Blogs
Diving into the World’s Fastest Tidal Rapids

In the mystical waters just north of Vancouver, Canada lies a narrow channel called the Skookumchuck Narrows, or simply “The Skook.” It’s a hidden gem in the Salish Sea that boasts a unique spectacle – a tumultuous dance of tides and currents that draws adventurers and spectators from far and wide.
Imagine this: a channel so narrow and shallow that a single tide can unleash an astonishing 200 billion gallons of water, creating a tumultuous display of standing waves, whirlpools, and currents surging at 16 knots (18 mph or 30 kph). Such speeds may seem mild when driving a car, but the erratic water is a different ballgame. Skookumchuck Narrows is a contender for the title of the world’s fastest tidal rapids, rivaled only by Nakwakto Rapids further up the British Columbia coast.

All photos were captured with a Nikon Z6 in an Ikelite underwater housing with Sea & Sea YS-D3 Mark II strobes.
But there’s a twist – this aquatic battleground isn’t just for adrenaline seekers; The Skook is an oasis for life beneath the waves. April 2023 marked a rare convergence of perfect conditions: a celestial alignment allowing divers to witness The Skook in all its glory. And who better to guide this daring expedition than Porpoise Bay Charters, a family-run venture led by the seasoned Kal Helyar and Ann Beardsell?
Raging currents = an abundance of life
The allure lies not in the danger but in the vibrant marine ecosystem fueled by the relentless currents. Ocean currents act as nature’s turbochargers, transporting nutrients that transform places like Skookumchuck Narrows into underwater havens with colorful life thriving amidst the rocky terrain.
It’s important to debunk the myth that this is a reckless plunge into chaos. Diving The Skook is not about courting danger but choosing the right moment: at slack when the tide turns, the water experiences minimal movement, and the currents are a mere 4-5 knots. Picture this – a scuba diver slipping gracefully between tidal changes, maneuvering with precision as the water changes its course and gradually picks up speed. Timing is everything, and finding the rare dates when daylight piercing through the emerald-green water coincides with navigable water conditions is critical. April 2023 granted us a mere handful of these golden days of nature’s alignment for the first time in four years.
Entering the abyss
As our vessel, under the watchful eye of Captain Kal, approached the infamous Skookumchuck rapids, a tangible excitement filled the air. These cold-water adrenaline-filled dives are the scuba diving equivalent to scaling Everest. The unpredictability of The Skook, where currents can whisk you in any direction, demanded respectful caution from our experienced salty crew.
With a reassuring smile, Captain Kal dismissed the notion of a toilet bowl experience, where divers are pulled in a circular direction by the currents as if flushed down a toilet. He emphasized that they only dived during an easy drift in the current, which was hard to fathom possible in such treacherous waters. Approaching the narrowest section of the channel, where the current was fastest, Kal’s experienced eyes scanned for the telltale signs of slack tide. Tidal ripples slowed, and we entered the water in the few precious minutes within the next year when it was possible to witness Skookumchuck in all its sunny glory.
As we descended into the underwater world, a mysterious algal bloom cast a dark green haze, unveiling a breathtaking palette of colors below. Bright red and pink anemones, neon orange encrusting sponges, and deep purple ochre sea stars adorned the rocky canvas, showcasing nature’s artistic prowess.
Surrendering to the sea
Descending further, we felt the force of the tide, like a river yet to subside. Gripping onto rock holds and kicking into the current, we felt like underwater rock climbers. Adjusting our underwater camera settings and getting comfortable with the flow of the water, we marveled at the transformation of the underwater landscape. Slabs of rock, once pounded by the current, now hosted a vibrant community of marine life.
After a mesmerizing twenty minutes of relatively gentle water, the current intensified, signaling the roller coaster drop ahead. We surrendered to neutrality, letting the current guide us along the wall. Boulders and back eddies added a touch of unpredictability; with trust in our abilities and Captain Kal’s promise of a safe pickup, the thrill was exhilarating rather than menacing.

