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Ashraf Hassanin – Red Sea Dive Guide

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I have just spent a week running a wreck video course on the liveaboard Blue Planet organised by OonasDivers. We were following the Northern Red Sea Wrecks route and combining filming scrap metal on the sea bed with good wildlife.  I’m not an over keen wrecks diver just for the sake of the wreck itself; the main interest for me is the habitat they provide for a huge variety of marine life, and as luck would have it our Egyptian dive guide Ashraf Hassanin felt the same way. Ashraf turned out to be not only enthusiastic, but also very knowledgeable. During our 5 diving days we explored large wrecks such as the Thistlegorm to the smaller and less distinguished.

Being a Dive Guide is hard work. First out of bed in the mornings and last to bed at night, always being cheery and helpful. Ashraf’s enthusiasm for the diving and wildlife was inspirational, as was his desire to make sure we all fully enjoyed each new location. During one of his rare quiet moments I asked him about his job.

Jeff.  How did you start diving?

Ashraf.  I started diving long ago, I have always loved the sea. As a kid I started ducking and skin dipping, helping tie the mooring ropes and the lines for boats. I loved swimming and snorkelling, doing short dives. Eventually I was a crew member on liveaboards, driving the zodiacs, assisting the Captain. I got to know the dive sites and how the currents worked. It all helped me to know later how to dive the dive sites and how to manage the liveaboard trips, the itineraries, what is the best you can see, when to go, what is the best way to approach without disturbing the wildlife. It’s all very interesting and very important.

Jeff.  What made you choose diving rather than crew or skipper on the boat?

Ashraf.  Mainly I love the sea. I love marine life. It has a big fascination for me, life under the water, absolutely lovely. It’s a lot different underwater, it’s more interesting than above. The skipper is in the wheel house all the time. I worked hard and finally became a dive instructor then dive master. I am now a guide as well as being a technical diver.

Jeff.   So what is it about being underwater that is so good?

Ashraf.  When you see a shark or a pod of Dolphins and even the lovely nudibranchs, it really makes you very happy. Especially 2 weeks ago we had beautiful schools of hammerheads. We enjoyed it very much, our clients enjoyed it as well.

Jeff.   What is your favourite spot?

Ashraf.  Every itinerary has different meaning, has different lovely dives. It is impossible to say this is the best spot here or there, every site has different meaning, different life. I saw a whale shark and a tiger shark at the Elphinstone recently. While right here there are dolphins.

Jeff.   You are very enthusiastic when you are talking to the people who come on the tours. Do they always like diving because of the wild life? What is the reason that most people dive do you think?

Ashraf.  Most people like diving because of the feeling underwater, you feel yourself.  Some are extremely interested in marine life, some are diving because their boyfriend or girlfriend are diving.

Jeff.   Just joining in!

Ashraf.  Yes. It’s really nice to see the variety of people who are interested.

Jeff.  Do you ever have problems with your guests?

Ashraf.  Not really. Guests might not be happy if they are sick.  A few weeks ago guests arrived but no luggage, none of their own gear and clothes. I tried to make them happy by showing them the sharks and all this lovely stuff.  We loaned them equipment and 3 days later their bags came.

Jeff.   How long have you been diving?

Ashraf.  About 10 years.

Jeff.  Do you notice anything different in the state of the sea in that time?

Ashraf.  Definitely, definitely. I am not happy with many things. We need mooring lines in the Red Sea. There are not many fixed. None of the guides are happy with this. For example, we need lots of mooring lines to protect Devils Island and Brothers Island, we need to protect all these areas.  It’s not only the surface reefs.  We need to take care of the deeper areas as well, 40 – 100mts down, the sharks are down deep, this is their home, their habitat, every time an anchor is thrown in it is not good.

Jeff.    Is it only mooring lines that are the problem?

Ashraf.  Not entirely. There are heavily dived sites and some of the divers are not the best. A lot of coral has been damaged by thoughtless diving.

Jeff.   What is the main problem? Is it their fins or do they stand on it?

Ashraf.  Standing on the reef is strictly not allowed but it does happen. But also they are finning across it and not really taking care.  Also touching the coral is a problem.

Jeff.   In your briefings do you talk about taking care of the coral?

Ashraf.  At the first briefing, I talk about weights and buoyancy control, so that you are not touching any corals.  I talk about how to use a stone area to push yourself away from the corals if you have to.  But just use one finger to push yourself away.  I am giving divers a chance if they are filming, and trying to take macro, but always great care must be taken, especially with their fins. We only take photos and we only leave bubbles. It’s a good saying, protecting the marine life is very important to us.

Jeff.    Other than the coral, what about quantities of marine life, fish shoals?

