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Once upon a time, there were three Ugly Brothers. One was less ugly, but only just, than the other two, and he was taller than the other two too. He was however, of Italian descent, so enough about him, other than to say from now on he shall be referred to as ‘The Count.’ The other two were under-tall for their weight, and will be known from now as Stumpy and Splash. Stumpy due to him having exceptionally short (but very sexy) legs, and Splash because he once fell out of a RIB in the Red Sea. Nuff said about that.
Stumpy and Splash knew that they were going on this trip. Stumpy knew that the Count was coming too, but Splash didn’t. It all made for a very emotional meet at Heathrow for our Qatar flight to Doha and then on to Male in the Maldives.
Considerable supping of all potions available on the plane made the journey vanish in a puff of fumes, and we arrived into Male to catch our local flight down to Khoodhoo, a 60 minute turbo-prop assisted flight to as far South as you can go in The Maldives. We were almost touching the equator when we boarded our boat for the week!
Now, I (aka Stumpy) have to pen a few words about the boat, or I will undoubtedly end up as a pumpkin or mouse (with short, but very sexy legs).
Our vessel was the Italian owned and operated Duke of York Yacht and Spa, and it so lived up to its name. The dhoni transported us from the jetty to the mooring, and our kit stayed on the dhoni as is typical in the Maldives. So, getting on board a luxury yacht with no dive clutter is a very pleasant experience, but was totally surpassed by the sheer size and quality of the rest of our floating Palace for our weeks diving.
Indeed, I have never seen such space on any live-aboard, ever! A huge beam (width, for those non-nautical readers) was immediately noticed, and then the immense salon, furnished with a style and opulence second to none. Plush couches, recliners and the like, and of course, the most important of all, the Bar!
4 full decks, with a huge sun-deck up top, suites with double patio doors opening on to a deck we christened the ‘Sun-downer deck’, the main deck and then the lower deck. 11 cabins, and NO BUNK BEDS!!!!
The standard cabins are huge, have individual air conditioning controls, and the en-suites are bigger than the whole of my first studio-apartment. All are beautifully furnished, have full wardrobes, a desk, and both a single and double bed in them – the single making a perfect dumping ground for cameras and the like.
Dining is conducted al fresco on the main deck, but there are canvas curtains if the weather is all of a sudden under a nasty spell. Food – yes, there is food. And loads of it, and it is awesome!! Splash had his cooked individually, as he doesn’t eat fish, so we of course stole his every time he left the table, as is par for the course, but in summary, the food is ‘gert lush me babber’, and Splash’s was even nicer because it was stolen. Snacks (cookies and cakes, and fruit for sensible people) is available between every dive too.
Diving –we were there to dive, so I had better sharpen the quill and get on with this part of the story…….
The Extreme South Safari is not about reefs and pretty corals – it IS about sharks, sharks, more sharks, and whale sharks, and this is what tempted us to take the trip.
The first dive was, in all honesty, rubbish. We were in the lagoon on the arrival island, and there is a population there, and a fish-canning factory. Human interference, industry and super-warm waters mean that the corals were dead. We were gutted, but took time to have the dive explained to us (for once, I actually listened to a post-dive briefing!) We had done a check dive to get our kit set up, get wet, and get ready –for the dives that were to come were going to be what can only be described as ‘intense’.
Optimism was taken in big doses by the band of three, and off we went – outside of the lagoon, and away from the island.
What followed over the next 6 days were three to four dives a day, and they were, without exception, magical in every sense. Great visibility, warm (30’ warm) waters, and enough current to raise the Black Pearl and propel it into Portsmouth. We wanted sharks, and we got them, by the bucket-load.
Each dive followed the plan of ‘jump in, drop down quickly, hook on, and watch’ so we either hooked on to rocks, or hung in the Blue just off the reef edge, and abra cabloody dabra, we were surrounded by sharks within minutes! And lots of them. And then lots more! Wow – this was just WOW!
As Splash needed to get loads of his very super awesome piccies, we soon opted out of these dives as the sharks weren’t within his lens-range and made our own plans, assisted by the awesome dive guides, all of who took over modelling duties from me (Stumpy) much to my chagrin. Something to do with beauty, flowing locks and long legs I expect, but that’s enough about me!
We harnessed their expertise, and dived the channels and WOW! Again – this was some extreme diving. If you turned sideways, the current would have ripped off your knickers on some of the dives, so we didn’t – we shot along with the flow until coming into shelter, to be greeted by leopard sharks, turtles galore, oriental sweetlips, and clusters of anemones of all shapes, colour and size. And big, super healthy, very colourful corals too – our first dives disappointment was obliviated as soon as we were away from the inhabited island.
