News
Diving the wreck of the SS Vienna
A “Glad you made it!” sign greeted us in Paradise, Michigan as we entered this charming rural town located in the eastern part of Lake Superior. Near Sault Ste Marie, it is truly a paradise for shipwreck diving with intact freighters, steam ships and schooners lying at both recreational and technical diving depths. What is different about diving in Lake Superior compared to the other Great Lakes is the almost complete lack of zebra and quagga mussels covering the shipwrecks and generally good visibility. Visiting Paradise in August also offers various non-diving activities including the annual blueberry festival. We headed to the aptly named Vagabond motel to settle in. The NOAA forecast was calling for gale winds for the next day and we knew we would have to wait to go diving, so we settled in at our favourite local restaurant, the Fish House for our favourite whitefish dinner as a diversion until the “seas” calmed down. Whitefish Bay’s name came from the abundance of whitefish in this large bay, and the people in Fish House know how to prepare it to perfection. Ahh… Paradise Found.
The gale winds subsided quickly and we were able to get out the following day.
This part of the lake saw an increase in ship traffic after the Soo Locks opened up in 1855, and more traffic meant more accidents and disasters. The Edmund Fitzgerald sank here in November of 1975 in a perfect storm. Whitefish Point sticks out into the bay creating a hazardous navigation obstacle as ships pass by. Ships sank here for a variety of reasons: Some of them ran into unexpected storms with steep waves, which are not like ocean swells, but rather waves following each other in short distances. When these waves are 30ft tall, they can literally break a ship in half, as the bow is suspended by one wave and the stern by another. Others sank in pre-RADAR days during snow storms and dense fogs with collisions due to the reduced visibilities. One of our favourite wrecks that we visited on this trip, the propeller steamship Vienna, sank due to a collision. The cause of the collision is still unknown, although we know from research that the weather was fair that day.
The SS Vienna was a 191ft long steamer built in 1873 when sail rigging was still popular on steamers. It was not unheard of ships sinking more than once during their career, and the Vienna was not an exception, sinking only three years after she was built. She was recovered, rebuilt and enhanced with additional cabin structures on top of her deck, making her somewhat awkward to manoeuvre. She sailed for another 16 years until she sailed to her final voyage in Whitefish Bay. On September 17th 1892, the steamer Nipigon was travelling upbound in Whitefish Bay towing two schooners when the Vienna was passing by downbound toward the Soo Locks. As is customary for passing port to port they exchanged the appropriate signals, however the Nipigon suddenly veered and rammed into the iron ore filled Vienna, plunging into her port side close to the bow and tearing a large hole into her. The Nipigon attempted to tow the Vienna to the shore, but the damage was too great and she filled with water, causing her to go down only about a mile from the shore in about 146 feet of cold water. As unfortunate as this incident was, the close distance to shore and the moderate depth makes her a very accessible site to recreational divers who can enjoy exploring a nearly intact old wooden steamer, one that is sheltered from most of the windy weather prevalent in Paradise.
After securing Molly V to the permanent mooring, we put on our Megalodon rebreathers and followed the line down to the bow. It was early in August and the water was relatively warm for the lakes. Surface temperatures were at 68F and we didn’t hit the thermocline until 100ft, where the water was 48F. Even so, drysuits are a good idea in these waters.
Joining the wreck at the bow, it is obvious that Vienna hit the bottom hard as she sank, and one can see the damage to her clearly. Even so, the load markings are still clearly visible on the bow.
Swimming over the bow and the deck towards the port side we encounter the collision break. It is large and it became apparent that she took on water fast when she sunk. Bilge pumps in those days were often manual and unable to keep up with the amount of water pouring in. Furthermore ships were not usually compartmentalized, and one large hole was often a fatal wound.
Not very far from the collision gap on the deck lays a small wooden boat. It is a popular stop for exploring divers, and we pause here to investigate. The crew from the Vienna escaped without harm when she went down, not using this as a life boat. In fact the boat was initially salvaged in the days when artefacts were collected by divers, but was later brought back and replaced on the deck of Vienna for divers to enjoy.
The Vienna was a double deck wooden bulk freighter. It is a relatively easy swim through the decks and divers can explore around the engine, the boilers, and the smoke stack.
There are still many artifacts remaining to see such as partially fallen cabin walls with white paint on it, cups, shovel, hammer, and capstone.
Descending down past the stern one can see a huge rudder, rudder shaft, and the propeller.
As we take a closer look at the triple-expansion steam engine we notice a star shaped oil-painted decoration, painted there by one of the engineers at his work station so many years ago. The colours are so vibrant that it is difficult to imagine it has been under water for 120 years. We envision a boiler tender or perhaps the engineer painting the decoration on one of the long voyages. Is it a flower, reminding him of a pastoral scene far away from the heat of the engine? Or a cross, representing his faith? Or is it a star? We ponder these questions as we gaze over this beautiful hint of domestic life afloat so many years ago.
While we chose to use our rebreathers to do one long 40 min dive and saw the whole wreck, recreational divers may choose to do two shorter dives, one on the bow and one on the stern and accomplish the same. This wreck has usually two mooring lines, a courtesy of Whitefish Point Underwater Preserve.
If you like old wooden ships with a lot of their design and artistic details still present, then the Vienna must be on your short list of underwater treasures to see! Don’t let the sound of “Great Lakes” and cold water scare you away because we had plenty of warm water on this visit!
If you’re not a diver you can still enjoy the local shipwrecks by visiting the world class Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum located on the tip of the Whitefish Point.
Besides being able to view a number of artefacts from the local shipwrecks such as ship’s wheels, telegraphs, or china, the exhibit contains the Newt-Suit used during diving and recovering the bell from the Edmund Fitzgerald, which is now also on display. Outside you can stroll around the oldest operating lighthouse on Lake Superior, learn about how life boats were constructed and used, visit the museum store or take a leisure walk around Lake Superior’s sandy beach.
Check out Jitka and Dave’s online schedule and contact them to sign up for a diving adventure in the Great Lakes including Lake Michigan, Lake Superior, and Lake Huron by visiting them at www.ShipwreckExplorers.com or by emailing them at info@ShipwreckExplorers.com
Gear News
Scubapro Free Octopus Promotion 2024
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More information available on www.scubapro.com.
Blogs
Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 3: The Mighty Thistlegorm
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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