News
Into the Blue – Part Two
By now, you will have hopefully read the first blog from my recent trip to the Red Sea with The Scuba Place on M/Y Big Blue. If you haven’t, you can find the link to the blog here.
I’ve been diving since 2011, although I didn’t get really serious about diving until 2013. In the November of that year I joined Scuba School on a trip to Sharm El Sheikh to complete my Advanced Open Water course. That was the first time I heard about the famous SS Thistlegorm and its cult status in the wreck diving world. Unfortunately, as I, along with a lot of the group were novice divers, and so we were unable to dive it on that 2013 trip, along with a lot of the other famous wrecks from the North. Little did I know, I wouldn’t return to the Northern Red Sea until this trip in September 2022 with The Scuba Place. The wrecks remained mysterious all those years but I was soon getting the full experience. After the first two and a half days exploring the amazing reefs, it was time to break my Thistlegorm virginity and get the true “lust for rust” experience of the Northern itinerary.
A school of batfish greeted us on our safety stop after an amazing introduction to the SS Thistlegorm.
As we moored up at the SS Thistlegorm for the afternoon dive, I got a strange sense of anticipation run through my body. More so than at any other specific dive site. Strange really, as I don’t normally get excited about wreck diving, but here was a site that I’d heard so much about but was still so mysterious. I’d always thought it was a difficult dive and had a slight fear of it, as I wasn’t allowed to do it all those years back. Then, after watching a 20 minute film explaining the story of the wreck and listening to the stories of survivors,. I knew it was a site that demanded respect. As Mo went through the dive briefing, I quickly realised it seemed a lot more simple than I had in mind. I then became more excited than fearful as me and my dive buddy went through our plan.
A diver explores one of the decks inside the SS Thistlegorm holding some of the vehicles onboard.
There was an eerie feeling as we submerged below the gentle swell. The visibility was a lot more milky compared to the clear blue I was used to in the Red Sea. However, the wreck soon came into view as we dropped down the shot line. The first thing that struck me and in my opinion just made the wreck extra special, was the life on it.
Instantly, crocodile fish and scorpion fish were spotted resting on the wreck, as we made our way to the anti-aircraft gun on the stern. I made a quick visit to take some photos before we turned back and penetrated the wreck for the first time. A surreal experience but the numerous glassfish and lionfish at the entry point kept me entertained before seeing the remnants of yesteryear. The different vehicles that still keep their place in the decks are the main highlight, but it was the boots that struck a chord with me: signs of the human lives that were present on the fateful day the bomb hit. I got a real buzz from my first time on the Thistlegorm, with a school of batfish greeting us on our safety stop finishing off the adventure. John and I ascended from a great dive with a high five, knowing I’d fulfilled a special memory.
A blue spotted stingray makes a quick turn on top of the SS Thistlegorm, on a memorable night dive.
I enjoyed three more dives on the Thistlegorm, giving me chance to explore a little more and see a little more life. Some cool nudibranch and a cuttlefish making their home inside the wreck added to the array of life I’d already seen. It was the night dive that truly hit the marine life spot. It really came to life at night and I soon lost count of the amount of scorpionfish I saw. The contrast of the dark and wreck against the blue spotted stingrays made their colours really pop as around six or seven were spotted. Eels, lionfish and crocodilefish making up the rest of the weird and wonderful sights on the wreck at night. Amazing memories from my first time exploring the Thistlegorm that will last forever.
After the two morning dives on the Thistlegorm, we headed off to the Barge wreck site for an afternoon and night dive. It’s not much of a wreck when you compare it to the others on the trip. It lies like a flat platform on the seabed with some sides rising out from the reef providing extra space for coral growth and marine life to enjoy. While it doesn’t provide a real wreck fix with penetration, it is a haven for marine life, littered with all types of hard and soft corals. Look closely and the Barge is a great spot for the weird and wonderful. The numerous nudibranch and grey moray eels provided my macro fix on the night dives, while the occasional buzz from huge hunting giant trevally provided the entertainment. A nice contrast of wrecks before moving on to Abu Nuhas.
The stern of the Giannis D remains largely intact and provides a dramatic underwater scene.