We found a pinnacle or two totally enveloped by sweepers (glass fish), took some beautiful pics, and then watched jacks come in and devastate the shoals in a feeding frenzy – just spectacular!
What else? Big sting rays, mobula rays, spotted eagle rays, (did I mention sharks?) and some very friendly turtles – pretty much everything anyone would have on their wish list. But, the major point of this trip was to get up close and personal with whale sharks, and after every dive, despite the dive-guides promises, our optimism was starting to wane………
Day three (okay okay – we are impatient!) started with another stunning Maldivian sunrise –there is nothing quite like being that close to the equator for the start and finish of the day. There was something in the air – the guides knew of our ‘target’ and were plotting and scheming it seemed.
Whatever they were doing, it worked! After the normal adrenaline-fueled diving day, we settled down for dinner, and were advised not to drink booze.
The starters came and went, then the main (Splash losing his of course) and then dessert. Coffee followed, and then our ‘dinner guests’ arrived…..
Prior to dinner, the crew had placed big sodium lamps over the stern of the boat.
Throughout dinner, the krill had started to accumulate on the surface – a huge cloud of reddy brown surrounded the back deck, and then we got splashes. Squid were feeding in the light, and mobula rays were darting through the mush like rockets. Needlefish started jumping out of the water, and one even clouted the skiff floating on its umbilical tether some 10 metres away. The came the dolphins – yes –dolphins!! The sharks that were there soon vanished when this lot turned up! As amazing a spectacle as tis was, still no whale-sharks, but the crew knew something we didn’t!
9pm came and went, and then at 10, we got our first whale shark. Splash and I jumped in of course, but The Count, who dresses for dinner and is far too suave and sophisticated to get wet after hours, stayed on the dive platform where he concentrated on taking above water shots and smelling very nice.
2 hours! Yes – two whole bloody amazing and fantastically magical hours of being up close and personal with a gentle giant (this one was about 7 metres long, so not a fully grown adult) and I mean up close – we got bumped numerous times! I had dreamt about this of course, but the reality of being millimetres from its open mouth and taking photos down its throat was beyond all of those dreams!
Midnight came, and our gentle friend sauntered off – we sat on deck for an hour, a silent time to digest what we had experienced – there were so few words spoken. We then hit our cabins, full of excitement and smothered in a good coating of fairy-dust. Smiles? Our faces could have split!
0130 hours – and a gentle tap on my cabin door teased me from my slumber. Herbe, our Dive Captain, quietly informed me that the whale shark was back, and that is had brought a buddy! I then of course pounded on Splash’s door, and woke up el Conte, before the two of us then bounced all over the still sleeping Splash, just to make sure he was properly awake.
Needless to say, one whale shark was special. Two (the same original one and a 5m buddy) were incredible. They swam in synchronised loops, gulping down the krill, and were joined by us unruly lot and some of the crew too. We had the delight of their company for another 2 hours, staying right at the back of the boat, so close that they brushed up against the rails and ladder repeatedly.
Our wishes came true – we got whale sharks. These weren’t my first encounter, but it was by far the most memorable –I do not believe, even if I replace Sir David Attenborough in his job, that I could replicate anything as close to magic as this experience was.
The rest of the trip was made up of diving, and flights – nothing else is as important as the whale shark encounter we had, so ner! End of, ad finitum, le fin.
The trip? Awesome. The boat? Awesome. Would we go again? Hell yes!
So to end, and on a sombre note. We had an emotional meet at Heathrow when we left the UK to start our adventures. We had a phenomenal time, and one that is embedded permanently in our hearts and minds.
Our trip had an emotional end that followed very shortly after our return. Three very close friends, nay brothers (one less ugly than the other two, one with sexy legs and one who had to have a private chef) are now just two. Splash is no longer with us, having passed away a week after our return, but he will remain with us in spirit, within our hearts and memory, as he will to many, many others.
Forever and ever…
The Scuba Genies
Fire on Monroe Bravo is the latest book in the Jack Collier series by Fred Lockwood. Our story begins with our lead characters, Jack and Sandro, owners of Marine Salvage & Investigation Company, arriving on the Monroe Bravo Oil & Gas Platform in the North Sea. Having secured a contract for their vessel the MV Stavanger to act as support ship to the platform for TransGlobal Oil, our protagonists are on a celebratory visit.
However almost as soon as they arrive a series of explosions rock the platform, causing huge damage, loss of life and the very real danger of a massive human, ecological and financial disaster.
