Travel Stories
Diving the Coral Triangle
There are many reasons to visit the Indonesian archipelago, but a big reason is diving due to the various locations available. After all, Indonesia is located in the “Coral Triangle” within the marine waters of Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Solomon Islands and Timor-Leste – a region with more than 500 reef-building coral species and an epicenter of marine biodiversity. Geographically, Indonesia has 17,500 islands scattered over both sides of the equator and spread out in an area that is over 700,000 square miles. You’ll find some of the finest reefs in the world there, but the main reason for my trip to Indonesia was to try muck diving in Lembeh Strait – North Sulawesi.
Getting it “Strait”
Just the word “muck” evokes images like the Pines River in Revere, Massachusetts which usually (if not always) has dark, murky water – to see the bottom your face must be less than a foot away from it. But the Pins River is only 50 miles from home. Lembeh Strait in North Sulawesi is over 9,000 miles away. It’s been two years since my last visit to Indonesia but I’ve been anxious to return and see more of the underwater beauty.
Although Lembeh Strait was at the top of my list, I also considered stops on Bunaken Island as well as Raja Ampat, West Papua. Bunaken Island is known to have excellent wall diving and Raja Ampat is known for having very healthy coral reefs and many species of fish.
So, I started planning and lucky for me a Google search turned up www.divesafariasia.co.uk. Ben Stokes, co-owner of the company, was offering a Trans-Indonesian trip that sounded perfect, and it was. I contacted Ben and he later phoned me that evening to go over details as the trip was departing in less than a month, and there was one spot left. Lembeh Strait was not part of his group trip, but he kindly offered to set up that portion for me, and I would simply go and meet the group the following week in Bunaken Island. By mid-November 2013, I was heading to Indonesia for 18 days.
Ben set up Kungkungan Bay Resort for me on the black sand shore of Lembeh Strait. This is a luxury sea level resort with a professionally run dive shop on-site. The accommodations are superb; a beach front cottage just steps from the water. It had a living room and a large separate bedroom that had a walk in stone shower – and its location is picture-perfect. The resort’s restaurant is open 24 hours with a full-service menu. There is wide variety of deliciously prepared food of quality ingredients. They even smoked their own bacon! The professional and friendly staff ensures you will have a pleasant stay at KBR.
Boat and Shore Diving
The dive operation www.divekbr.com is run very smoothly by Manager Stefan Soh. They offer two boat dives in the morning, one afternoon boat dive and a night dive. There is unlimited shore diving from the long dock, so you never get sand in your gear. All you have to do is let the staff know that you will be going on a “shore” dive. They will have all your gear ready for you on the dock where you will be doing a giant stride in the water. When you are done with your dive there is a ladder to climb out. The staff is always there to help with getting in and out of the water. Shore diving from KBR is done at slack water only due to the currents – but it’s really the current that drives great visibility and fosters an abundance of strange and wonderful critters.
The term “muck” has been used to describe the diving in Lembeh Strait, but that’s really a misnomer. Here’ “muck” simply refers to the black sand, lack of natural hiding spots, and a stark environment many critters have adapted to live and thrive in. So it was quick to see that visibility is far from zero.
Lembeh Strait is sometimes called a muck diving mecca – and for good reason – it’s the reason divers from all corners of the globe go search of the most unusual critters. It did not take long to discover that any critter with odd shapes, copious amounts of hair, psychedelic colors, deadly poisons, cunning camouflage (or prefers to carry other marine life on its back) will simply thrive in Lembeh Strait.
My first dive was a site called Palau Abadi located close to shore across from the very busy city port of Bitung. The site is also next to many fishing boats that were moored. My first thought was; “What could possibly be here besides floating debris?” We all did our back roll and descended to the black sandy bottom, but the visibility was far better than I initially pictured in my mind.
The action started right away when my dive guide Liberty pointed out a peacock mantis shrimp, a juvenile painted frog fish, a xeno crab on sea whip, then an orangutan crab, a frog fish, a sea whip goby, a ghost pipefish, a blue ring octopus, a shrimp fish, a Lembeh Sea Dragon, and a Cuttlefish egg with the developing embryo – all in the first twenty minutes of the first dive. The action just continued throughout the day and the remainder of my stay at Kungkungan Bay Resort.
When we visited sites like Jahir I, Aer Bajo II and III, or TK 3, there wasn’t any coral and the bottom was black sand only. These locations offered visibility around 20 feet, but I also saw the strangest marine life. On the other hand, dive sites like Nudi Retreat offered a wall covered in hard coral and yellow soft coral. Dive site Angles Window had a wall covered in hard corals, and at 80 feet there was a swim-through with a resident pigmy seahorse. Across from the resort was a dive site named Pintu Colada where we experienced a sandy slope with critters. After finishing the dive in the shallows, there were several healthy coral heads to swim around in the bright shallow water. These dive sites had visibilities that exceed 50 feet. Pintu Colada was also the site of the Mandarin fish dive. This was my first Mandarin dive and we were not disappointed. Several large Mandarin fish greeted us for their mating ritual – this dusk to night dive was truly spectacular.