A group of invertebrates are protected from the fast current by a crevice; the rest of the rocks sandblasted clean by the fast water.
As the current ebbed, we found ourselves in a tranquil cove adorned with green sea urchins, marking the end of our underwater odyssey. The Skook had shown us its splendor: a delicate balance of chaos and life beneath the surface – leaving us with memories as vivid as the colors we witnessed.
About the Author
Nirupam Nigam is a dedicated underwater photographer and fisheries scientist. While growing up in Los Angeles, he fell in love with the ocean and pursued underwater photography in the local Channel Islands. He received degrees in Aquatic and Fisheries Science and General Biology, as well as a minor in Arctic Studies, at the University of Washington. After working as a fisheries observer on boats in the Bering Sea and North Pacific, Nirupam became the Editor-in-Chief of the Underwater Photography Guide and the President of Bluewater Photo – the world’s top underwater photo & video retailer. Check out more of his photography at www.photosfromthesea.com!
US-based divers: explore more close-by dive destinations with Bluewater Dive Travel here.
All photos: Nirupam Nigam
Blogs
Dive the Richest Reefs in the World with the Pioneers of Raja Ampat

Papua Diving Resorts are the pioneers of sustainable tourism and diving in Raja Ampat. Our award-winning resorts are PADI Five Star and were the first exclusive dive resorts in the heart of the Dampier Strait. Where lush jungle meets clear, warm waters and the richest reefs on earth, let yourself embrace an escape like no other.
With over 30 years of operation in Raja Ampat and award-winning commitment to the people and environment of Papua, Papua Diving Resorts’ experience and impact are unrivalled. This makes us the natural choice for ocean enthusiasts.
Our founder, Max Ammer, has been diving and exploring Raja Ampat since 1990, discovering the dive sites the area is so famous for. Paying tribute to his family, Max named a few of the dive sites after his wife and children, including Melissa’s Garden and Mike’s Point, as well as coming up with quirky names like Chicken Reef and Sardine Reef because of his experiences while diving there for the first time.
Papua Diving Resorts is just a stone’s throw away from the famous Cape Kri, world record holder of most reef fish species counted on a single dive: 374 counted by ichthyologist Dr. Gerry Allen in 2012. In an interview, he said:
“One of my favorite places to dive in Raja Ampat is Cape Kri near Sorido Resort… I didn’t even have to look for fish. They found me! The survey was the highest species count I’ve ever tallied on one dive, 374 distinct species in 90 minutes!”

Photo: Anita Verde & Peter Marshall / Summits to Seas
Our dedicated team will make sure you see the best of Raja Ampat as we take you on incredible trips to the Fam Islands, Mushroom Islands and Manta points, just an hour away from our resorts. Experience Raja Ampat’s super reefs in a whole new light by joining the fluorescent dive and blackwater dives around Kri Island. Or simply enjoy a relaxing sunset and night dive where you can be sure to see the elusive mandarin fish and famous walking shark.
With Papua Diving Resorts, guests get the chance to experience the Last Paradise at the very first dive resort in the area. Here, qualified and experienced staff are committed to giving guests the best Raja Ampat has to offer through Papua Diving Resorts’ quality service, food, and excursions.

Photo: Renee Capazzola
OUR RESORTS
Papua Diving Resorts provides two world-class options to stay on Kri Island: the more traditional Kri Eco Resort, and upscaled boutique Sorido Bay Resort.
Sorido Bay Resort is our luxury boutique option
Perfect for those who want a touch of luxury, Sorido Bay Resort is a collection of 9 charming bungalows with spacious rooms and ensuites, each with Wi-Fi, AC and fan and a veranda that overlooks a vibrant house reef. The private resort faces the Papuan sunrise, basking the island in a warm glow for a beautiful day in Indonesia’s Crown Jewel. Indulge in community-style meals at the sea-view restaurant that overlooks the turquoise waters of the house reef and Sorido Blue Hole beyond. If you’re lucky, you might spot a pod of dolphins or even whales with your morning coffee or afternoon tea.