Abu Nuhas is a really unique place. Its submerged reef has been bad luck for five passing ships, with five cargo shipwrecks lining its northern slopes. While it was more than unfortunate for some, the wrecks have provided fortune for those looking for a wreck diving haven. Our day consisted of diving three of the wrecks – The Carnatic, Giannis D and Marcus/Chrisoula K in that order.
Going into the trip, it was the Giannis D that I was most keen to dive. I’d always admired the wide angle stern shots I’d seen over the years, with it staying pretty much intact and creating a dramatic image as it lies on its side. It was a fantastic dive with some interesting and easy penetration; I also took some shots of the stern in all its glory. A huge grouper sitting inside the wreck provided the wildlife fix, as it floated with ease looking out into the blue from an opening on the wreck. I think it was the Carnatic that stole the show personally though. Her open windows out to the blue that are covered in soft coral were unique, and glassfish dancing in formation inside mesmerised into a truly memorable dive. The Marcus provided the adventure as penetration was a little more difficult to work my way through the wreck.
Bottlenose dolphins provided amazing entertainment as they came and played while we snorkelled at the surface.
The day at Abu Nuhas was the best of the trip for me and that wasn’t solely because of the wrecks….. YES!! Once again it was marine life that had me screaming with joy underwater and a buzz through my body like no other. FINALLY!!!!! After 9 years of taking photos underwater, I was able to share the water with dolphins (bottlenose in this instance) and shoot them in all their glory.
Our journey to and from the wrecks on each dive took us through the channel on the ribs, where dolphins were seen on every pass playing in the slight waves. After the second dive, the guides asked if we wanted to try to snorkel with them. It was a resounding yes and as the speedboat whipped up a wave storm, the dolphins headed to the surface to play. I dropped in with no elegance at all, as my excitement took over. I was wondering whether they would stay once we entered, but how they stayed and played was beyond anything I could imagine. Bringing seaweed to us and then, with a flick of their tails, speeding off after teasing with a slow approach. There were nine in total and they even came by to show off the baby of the group. It was definitely up there as one of my greatest moments in the water.
One of three cuttlefish seen on an amazing night dive, on the house reef of Roots Red Sea.
We finished the liveaboard trip with three more amazing reef dives, with the highlight being a small cave full of glassfish and MANY lionfish. I entered to take photos of the glassfish before the lionfish started to sneak out of every crevice and reveal themselves from their camouflaged rest spots.
It got a little hairy but made for a truly interesting moment to finish the week on Big Blue. The fun wasn’t done though, as John eluded to the fact that I was on the same late flight as them on the Saturday and asked if I’d like to join his group for a night at Roots Red Sea. Sounds like a good plan!! Also, if we got there in time, a night dive on the house reef that’s a haven for the weird and wonderful would be on offer. What an amazing surprise end to the trip at an amazing dive resort: secluded, with a beautiful desert backdrop, sitting just metres from the sea. Thankfully, we made it for a night dive and it was as incredible as John said it would be. Reef squid, numerous cuttlefish, a bouncing stonefish jumping over sea moths AND a dwarf lionfish made this one of the best night dives ever, and a perfect end dive to a perfect trip. A final day of relaxation at Roots pool and enjoying the beautiful food finished it in style.
For more information about diving on Big Blue:
Roots Red Sea lies in a secluded area of El Quseir, with a stunning desert backdrop and the Red Sea on their doorstop. It’s a perfect location for a relaxed dive trip.
The programme is one of the largest marine citizen science activities of its kind in the UK. Volunteers taking part will not only be clearing our beaches of litter, but help the Marine Conservation Society, the UK’s leading ocean membership charity, to gather vital data to create change for cleaner and healthier seas.
This year’s Great British Beach Clean is being sponsored by Ireland’s leading soup brand, Cully & Sully Soup, whose support is helping to raise awareness of marine litter and protect UK beaches from pollution.
To sign up for a beach clean, or organise your own, simply visit the charity’s website.
Key stats and facts
- At last year’s Great British Beach Clean, 5,416 volunteers conducted 428 beach cleans over 10 days, surveying 64,139 metres of coastline. A total of 129,391 pieces of litter were collected, filling 1,426 bags and weighing 7,476 kg.
- The Marine Conservation Society has recorded an average drop of 80% in carrier bags found on UK beaches since charges were introduced, showing that policies to reduce plastic work.
- Data collected during the Great British Beach Clean contributes toward the charity’s annual State of our Beaches report. Last year’s report recorded a 14% increase in drinks-related litter.