During the initial dive briefing, the manager invited us to suggest any particular critters that we wanted to see. I arrived with a wish list of “critters” – 32 in fact – and 75% were nudibranchs. The first day of diving, I just wanted to get in the water to see what it was all about. It was incredible, and my guide showed me so much that I practically forgot about my list. When I looked back at the list that evening, the most sought after for me was the “boxer crab”. I couldn’t stand the thought of going home without seeing it, but the following day during the afternoon dive the boxer crab was unveiled in all its radiance.
I saw things there that I never thought I would ever see. It was almost common to see several Blue ring octopus, different species of pygmy sea horses, ghost, banded and robust pipefish, soft coral crabs just to name a few.
Moving Past Lembeh Strait
The second leg of my trip required a three hour drive to Tasik Ria Resort where I would finally meet up with Ben Stokes from Dive Safari Asia. From this point on, I was traveling with Ben and a group of 15 diving at Bunaken Island, and then off to Raja Ampat.
I only had one day of diving Bunaken Island. The spacious dive boat leaves in the morning and stays out near Bunaken Island all day. Lunch is served for all the divers during the surface interval. The dive boat’s guides give a descriptive briefing and are safety conscious. There were four divers to one guide.
The diving here involved gorgeous wall diving with tiny critters sprinkled about. The wall itself is basically vertical and there is some current to contend with, but the visibility was at least 100 feet. There were huge barrel sponges, gorgonians, and big stands of staghorn coral along with giant turtles. There was also smaller stuff including colorful ascidians, soft coral, nudibranchs and more. It was amazing to look around and see all the life.
Round Three
The third leg of the trip involved a late day flight from Manado, North Sulawesi to Sorong, West Papua. During this two hour flight we crossed the equator into the southern hemisphere. We spent a memorable evening at the one and only Royal Mamberamo Hotel in Sorong.
The following morning, we had a two hour speedboat ride to Mansuar Island in the area known as Raja Ampat and stayed at the Raja Ampat Dive Lodge (www.komodoalordive.com) located on a brilliant white sandy beach with the verdant green mountain backdrop. The cottages were very comfortable with good food and a friendly staff.
The location and setting of this dive resort was absolutely gorgeous. It also had a fantastic house reef, though all of the house reef dives were done by boat (again, sand never ended up in any gear). The crew would have us board the boat at the dock, and the captain would either drop us at the end of the long dock or drop us off further up the reef and then follow our bubbles. We would usually have two guides in the water with two or three divers per guide. The briefings for each dive site were very informative, well-illustrated, and well-planned. Our guides were Dovan and Roy, they did a great job pointing out critters during each dive.
The boat schedule included two dives in the morning and one in the afternoon with a choice of evening or night dive before dinner. After the morning boat dives, we would stop at an uninhabited island or village for our surface interval which included coffee, tea or water along with fresh fruit and baked snacks. One day we visited Arborek Island and had our second boat dive of the day there. It was a fantastic location with a huge variety of marine life. We had macro critters pointed out to us, witnessed giant clams, and watched a school of Napoleon Wrasse foraging in the shallows before parading off to deeper water.
Another fantastic site worth mentioning is Frewins Wall. I could have spent several days at that one site. It started out as a slope with hundreds of tiny yellow sea cucumbers, but the highlight was a deep cut/overhang that the current took us by. This overhang went on and on with soft coral just draping out of the wall with black coral and gorgonians. It ended with a shallow shelf where we spent some time observing anemones with resident clown fish swimming about; just beautiful.
Raja Ampat had a lot of odd critters, and some were difficult to make out. One of the oddities was a hermit crab with tiny anemones growing on its shell, then the half-inch red crab that looked like it didn’t have legs, but closer observation showed me that the legs were clear. Then, in the white sand, Dovan pointed out a sandy colored 2×1/2-inch flat worm-like critter, but a closer look showed me that it was a tiny flat crab – and these were all spotted on the night dives.
Good Planning and Great Guides
This was truly a fantastic trip! Ben really knows how to put a well-organized dive trip together. It was a long journey but he made everything seem effortless. I enjoyed every aspect of this trip and having him as a guide.
Dive Safari Asia run their ‘Trans Indonesia Tour’ twice a year. The next dates for the trip are:
7th – 23rd November 2014
20th March – 5th April 2015
For more information or to book, call 0800 955 0180 or visit www.divesafariasia.com.
October and November are excellent months to visit Egypt, as they offer pleasant water temperatures and comfortable conditions on land. Divers can explore prime dive sites in the northern Red Sea, including the iconic SS Thistlegorm shipwreck and the breathtaking underwater topography at Shark & Yolanda Reef in Ras Mohammed National Park. Additionally, visitors can take advantage of direct flights from the UK to Marsa Alam, which serves as a gateway to bucket list adventures and thrilling shark dives in the Southern Red Sea.
The Red Sea offers an unforgettable experience both above and below the water. Every year, thousands of visitors are captivated by this area’s unique blend of spectacular marine life, welcoming climate, and stunning scenery.