Photo: Don Silcock
Sorido Bay Resort also houses the world’s first Raja Ampat SEACAM Center (RASC), where you can take your underwater photography to a new level. Take advantage of yearly underwater photography workshops led by award winning SEACAM Ambassador, Don Silcock. The seven-day structured classroom and in-water workshop sessions will take you through specially curated dive sites, where you’ll put into practice the insights and techniques you’ve learned. At the RASC, you can also take advantage of our inventory of SEACAM gear and equipment and try them out for a dive.
For a few weeks throughout the year, SEACAM Ambassadors will also be available on-site at our resorts for any personalized guidance, according to your needs and equipment. Take the chance to troubleshoot any camera equipment technicalities or simply learn from the best in the industry through weekly presentations during your stay.
The resident SEACAM Ambassador program will commence in July 2025 with Don Silcock at Sorido Bay from July 6 to August 19, 2025. The program will expand in 2026 with regular visits by both Don and other SEACAM Ambassadors, so stay tuned!
Kri Eco Resort is where paradise meets sustainability
Looking out over the dark blue waters of the Dampier Strait and distant mountain ranges, Kri Eco Resort is a cluster of authentic Papuan-style water bungalows built from locally sourced materials with 3 room types to choose from—two of which have communal bathrooms. The 13 cottages come with Wi-Fi, electric fans for still nights, and direct access to Kri’s vibrant house reef. The over-water sun deck area faces the Papuan setting sun, creating the picture-perfect spot for bright orange sunsets. With a more in-touch-with-nature feel, Kri Eco Resort bungalows allow guests to fully enjoy the cool sea breeze and natural beauty paradise has to offer.
Regardless of where you stay, you can be sure to experience the rich biodiversity of Raja Ampat. Enjoy looking down from our jetty into the crystal-clear waters of the house reef, where you can spot stingrays, blacktip reef sharks, and turtles, and if you’re lucky even some dolphins and dugongs swimming by.

Photo: A.E. Lotak
The resort grounds are also rich with land creatures such as monitor lizards, cuscus, even kingfisher birds and sea eagles. Embrace your adventurous side and take a kayak out to the sandbar that appears during low tide, or a hike through the jungles that sit between the two resorts.

Photo: Luca Vaime
Wherever you choose to book with us, guests at Papua Diving Resorts can enjoy the community coming together through a shared passion, sharing stories with divers and adventurers alike during mealtimes and excursions.
CONSERVATION
By staying at Papua Diving Resorts, you become part of the effort to protect this beautiful yet fragile environment. From offering schooling and sustainable employment for indigenous people, to boosting shark populations, Papua Diving Resort’s aim is to leave this world better than we found it.
Providing education and training to the local indigenous Papuan villagers is a part of our mission at Papua Diving Resorts, through which they can take the skills and knowledge and apply it to their livelihoods.

Photo: David Doubilet
When Max arrived in Raja Ampat, he found a community that depended on shark and ray finning to provide for their families. To encourage a more sustainable approach to earning a living, Max employed and upskilled the locals through teaching them boatbuilding, woodworking and guiding guests to experience all that Paradise has to offer.
Creating partnerships with locals in the nearby villages, Max sought to provide one-of-a-kind guest experiences to see and photograph the Red and Wilson Bird of Paradise, seen only in Raja Ampat. Aligned with our mission at Papua Diving Resorts to protect nature and empower the local people, a portion of our proceeds go back to these local partnerships.

Photo: LHS
As leaders in conservation and pioneers of sustainable tourism and diving in Raja Ampat, Papua Diving Resorts offers guests an unforgettable opportunity to experience the best of Indonesia’s Crown Jewel. Located at the heart of the Dampier Strait, we invite you to explore the rich biodiversity of the area, both above and underwater.
Underwater Photography Workshops at the Raja Ampat SEACAM Center
July 20-26 & August 10-16, 2025
SEACAM Ambassador Don Silcock on-site at Sorido Bay Resort
July 6 – August 19, 2025
Reach out to our team to find out more about how the resident SEACAM Ambassadors can help you with your underwater photography skills and goals during your stay.

Photo: Anita Verde & Peter Marshall / Summits to Seas
SPECIAL OFFER
Receive a 10% discount when you book direct for stays during the period of June – September 2025
BOOK NOW
info@papua-diving.com
www.papua-diving.com

Photo: Scotty Graham
Main Image: Don Silcock
Blogs
Beach Builders of the Reef: The Parrotfish’s Hidden Role

Take a closer look at one of Wakatobi Resort’s most valuable yet often overlooked marine inhabitants: the parrotfish.
Among the thousands of marine species found in Wakatobi’s waters, none are more prevalent than the parrotfish. This keystone species, a relative of the wrasses, plays a vital role in maintaining reef health and even creating the sandy beaches that line tropical shores. Without parrotfish, the balance of coral ecosystems would be disrupted, and beach formations would diminish. But before exploring their impact, it’s worth understanding what makes these creatures so fascinating.

