rather than using street names. As you drive south, the Atlantic Ocean is to your left (east) and Florida Bay to your right (west). The sunset restaurants are bay-side, but the dive sites are ocean-side and therefore about ten minutes less of a boat ride if the dive center you choose is located ocean-side.
Rubble around the reefs are favorite habitats for yellow head jawfish
If there is one thing that rivals the number of dive centers in Key Largo, that would be restaurants and bars. As you can imagine, there is a lot of outdoor dining, and casual is most assuredly the preferred attire. Claims to have the best conch fritters and key lime pie abound and while American cuisine and fresh seafood are what you find the most, you can get Italian, Mexican, Thai, and one or two others. Hog fish and lion fish might be on the menu – both are firm white fish that you won’t find offered in too many places and both are highly recommended.
Adult Goliath Grouper on Key Largo reef. (All photos from Hugh Hudson)
For your non-diving days, or if you have non-divers with you, other watersports are plentiful and the Wild Bird Center is a fun place to visit. A short trip south will take you to the Theater of the Sea or to the History of Diving Museum with its rich displays of 4,000 years of man’s attempts to temporarily exist beneath the waves. A short trip back north to Florida City and Homestead puts you at the doorstep of the Everglades and Biscayne National Parks, the Coral Castle, and the Monkey Jungle. In fact, if hotel rooms are hard to find in Key Largo, Florida City and Homestead provide an easy alternative. If you want to take the Overseas Highway all the way south passing through Islamorada, Marathon, over the much-filmed Seven Mile Bridge and arriving in Key West, plan a full two hours. The scenic two-lane road has few places to pass.
Schools of fish such as these grunts are a common sight on reefs
Warm breezes, palm fronds rustling, tropical blossoms, parrots that streak overhead top side, with teeming marine life below. This is the Key Largo that you may not have visited for a while, or perhaps have never come to. It is a slice of paradise right here in the United States, and for those 300-plus days a year when Mother Nature isn’t being capricious, a healthy underwater world with the tiniest shrimp up to 600-pound goliath groupers awaits you.
An excellent web site for more information is http://www.fla-keys.com/keylargo
The Maltese island of Gozo lies at the heart of the Mediterranean and, despite its diminutive size, it punches well above its weight as a world-class diving destination. So, what is it that’s so magical about Gozo and the surrounding sea that, like the bioluminescent light of an angler fish, draws in divers from far and wide?
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Standing on the bastions of the UNESCO-rated medieval citadel at the centre of this tiny tranquil idyll, you can see nearly 50km of enticing curvaceous coastline circumscribing this golden island. Crystal-clear waters lap at Gozo’s shore which boasts a wealth of dive sites in every direction – the colours shift smoothly from a transparent jade over white sand to a rich sapphire blue over the deeps beyond, and all promise spectacular visibility. Raise your eyes from the warm azure water, and you’ll spot Gozo’s sister Comino, a short boat ride away, with yet more underwater wonders.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
It’s no wonder that the ancient Greek myths tell of how, when Odysseus came here, he stayed for seven years. You might hear tell that he was captivated by the sea-nymph Calypso but we know better: surely it was the lure of the sea and the beauty beneath the surface that kept him entranced!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Zoom in to Xlendi, the island’s most picturesque fishing village, acclaimed for its scenic bay: it’s a charming cove nestled between dramatic cliffs. Here, just steps away from the water’s edge, you’ll find Gozo Dive (formerly St Andrews), a dynamic, professional dive centre which caters comprehensively for every level of diver, from the exuberant 8-year old or the nervous beginner to the avid advanced open water diver and established experts with bulging log-books under their weight-belts.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Xlendi Bay itself is a marvel – whether for a shake-out dive on its gently sloping sands, or for something more dramatic. Underwater, it’s spectacular, with inner and outer reefs, a towering pinnacle, a secret tunnel into an open water cave, and the criss-crossed ropes of the boats on one side of the bay that add a ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ flavour for those with a whimsical leaning.