Ashraf.  Actually at Ras Mohamed this week it was really interesting to see big schools of snappers, really fantastic. We had lovely dives, out in the blue with not too much current. Also lots of Gorgonian and nice soft corals. Ras Mohamed is one of the most protected marine park areas by the authorities, no fishing there and no mooring at all.

Jeff.    How is that enforced?

Ashraf.  All the boats, the guides, the captains, they all know the area is protected. No one can get permissions to fish there.

Jeff.   So if you see a boat fishing there or doing something wrong, do you stop them?

Ashraf.  Definitely, we stop them as well as take pictures and report them.

Jeff.   Who would you report them to?

Ashraf.  We would take a picture and report them to HEPCA (Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association) and CDWS (Chamber of Dive and Water Sports) and they have a quick reaction.  It’s happened before, they react very quickly and this is important.

Jeff.   Is there ever control of the amount of divers on any of the dive sites?

Ashraf.  This is very difficult. What we can try to do is fix the mooring lines to stop boats dropping anchors….we can teach and advise the divers to be careful of all the corals.  The Red Sea is one of the best dive sites in the world, the variety of wildlife, warm water, good visibility, more than 200 species of marine life, corals, wrecks. We have everything. Even down at 100 metres there is good visibility for the tech divers.

Jeff.     Do you work all year or do you manage to have time off?

Ashraf.  The end of January to the beginning of March is the low season and during that period I get some time off when I can stay home.

Jeff.    Do you dive when you are not working?

Ashraf.  mmmmm –  I would say yes, I don’t mind to dive but not in the Red Sea. I dive so many times in the Red Sea all the rest of the year so I like to dive somewhere else.

Jeff.    What do you see the future being for diving and marine life in the Red Sea?

Ashraf.   That’s important.  I would say it is time now to protect wrecks and marine life. I was not happy at all to see lost mooring lines on some of our wrecks. The last wreck we were on I saw a mooring rope through a bolt hole in the bow section which is now nearly broken, smashed. I saw one of the boats tying their line on this and it was being slowly torn from the wreck. Sooner or later it will come off. I know before that this part of the ship was very strong. It is so bad for these wrecks; the dive boats are getting bigger and bigger every year.

We will kill everything, that’s not nice. We need the authorities to act now.  We need good solid mooring lines to prevent all this.

Jeff.   Would it be HEPCA responsible for this?

Ashraf.  HEPCA, yes. We will report this to HEPCA, we will write them a letter and ask them to react quickly against this situation and to heavily fine each boat making temporary lines onto the wrecks. For example, the Thistlegorm is one of the best 10 wrecks in the world, a highlight of the Red Sea. One of the best that divers come to visit. We saw eight boats today, there can be fifteen or more. It’s too dangerous, lines fixed everywhere. I think HEPCA will react quickly and they will lay new lines. They did fix secure mooring lines last year but now we have the bigger and bigger boats and the lines are snapped off and broken. But I am optimistic that HEPCA will deal with this.

Jeff.   Will this restrict the number of boats and divers?

Ashraf.  No, the number of divers and boats is not a problem, it is the damage to the wreck. We need solid moorings away from the wreck and then perhaps just thin guide lines from the mooring to the actual wreck for the less experienced divers. This then is good for the safety margins, if there is a strong current. I cannot say to my clients you cannot dive today, there is a strong current, I want all my guests to be happy, so a very thin mooring line to connect the main mooring lines to the wrecks would be good. These can be placed by each guide for his group. This would work.

It is the big heavy boats that are the problem, holding onto the body of the wrecks. The big waves and stormy conditions in this area are pulling the boats against their mooring ropes. It is crazy to put these ropes on the wrecks. I have seen them on the bridge roofs or winches. I even saw one tied to the large deck gun of the Thistlegorm. Why? Why? That is a museum, an underwater museum.

Jeff.  The fishing question. There are less and less fish in the sea every year. Do you see that here?

Ashraf.  Getting less and less but here in the Red Sea we have fishes coming up from the Indian Ocean, from the deep South going all the way up to the Ras Mohamed area.  It is highly seasonal and we have all these fish coming and all the sharks follow the fish. We have to study this, it’s important to study the itinerary and the map of these fish, where they go, where they come from, where they’re breeding, that’s important.  Also sharks, where they come from, where they are heading for.

Jeff.   As a guide, as you are seeing it all. Do you take notes, log things and send  information to HEPCA?

Ashraf.   Honestly, at the moment I don’t. I will start to do that, I would like to do that.

Jeff.    Do you have the time?

Ashraf.   It is very tight, but you have to do it. I have called HEPCA several times to report matters, to tell them this and that. I have to send a report, I have to ask what’s going on, what’s the future, what are you doing, how can we help you?

We have to be able to give the people information. Not to throw cigarettes in the water.  Plastic is very bad. We have to teach people, give them sessions. The crew must also understand and avoid throwing things in the water. Recycling is crucial.