- The report also showed that nine out of 10 beach litter items found on beaches by Marine Conservation Society volunteers last year were made from plastic.
- Sewage plays a large part in the pollution problem. In 2023, over 29,500 sewage-related items, including more than 21,000 wet wipes, were recorded across the UK and Channel Islands, with sewage-related items present on 72% of surveyed beaches.
- Data from the Marine Conservation Society’s Great British Beach Clean contributes to a global database, International Coastal Cleanup.
Key messages:
- Data collected by volunteers during the Great British Beach Clean shows the positive result of policies like carrier bag charges, and how they work to reduce litter on our beaches.
- Plastic still remains the most common form of beach pollution – highlighting the urgent need for further action to tackle the single-use plastic problem such as charges, bans and deposit return schemes.
- The Marine Conservation Society is calling for governments across the UK implement world-class deposit return schemes for drinks containers including glass, plastic, and cans, without any further delay. Currently the proposed scheme is set to start in October 2027, but with Wales being the only country to include glass.
- The charity hopes that the recent bans on single-use plastics, such as cutlery, will lead to a noticeable reduction in the amount of single-use plastic cutlery polluting our beaches, much like the positive impact of the carrier bag charge.
- Sewage-related pollution, such as period products and wet wipes, are still prevalent on our beaches. Governments of the UK must turn the tide on pollution and end untreated sewage damaging our marine environment.
- You can support the charity by helping to clean up the UK’s beaches and collecting valuable data that supports efforts to address sewage pollution effectively.
ON THE DEPOSIT RETURN SCHEME:
Lizzie Price, Beachwatch Manager at the Marine Conservation Society: “It’s fantastic to see real-world evidence of the effectiveness of policies such as carrier bag charges in tackling pollution from single-use plastics. There’s no denying that these measures have helped to reduce litter on our beaches. However, we cannot afford to become complacent.
“Drinks-related litter, such as bottles and cans, were found on 97% of UK beaches surveyed last year. We need wider policies such as charges, bans, or deposits on more single-use items where possible, including the proposed deposit return schemes for plastic bottles, cans, and glass. We must keep moving towards a society that repairs, reuses, and recycles.”
ON SEWAGE POLLUTION:
Rachel Wyatt, the Marine Conservation Society’s Water Quality Policy & Advocacy Manager:
“Our seas cannot sustain the deluge of sewage that is being dumped into our waterways on a weekly basis. Our beach clean volunteers find thousands of sewage-related litter items washed up on the beaches every year, but it’s not just physical pollution that is harmful to us and marine life. Raw sewage contains a cocktail of bacteria, viruses, harmful chemicals, and microplastics which is a disaster for our ocean. Governments of the UK must turn the tide on pollution and end untreated sewage damaging our marine environment, so that we can all enjoy sewage-free seas.”
ON VOLUNTEERING:
Clare Trotman, Beachwatch Officer at the Marine Conservation Society, said: “The work we do at the Marine Conservation Society simply wouldn’t be possible without the dedication of our volunteers, who help gather crucial beach litter data. This information is invaluable in shaping scientific understanding and driving the changes needed to protect our precious marine environment.
“With beach cleans taking place all over the UK and Channel Islands, there are countless opportunities to get involved and support us this year. And if you can’t make it to the beach, you can still contribute by organising a local litter pick and survey in your area.”
Cully Allen from Great British Beach Clean sponsor, Cully & Sully Soup, said: “We are excited to be part of the UK’s biggest beach clean initiative for a third year. As a B Corp, doing good is at the core of what we do. We are always striving to do better internally as a business, but we really enjoy when we get to encourage and join our customers in doing good. We are looking forward to getting stuck into the beach cleans again this year, serving up our soup to the SOUPer volunteers and taking direct action on marine litter.”