Up to 35 species of parrotfish can be found on Wakatobi’s reefs, including the bumphead, known for it’s larger size, bulbous forehead, and exposed teeth plates. Photo by Wayne MacWilliams
Estimates suggest there are between 80 and 90 known species of parrotfish. Earlier classifications listed more than 300 varieties, largely due to the fish’s remarkable ability to change color, shape, and even sex throughout their lives. This trait has led to a diverse range of names, from the Midnight parrotfish (Scarus coelestinus) to the Rainbow parrotfish (Scarus guacamaia) and the Green Humphead parrotfish (Bolbometopon muricatum).

A juvenile bicolor parrotfish lounges on the reef. Photo by Christian Gloor
Coral Crunchers in Action
Wakatobi’s reefs are home to 35 parrotfish species, often spotted along the upper reef slopes or in nearby seagrass beds. Their name comes from their vivid colors and their fused teeth, which form a beak-like structure ideal for scraping algae from coral. Behind this dental armor lies a second set of molar-like teeth that grind coral fragments to extract tiny algae and polyps.
The sound of parrotfish crunching on coral is a common underwater soundtrack at Wakatobi. While algae are their primary food source, parrotfish also consume sponges, worms, and other small reef dwellers. The coral they ingest is ground into fine particles and later expelled as sand—helping to form the very beaches that make Wakatobi such a breathtaking destination.

A juvenile bicolor parrotfish lounges on the reef. Photo by Christian Gloor
Nature’s Sand Factories
Each parrotfish produces an estimated 10 ounces (280 grams) of sand per day, amounting to around 220 pounds (100 kilograms) per year. On reefs with healthy parrotfish populations, this adds up to approximately one ton of sand per acre annually. Beyond building beaches, the sand they produce creates habitats for burrowing animals and helps maintain reef equilibrium by preventing algae from overwhelming coral formations.
Global parrotfish populations are declining in some regions due to overfishing, but Wakatobi’s protected marine reserve ensures these essential reef caretakers thrive. The resort’s ongoing dedication to conservation has created a sanctuary where parrotfish and countless other marine species flourish.

A bumphead parrotfish munches away on corals. Photo by Werner Fiedler
Nighttime Secrets
Divers visiting Wakatobi are almost guaranteed to encounter parrotfish during every dive, ranging from small one-foot varieties to the four-foot bumphead parrotfish. Those who venture out at dusk may witness a unique behavior—parrotfish creating their mucous sleeping cocoons. This protective bubble is thought to mask the fish’s scent from predators and parasites, providing a fascinating spectacle for night divers.
Despite their commonplace appearance, parrotfish are anything but ordinary. On your next dive, take a moment to appreciate these industrious reef architects. Identifying their various species can be a rewarding challenge, and they always make engaging photo subjects. Most importantly, remember that the very beach beneath your feet owes much of its beauty to the unassuming parrotfish.

A school of longnose parrotfish grazes Wakatobi’s reef. The fish at the upper right is discharging sand. Photo by Rich Carey
For more information on exploring Wakatobi’s reefs, email office@wakatobi.com, visit wakatobi.com or follow Wakatobi Resort on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube.
Header Image: Erik Schlogl
- Gear Reviews3 months ago
Gear Review: SurfEars 4
- Blogs3 weeks ago
GO Diving Show 2025: The Monster Mark Evans Created (And Why the Industry Loves It)
- News1 month ago
Humpback Mother and Calf Win Underwater Photographer of the Year 2025
- News1 month ago
Go Diving Show 2025 Exhibitor Showcase
- Marine Life & Conservation1 month ago
ARC marine Celebrates “Commended” Award at Underwater Photographer of the Year with reef cube image
- News2 months ago
2-for-1 tickets now available for GO Diving Show
- News1 month ago
Filming 360 in The Bahamas
- News2 months ago
Exclusive Shark Diving Adventure in the Maldives – Last Female Space Available!