But actually now it is much better than it was long ago.

Jeff.   Thank you Ashraf, it’s been good to hear your thoughts and thank you for a great weeks diving.

Jeff is a multiple award winning, freelance TV cameraman/film maker and author. Having made both terrestrial and marine films, it is the world's oceans and their conservation that hold his passion with over 10.000 dives in his career. Having filmed for international television companies around the world and author of two books on underwater filming, Jeff is Author/Programme Specialist for the 'Underwater Action Camera' course for the RAID training agency. Jeff has experienced the rapid advances in technology for diving as well as camera equipment and has also experienced much of our planet’s marine life, witnessing, first hand, many of the changes that have occurred to the wildlife and environment during that time. Jeff runs bespoke underwater video and editing workshops for the complete beginner up to the budding professional.

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Alonissos: The complete diving destination (Part 1)

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In June we were incredibly fortunate to be invited to dive in Alonissos, a small Greek Island in the Sporades island chain located in the North Aegean Sea.  While I have long been a big fan of the Greek Islands as a great holiday destination, I had not had the opportunity to do any diving on previous visits and Mike and I were extremely excited to see what Alonissos had to offer both above and below the surface!

The Sporades are easily accessible via the airport in Skiathos (the first island in the chain), which is served by Jet2 flights from all major UK airports from May through October.  Numerous ferries and charter boats make island hopping from Skiathos Town a breeze.  After an hour boat ride, the picturesque port of Patitiri was a wonderful introduction to Alonissos, where we were met by our gracious hosts Kostas of Albedo Travel and Dias of Alonissos Triton Dive Center.  Mike and I were delighted to be staying at the Paradise Hotel, aptly named for its stunning views over the sea and great location for walking to the waterfront.

Alonissos is beautifully situated in the National Marine Park of Alonissos and the Northern Sporades, the largest marine protected area in Europe.  The surrounding seas offer fabulous marine life, including incredibly rare species such as the Mediterranean monk seal.  They boast deep walls covered in gorgonians and sponges, stunning topography with caverns, swimthroughs and pinnacles, and the first accessible ancient shipwreck from 500BC!

In locations where historical sites have been reported, the waters are largely restricted, but with collaboration between government, underwater archeologists and dive centres, incredible underwater museums are being created for a truly unique diving experience.  Alonissos is home to the first of these, the Ancient Shipwreck of Peristera Accessible Underwater Archeological Site.  The chance to dive into history (along with reports of healthy reef life and amazing underwater topography) meant Mike and I were keen to get in the water.

Our introduction to the diving around Alonissos was at the Agios Georgios Pinnacles, in the channel between Alonissos and Skopelos.  This fantastic site was named “The Chimney,’ and proved to have a huge amount to see.  We got to a decent depth here (over 25m), and marvelled at a colourful reef wall with a wonderful swim through whose rocky walls were absolutely covered with life.  As well as brilliant topography there was no shortage of macro life here.  We saw numerous nudibranchs, five different species in total.  The second dive at Mourtias reef nearby was a shallower dive along a nice wall with lots of crevices. Several moray eels and grouper called this site home.  We enjoyed looking in the crevices for lobster and smaller benthic life, such as cup corals and tunicates.

Our itinerary allowed us two dives a day with afternoons left to explore the island with our hire car and evenings to enjoy the famous Greek hospitality.  This proved to be a lovely mix of in-water and land based diversions.  

The next days diving to the Gorgonian Gardens and Triton’s Cave was to be even better!  These two stunning sites are nothing short of fabulous.  The Gorgonian Gardens was a deep wall near to the Agios Georgios islands.  The ever-present currents in this deep channel meant that the sea life was amazing … the namesake Gorgonian sea fans dotted the wall at a depth of 30 to 50 meters, getting ever larger the deeper we went.  Above 30m was by no means less beautiful, with sponges, corals, scorpionfish, moray eels and some rare and colourful nudibranchs.

The second shallower dive of the day was to Triton’s Cave or the Cavern of Skopelos, on the east side of that island. The spectacular rock formations had wild striations both above and below the water making a truly epic topography.  The cavern entrance was at 14m, and big enough for a buddy pair, winding up to 6m and passing two beautiful windows out into the blue.  Emerging from the cavern, the light at the shallower depths and the incredible rock formations made for a fantastic gentle swimming safety stop and we all surfaced by the boat with massive grins. 

Check out our next blog :Alonissos: The complete diving destination (Part 2)” to hear about our amazing dive on the 2500 year old Peristera Wreck!