The following beach cleans are currently set to take place:
| Date | Region | County | Beach & link |
| 20/09/2024 | Weston-Super-Mare | North Somerset, England | Uphill Beach |
| 20/09/2024 | Wirral | Cheshire, England | West Kirby Beach |
| 21/09/2024 | Weston-Super-Mare | North Somerset, England | Sand Bay Beach |
| 21/09/2024 | Cramond | Edinburgh, Scotland | Cramond Beach |
| 21/09/2024 | Aberdeen | Aberdeenshire, Scotland | Aberdeen City Beach |
| 22/09/2024 | Formby | Merseyside, England | Formby Beach |
| 23/09/2024 | Portsmouth | Hampshire, England | Southsea Beach |
| 25/09/2024 | Littlehampton | West Sussex, England | Littlehampton East Beach |
| 27/09/2024 | Swansea | Glamorgan, Wales | Swansea Beach |
| 27/09/2024 | Portstewart | Londonderry, N. Ireland | Portstewart Beach |
| 27/09/2024 | Cleethorpes | Lincolnshire, England | Cleethorpes Beach |
| 27/09/2024 | Brixham | Devon, England | St Mary’s Beach |
| 28/09/2024 | Rhoscolyn | Isle of Anglesey, Wales | Borth Wen Beach |
| 28/09/2024 | Charmouth | Dorset, England | Charmouth Beach |
| 29/09/2024 | Wallasey | Merseyside, England | New Brighton Beach |
Find more information about the Marine Conservation Society at www.mcsuk.org.
November 3 to 10, 2024 – aboard the Gallant Lady
October 19 to 26, 2025 – aboard the Nautilus Explorer
The Experience
From October to January, an extraordinary event unfolds in the nutrient-rich, vibrant blue waters off Magdalena Bay, where striped marlin gather to hunt during the second-largest sardine run in the world. This breathtaking underwater spectacle is one you won’t want to miss.
Set sail aboard the Nautilus Gallant Lady as we cruise along the stunning Baja California coastline. Our destination? The tranquil waters and outer islands of Magdalena Bay, where massive schools of sardines congregate. Each fall, an oceanic upwelling merges with warm waters, creating ideal conditions for these sardines in the shallow, cobalt-blue waters. These waters teem with life, featuring bait balls and predators such as seabirds, blue and mako sharks, sea lions, whales, dolphins, wahoo, and the fastest fish in the ocean—the striped marlin. With speeds reaching 50 mph (80 km/h), it’s a thrilling experience to be in the water next to a bait ball, watching marlin zoom past with their dorsal fins fully extended. You might also encounter pelicans, gulls, booby birds, frigate birds, shearwaters, and even the majestic albatross.
Trip Highlights
- Witness one of the world’s largest sardine hunts in Magdalena Bay
- Snorkel alongside striped marlin as they prepare for a feeding frenzy
- Chance to see California sea lions, dolphins, wahoo, and more
- Spot humpback whales and, if lucky, possibly orcas or blue whales
- Scuba dive the SS Independence and a WWI submarine wreck
- View pelicans, gulls, booby birds, frigates, shearwaters, and albatross
Pricing
November 3 to 10, 2024 on Gallant Lady
- Superior Suites: $3,670 USD per person (tax included) – 0 spots left
- Premium Suite: $4,195 USD per person (tax included) – 1 spot left
- $35 USD port fee (paid onboard)
October 19 to 26, 2025 on Nautilus Explorer
- 1 Triple room berth: $3,355 USD – 1 spot left
- 2 Single Suites: $4,455 USD – 2 spots left
- 2 Superior Suites: $3,775 USD per person (tax included) – 4 spots left
- 1 Standard Suite: $3,564 USD per person (tax included) – 4 spots left
- $35 USD port fee (paid onboard)
Inclusions
- Accommodation
- All meals: continental breakfast, breakfast, lunch, dinner, and dessert
- Non-alcoholic beverages and snacks
- Daily room service
- Towels and onboard facilities (including hot tub and lounge)
- Lots of fun!
Exclusions
- Airport transfer
- Bar and gift shop purchases
- Crew gratuities
- Internet access
- $35 USD port fee
Photography Coaching
Underwater photography coaching will be provided by Christopher Bartlett, the founder of Indigo Safaris and an experienced underwater photographer. Christopher’s work has been featured globally, and he has published over 100 articles on diving and marine conservation. His photography has appeared on numerous dive magazine covers. During the trip, Christopher will offer photography guidance, from basic to advanced lighting techniques for macro and wide-angle shots. He’ll help you set up your gear and process your images in Lightroom. Christopher has been leading Cetacean trips since 2015 and has extensive experience with species like sperm whales, humpbacks, sharks, sea lions, dolphins, and bait balls.