Xlendi’s deeper waters are also home to the world’s first deepwater archaeological park where a Phoenician shipwreck dating back to the 7th century BC lies 110 metres below the surface. Although some intrepid divers head down to see this for real, most people view this wreck and its ancient amphora on screen inside the historic watchtower that stands on guard at the entrance to the bay. (Standing above Roman salt pans, traditionally used to harvest sea salt, this tower dates back to the Knights of Malta for whom it provided protection against pirates, deterring smugglers and quarantine evaders. It was also used as an observation deck during World War II, when the entire Maltese Islands were awarded The George Cross for bravery by King George VI.)
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
With a 30-year history of excellence, and a friendly international team of professional instructors, Gozo Dive offers guided diving for everyone, all year round, whatever your ambition whether that’s simply a 1 day try dive you’re after, Advanced Open Water Diver, Rescue Diver or specialty courses. Training packages available include PADI, SSI, RAID & SDI/TDI for adults and children, and technical, CCR & instructor courses too, all personalised as you wish. Fancy developing your underwater photography or learning Trimix techniques to explore deeper dive sites with the use of helium-based breathing mixtures? Rebreather courses or looking to build up 30 or more rebreather hours before your MOD2? No problem. With a dedicated Tech Room, Gozo Dive have it all covered.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Gozo Dive will welcome you – in English, French, Italian, German, Spanish or Maltese – as a solo diver, a family or a large group, and with the brand-new deluxe Gozo Dive Residence on the hillside just above Gozo Dive, they’ll can make life easy for you with a fully organized dive & stay package (complete with airport transfers). Designed for divers, these brand-new self-catering apartments have stunning bay-view balconies, a breathtaking roof-top plunge pool, air conditioning and powerful WiFi.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Beyond Xlendi, North, South, East and West, Gozo is a playground of caves, tunnels, reefs, and wrecks whatever the direction of the waves and wind. Most dives are accessible from the shore; others, Gozo Dive reaches with its own purpose-built spacious boat. Stay in the shade, as you whip across the waves!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
The Blue Hole is the most famous dive site on Gozo, an extraordinary rock chimney with a giant window to the ocean sixteen metres below the surface, from which you can venture out into Gozo’s Coral Gardens and Coral Cave or over a seabed scattered with giant boulders and geological intrigue. Just 100 metres away, The Inland Sea is another extraordinary spot, a green-blue lake surrounded by rock, from which you can follow a shallow tunnel to the cerulean blue beyond. For Game of Thrones fans, this rocky outcrop, ‘Dwejra’, is the location at which the wedding between the Dothraki warlord Khal Drogo and Khaleesi Daenerys Targaryen, was filmed. (You could also, on your final afternoon before you fly home, visit Malta’s ancient city of Medina, to see the Entrance Gate and streets, and squares of King’s Landing.)
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Perhaps lesser known, but equally striking, on Gozo’s Northern coast, Cathedral Cave is reached by following an ‘underwater stairway’ of momentous boulders that leads into a large cave, to enjoy both above and below the water. Into this vast dome of rock, light floods from below whilst fresh air reaches you through a crack in the rock and the water’s a vivid blue. Surfacing here is a fantastical experience and an amazing photo opportunity.
There’s nothing like a wreck emerging from the seabed to trigger the imagination: at the MV Karwela, a 1950s passenger ferry from Valletta’s Grand Harbour sitting upright on the sand to the south of the island, the light dapples through the windows and wooded slats. Its classic split stairway evokes thoughts of the Titanic!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Then over on the remote island of Comino, the P31 is a decommissioned military patrol boat, scuttled at 21m for divers of all levels. It’s home to many fish and other marine life; and Gozo Dive guides will lead you through the interconnecting Santa Marija Caves with its slashed-rock Z-for-Zorro swim through. And that’s just for starters.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
If you’re dreaming of a trip to Gozo but some of the family prefer to stay on the surface, snorkelling is an option at many of the dive sites. Alternatively, in Xlendi, there’s a small sandy beach and two swimming areas with lifeguards for splashing and diving. You can hire pedalos and stand-up paddle boards, and it’s a great starting point for coastal walks. Even the smallest legs can follow the secret path to Karolina’s Cave, a hidden sea cave used by nuns to access the sea in privacy. Oh, and Xlendi has the best ice-cream in Malta!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
(And should you – however unlikely it seems – decide to put your fins to one side for an afternoon, reliable regular buses deliver you to Victoria, the island’s main town, in less than ten minutes. Or because this gemstone of an island is only pocket-sized, Uber and the local equivalents, can transport you wherever you want to go in mere moments!)