As the danger mounts for both our heroes and the surviving workers, Jack and Sandro will have to escape the inferno, all while trying to save the platform and the men still trapped unable to help themselves.
The disaster sets the scene for the unfolding story lines following the fate of the platform and our main characters, the police investigation into a suspected terrorist act and the actions of TransGlobal Oil as they attempt to navigate the pubic outcry and financial repercussions.
In his eighth book, Fire on Monroe Bravo, Fred Lockwood delivers an explosive thriller, with plenty of above and in-water drama, and our heroes fighting for survival, what more can you ask for?
We thoroughly recommend this read and look forward to the next in the series. For more information about his book series, you can check out the reviews of his previous books here on Scubaverse.
Available in a paperback version and for Kindle from Amazon and book stores.
In June we were incredibly fortunate to be invited to dive in Alonissos, a small Greek Island in the Sporades island chain located in the North Aegean Sea. While I have long been a big fan of the Greek Islands as a great holiday destination, I had not had the opportunity to do any diving on previous visits and Mike and I were extremely excited to see what Alonissos had to offer both above and below the surface!
The Sporades are easily accessible via the airport in Skiathos (the first island in the chain), which is served by Jet2 flights from all major UK airports from May through October. Numerous ferries and charter boats make island hopping from Skiathos Town a breeze. After an hour boat ride, the picturesque port of Patitiri was a wonderful introduction to Alonissos, where we were met by our gracious hosts Kostas of Albedo Travel and Dias of Alonissos Triton Dive Center. Mike and I were delighted to be staying at the Paradise Hotel, aptly named for its stunning views over the sea and great location for walking to the waterfront.
Alonissos is beautifully situated in the National Marine Park of Alonissos and the Northern Sporades, the largest marine protected area in Europe. The surrounding seas offer fabulous marine life, including incredibly rare species such as the Mediterranean monk seal. They boast deep walls covered in gorgonians and sponges, stunning topography with caverns, swimthroughs and pinnacles, and the first accessible ancient shipwreck from 500BC!
In locations where historical sites have been reported, the waters are largely restricted, but with collaboration between government, underwater archeologists and dive centres, incredible underwater museums are being created for a truly unique diving experience. Alonissos is home to the first of these, the Ancient Shipwreck of Peristera Accessible Underwater Archeological Site. The chance to dive into history (along with reports of healthy reef life and amazing underwater topography) meant Mike and I were keen to get in the water.
Our introduction to the diving around Alonissos was at the Agios Georgios Pinnacles, in the channel between Alonissos and Skopelos. This fantastic site was named “The Chimney,’ and proved to have a huge amount to see. We got to a decent depth here (over 25m), and marvelled at a colourful reef wall with a wonderful swim through whose rocky walls were absolutely covered with life. As well as brilliant topography there was no shortage of macro life here. We saw numerous nudibranchs, five different species in total. The second dive at Mourtias reef nearby was a shallower dive along a nice wall with lots of crevices. Several moray eels and grouper called this site home. We enjoyed looking in the crevices for lobster and smaller benthic life, such as cup corals and tunicates.
Our itinerary allowed us two dives a day with afternoons left to explore the island with our hire car and evenings to enjoy the famous Greek hospitality. This proved to be a lovely mix of in-water and land based diversions.
The next days diving to the Gorgonian Gardens and Triton’s Cave was to be even better! These two stunning sites are nothing short of fabulous. The Gorgonian Gardens was a deep wall near to the Agios Georgios islands. The ever-present currents in this deep channel meant that the sea life was amazing … the namesake Gorgonian sea fans dotted the wall at a depth of 30 to 50 meters, getting ever larger the deeper we went. Above 30m was by no means less beautiful, with sponges, corals, scorpionfish, moray eels and some rare and colourful nudibranchs.
The second shallower dive of the day was to Triton’s Cave or the Cavern of Skopelos, on the east side of that island. The spectacular rock formations had wild striations both above and below the water making a truly epic topography. The cavern entrance was at 14m, and big enough for a buddy pair, winding up to 6m and passing two beautiful windows out into the blue. Emerging from the cavern, the light at the shallower depths and the incredible rock formations made for a fantastic gentle swimming safety stop and we all surfaced by the boat with massive grins.
Check out our next blog :Alonissos: The complete diving destination (Part 2)” to hear about our amazing dive on the 2500 year old Peristera Wreck!
Thanks to:
Alonissos Triton Dive Center https://bestdivingingreece.com/
Albedo Travel https://alonissosholidays.com/activities/
Paradise Hotel https://paradise-hotel.gr/
Alonissos Municipality https://alonissos.gr/en/
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