The Journey
Embark on the luxurious 116 ft, six-cabin expedition yacht, Nautilus Gallant Lady, and follow this remarkable migration across the Sea of Cortez. Whether you’re a snorkeler, swimmer, or diver, this trip caters to all experience levels. We’ll ensure you get ample time in the water with schools of mobula rays. Some encounters may last just minutes, while others could extend for over an hour—and sometimes, the rays may even welcome you into the middle of their formation. A bonus experience? Special night encounters with rays as they gather around our dive lights in shallow, protected bays.
Who is this trip for?
This adventure is perfect for both divers and snorkelers. While there are a couple of dive days, non-divers can enjoy the action through snorkeling. Most of the bait ball excitement is best experienced while snorkeling.
Day 1
Arrive at SeeCreatures Cabo by 4:30 pm. After boarding, we’ll set sail along the stunning Baja California coastline, heading toward the sheltered waters and outer islands of Magdalena Bay, home to the famous sardine run.
Day 2
Kick off the adventure with three dives at the southern end of Margarita Island, where you’ll explore sites that include playful sea lions and the remains of a steamship that sank in the early 1900s.
Days 3 – 6
It’s time to hunt for bait balls and jump into the water with striped marlin! This eco-tourism experience is a collaboration with local pangas and expert captains. Captain G and his family and friends are masters at locating bait balls, giving you the best chance for marlin encounters. Spend as much or as little time on the water as you like—the more time you invest, the more striped marlin sightings you’ll enjoy. Scuba diving is also a core part of the itinerary.
Magdalena Bay teems with life at this time of year. Alongside marlin, you could see whales, dolphins, turtles, sharks, and sea lions. Don’t miss the chance to explore the nearby mangroves and stunning sand dunes. For added adventure, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards (SUPs) will be available for your use.
Day 7
On the final day at Magdalena Bay, we’ll wrap up with three more dives, including a dive at the wreck of a WWI submarine and another sea lion encounter.
Day 8
Disembark at SeeCreatures Cabo after enjoying a final breakfast at 8:30 am.
The Vessel
Accommodating 12 passengers in six spacious suites, the Gallant Lady offers a luxurious and comfortable experience. The cabins are split between the lower and main decks, featuring five Superior Suites and one Premium Suite. Each suite is equipped with individually controlled air conditioning, a California king or two double beds, ample storage, and private en-suite bathrooms.
Superior Suites – Inde, Dofleini, Rosario, Nautilus & Swell
Two Superior Suites are located on the main deck, while the remaining three are on the lower deck. Four of these suites can be configured with either a California king bed or two double beds. Each suite includes a private en-suite bathroom with a shower and individually controlled A/C.
Premium Suite – Emerald
The spacious Premium Suite, located on the lower deck, offers flexibility with either a California king bed or two doubles. It also features a private en-suite bathroom with a full-sized bathtub.
Social Spaces
The Gallant Lady is designed with several comfortable social areas to help you unwind. The sky lounge on the top deck, complete with a hot tub, is the perfect spot to enjoy a cocktail after a day of adventure. Relax between dives on the sundeck, or take in the wrap-around views from the main salon and dining room, which also boasts a fully stocked bar.
The onboard chef prepares a delicious fusion of Mexican and West Coast North American cuisine, and all dietary requirements can be accommodated with advance notice.
For more information or to book, contact Indigo Safaris:
Email: safariexperts@indigosafaris.com
UK: +44 771 334 27 29
USA: +1 718 312 8777
France: +33 668 74 97 05
Skype: christopherbartlett
-
Blogs1 month agoGozo: An Underwater Treasure Trove in the Heart of the Mediterranean
-
News3 months agoMurex Bangka Announce New Oceanfront Cottages & Beachfront Dining
-
Gear Reviews2 months agoGear Review: Scubapro Luna 2 AI Dive Computer
-
Marine Life & Conservation3 months agoIceland issue millionaire whale hunter a licence to murder 128 vulnerable fin whales
-
Blogs2 months agoMamma Mia! Diving Skopelos (Part 1)
-
News2 months agoDived Up release NEW Second Edition of Diving Gozo & Comino by Richard Salter
-
Marine Life & Conservation3 months agoSHARK MONTH ARRIVES AT ROYAL WILLIAM YARD, PLYMOUTH
-
Blogs2 months agoAlonissos: The complete diving destination (Part 1)