Take the plunge and book your Gozo adventure, for this year or next, today!
Contact Gozo Dive Now:
Email: info@gozodive.com
Tel: +35621551301
Web: www.gozodive.com
In June we were incredibly fortunate to be invited to dive in Alonissos, a small Greek Island in the Sporades island chain located in the North Aegean Sea. While I have long been a big fan of the Greek Islands as a great holiday destination, I had not had the opportunity to do any diving on previous visits and Mike and I were extremely excited to see what Alonissos had to offer both above and below the surface!
The Sporades are easily accessible via the airport in Skiathos (the first island in the chain), which is served by Jet2 flights from all major UK airports from May through October. Numerous ferries and charter boats make island hopping from Skiathos Town a breeze. After an hour boat ride, the picturesque port of Patitiri was a wonderful introduction to Alonissos, where we were met by our gracious hosts Kostas of Albedo Travel and Dias of Alonissos Triton Dive Center. Mike and I were delighted to be staying at the Paradise Hotel, aptly named for its stunning views over the sea and great location for walking to the waterfront.
Alonissos is beautifully situated in the National Marine Park of Alonissos and the Northern Sporades, the largest marine protected area in Europe. The surrounding seas offer fabulous marine life, including incredibly rare species such as the Mediterranean monk seal. They boast deep walls covered in gorgonians and sponges, stunning topography with caverns, swimthroughs and pinnacles, and the first accessible ancient shipwreck from 500BC!
In locations where historical sites have been reported, the waters are largely restricted, but with collaboration between government, underwater archeologists and dive centres, incredible underwater museums are being created for a truly unique diving experience. Alonissos is home to the first of these, the Ancient Shipwreck of Peristera Accessible Underwater Archeological Site. The chance to dive into history (along with reports of healthy reef life and amazing underwater topography) meant Mike and I were keen to get in the water.
Our introduction to the diving around Alonissos was at the Agios Georgios Pinnacles, in the channel between Alonissos and Skopelos. This fantastic site was named “The Chimney,’ and proved to have a huge amount to see. We got to a decent depth here (over 25m), and marvelled at a colourful reef wall with a wonderful swim through whose rocky walls were absolutely covered with life. As well as brilliant topography there was no shortage of macro life here. We saw numerous nudibranchs, five different species in total. The second dive at Mourtias reef nearby was a shallower dive along a nice wall with lots of crevices. Several moray eels and grouper called this site home. We enjoyed looking in the crevices for lobster and smaller benthic life, such as cup corals and tunicates.
Our itinerary allowed us two dives a day with afternoons left to explore the island with our hire car and evenings to enjoy the famous Greek hospitality. This proved to be a lovely mix of in-water and land based diversions.
The next days diving to the Gorgonian Gardens and Triton’s Cave was to be even better! These two stunning sites are nothing short of fabulous. The Gorgonian Gardens was a deep wall near to the Agios Georgios islands. The ever-present currents in this deep channel meant that the sea life was amazing … the namesake Gorgonian sea fans dotted the wall at a depth of 30 to 50 meters, getting ever larger the deeper we went. Above 30m was by no means less beautiful, with sponges, corals, scorpionfish, moray eels and some rare and colourful nudibranchs.
The second shallower dive of the day was to Triton’s Cave or the Cavern of Skopelos, on the east side of that island. The spectacular rock formations had wild striations both above and below the water making a truly epic topography. The cavern entrance was at 14m, and big enough for a buddy pair, winding up to 6m and passing two beautiful windows out into the blue. Emerging from the cavern, the light at the shallower depths and the incredible rock formations made for a fantastic gentle swimming safety stop and we all surfaced by the boat with massive grins.
Check out our next blog :Alonissos: The complete diving destination (Part 2)” to hear about our amazing dive on the 2500 year old Peristera Wreck!
Thanks to:
Alonissos Triton Dive Center https://bestdivingingreece.com/
Albedo Travel https://alonissosholidays.com/activities/
Paradise Hotel https://paradise-hotel.gr/
Alonissos Municipality https://alonissos.gr/en/
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