Thanks to:

Alonissos Triton Dive Center https://bestdivingingreece.com/

Albedo Travel https://alonissosholidays.com/activities/

Paradise Hotel https://paradise-hotel.gr/

Alonissos Municipality https://alonissos.gr/en/

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Mamma Mia! Diving Skopelos (Part 2)

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Our second days dive itinerary was to the famous Christoforos wreck! This is arguably the best dive in Skopelos and though only open to divers with deep diving experience, this 83m long wreck is well worth the visit.  

The Christoforos sits in 43 meters of water with the deck at 32 to 35 meters.  A 30m dive can give an impressive view of the wreck, though such a large wreck needs a few dives to truly do it justice.  Given its ideal location just a 2 minute boat ride from the dive centre dock it is an excellent first dive of the day.  The sheltered site is also diveable in all but the absolute worst weather so although deep, the water is usually clear with little to no current making it a very pleasant dive.  The site is superb for technical diving and a great training site for the Tec 40 and 45 programs, offered by Skopelos Dive Center.  

The Christoforos wreck was originally a collier ship built in 1950 at Grangemouth shipyard under the name “Thomas Hardie”.  In 1976 she joined the Greek merchant fleet as “Christoforos”.  On the 2nd of October 1983 the Christoforos was carrying 2600 tonnes of cement from Volos to Piraeus Port. During the voyage the weather turned, resulting in the ship developing a 7 degree list, whereby she changed course for safe anchorage at Panormos, Skopelos.  The ship reached Panormos at 16:00 with a list of 17 degrees and water ingress to No. 1 hull.  Though attempts were made to right the vessel, the crew were ordered to abandon ship at 22:00.  The captain, lieutenant and the quartermaster remained to try and save the ship, but had to abandon the attempt themselves and the Christoforos finally sank at 05:30 on 3rd October 1983.  She now sits upright in 43 meters of water less than 200m from shore in Panormos.

Diving has only been allowed here since 2018, so the wreck is very well preserved and a real treat to dive.  Permission to dive here was granted by the authorities after lots of incredibly hard work by the Skopelos Dive Center staff.  Having a fantastic wreck in such an amazing location and in excellent condition is a real privilege.

Of all the sites in Skopelos this was the site Mike and I were most keen to experience.  Having kitted up and zipped across the bay to the mooring, we left the surface and followed the descent line until the wreck emerged spectacularly from the blue at 15m.  She is a big and beautiful wreck, sitting as though calmly continuing her journey along the seabed.  With most of her original features still intact there were points of interest everywhere, including the anchors, winches, ships telegraphs, the wheel and RDF antenna.  

We found that aquatic life had colonised the ship, with schools of fish, electric blue nudibranchs, a large moray eel and the resident scorpionfish lurking inside the bridge.  The Christoforos was truly a stunning wreck and despite maximising our time at depth we eventually had to say our goodbyes and begin the slow and steady return to the surface. 

After a superb morning dive we had the afternoon to do a little sightseeing of the island, with a trip to the church of Agios Ioannis Kastri made famous by the blockbuster movie “Mamma Mia!”. Mike and I spent a happy afternoon pootling around in our little hire car before meeting up with Lina from Skopelos Dive Center.  An underwater archeologist as well as a dive professional, Lina had offered to show us a rather special attraction, the Christoforos shipwreck Digital Spot public information and awareness centre.

A fantastic initiative made possible from the collaboration of the government and hard work of the staff at Skopelos Dive Center is the “Digital Spot” in Agnontas port.  This information center has a number of displays on the history of the Christoforos wreck, the process by which the wreck was allowed to be opened to the public for diving tourism, other sites of historical interest in the area, a video of the wreck and the best bit, a virtual reality dry dive experience!  The beauty of the VR system is that non diving members of the family can see what you have seen on the wreck, or you can see areas that you may not have explored during the dive due to time or depth limitations.  It was a truly immersive experience and a great addition to the dive itself.

After a wonderful day we celebrated our last evening on the island with an exquisite meal in Skopelos Town with fabulous views over the town and bay, washed down with the excellent local wine.  The lamb with lemon and potatoes was a meal which I could happily eat every day for the rest of my life! 

Skopelos is an island that truly has it all.  The diving is excellent, the landscape is beautiful with plenty of non diving activities, the locals friendly and the food and drink superb.  Given how accessible it is as a holiday destination it has avoided becoming overcrowded and even in peak season offers a fun yet relaxing atmosphere.  We highly recommend giving Skopelos a visit.  We will certainly be back again!

Thanks to:

Municipality of Skopelos (https://skopelos.com/

Skopelos Dive Center  (https://sporadesdiving.gr/)

Ionia Hotel (https://www.ioniahotel.gr/en)

Dolphin of Skopelos (https://dolphinofskopelos.com/)

Ta Kymata restaurant (@takymata)

The Muses restaurant (https://www.facebook.com/TheMussesMousses/)

Aktaiov resturant (https://skopelos.com/listings/aktaion-taverna/)

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