A World-Renowned Dive Region 5 Hours Away…
An endless variety of marine life draws divers from across the globe to the warm waters of the Red Sea. For UK divers, this world-renowned destination is just a short flight away. With outstanding water clarity and permanent sunshine, the Red Sea offers the chance to explore its magical underwater world year-round.
The sheer abundance of vibrant marine life and corals is what sets the Red Sea apart. Divers and snorkellers can witness an impressive range of invertebrates, including over 200 different types of hard and soft corals, crustaceans, sponges, and hundreds of spectacular fish species.
This incredible variety is further enhanced by the Red Sea’s dramatic underwater landscapes, featuring steep walls, drop-offs, shipwrecks, and deep blue canyons.
Which Red Sea Destination to Choose…
Regaldive provides a choice of ten Egyptian Red Sea resorts, along with a range of liveaboard options for those seeking to explore further. Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada, and Marsa Alam are the gateways to the Red Sea, each offering a unique and distinct charm.
Hurghada presents a glimpse of authentic Egypt, with an excellent selection of dive sites located just a short boat ride away. The smaller resorts of El Gouna and Safaga are ideal for exploring the northern reefs and wrecks while being within easy reach of Hurghada.
The stunning coastline south of Hurghada has become a haven for tranquil, pristine diving. Direct flights into Marsa Alam throughout the winter have made it easier to access the impressive marine parks of the southern Red Sea.
For those seeking ultimate seclusion, the southernmost resort of Hamata offers unparalleled diving within relatively undisturbed reef systems.
The Choice is Yours…
No matter which destination is selected, a Red Sea holiday promises a blend of fantastic diving, beach relaxation, and cultural exploration. With over seven centuries of history, Egypt offers so much more than just diving.
The Red Sea is an ideal starting point for visiting the iconic Pyramids, taking a day trip to Cairo, star gazing with the Bedouins, or visiting the breathtaking city of Luxor on the banks of the Nile. The stunning scenery of the region features the rich seas contrasting with the stark beauty of the desert.
Whether the holiday is spent mostly above or below the waterline, disappointment is unlikely.
Regaldive also offers a variety of resorts and liveaboards in the Red Sea, providing everything a diver could desire. For a blend of experiences, their mini dive safaris combine liveaboard and resort-based diving, while land-based liveaboard trips allow guests to explore Sharm el Sheikh’s diving highlights while staying in beachside cabins.
Find out more about the diving Regaldive have to offer in the Red Sea here.
The Maltese island of Gozo lies at the heart of the Mediterranean and, despite its diminutive size, it punches well above its weight as a world-class diving destination. So, what is it that’s so magical about Gozo and the surrounding sea that, like the bioluminescent light of an angler fish, draws in divers from far and wide?
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Standing on the bastions of the UNESCO-rated medieval citadel at the centre of this tiny tranquil idyll, you can see nearly 50km of enticing curvaceous coastline circumscribing this golden island. Crystal-clear waters lap at Gozo’s shore which boasts a wealth of dive sites in every direction – the colours shift smoothly from a transparent jade over white sand to a rich sapphire blue over the deeps beyond, and all promise spectacular visibility. Raise your eyes from the warm azure water, and you’ll spot Gozo’s sister Comino, a short boat ride away, with yet more underwater wonders.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
It’s no wonder that the ancient Greek myths tell of how, when Odysseus came here, he stayed for seven years. You might hear tell that he was captivated by the sea-nymph Calypso but we know better: surely it was the lure of the sea and the beauty beneath the surface that kept him entranced!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Zoom in to Xlendi, the island’s most picturesque fishing village, acclaimed for its scenic bay: it’s a charming cove nestled between dramatic cliffs. Here, just steps away from the water’s edge, you’ll find Gozo Dive (formerly St Andrews), a dynamic, professional dive centre which caters comprehensively for every level of diver, from the exuberant 8-year old or the nervous beginner to the avid advanced open water diver and established experts with bulging log-books under their weight-belts.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Xlendi Bay itself is a marvel – whether for a shake-out dive on its gently sloping sands, or for something more dramatic. Underwater, it’s spectacular, with inner and outer reefs, a towering pinnacle, a secret tunnel into an open water cave, and the criss-crossed ropes of the boats on one side of the bay that add a ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ flavour for those with a whimsical leaning.
Xlendi’s deeper waters are also home to the world’s first deepwater archaeological park where a Phoenician shipwreck dating back to the 7th century BC lies 110 metres below the surface. Although some intrepid divers head down to see this for real, most people view this wreck and its ancient amphora on screen inside the historic watchtower that stands on guard at the entrance to the bay. (Standing above Roman salt pans, traditionally used to harvest sea salt, this tower dates back to the Knights of Malta for whom it provided protection against pirates, deterring smugglers and quarantine evaders. It was also used as an observation deck during World War II, when the entire Maltese Islands were awarded The George Cross for bravery by King George VI.)
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
With a 30-year history of excellence, and a friendly international team of professional instructors, Gozo Dive offers guided diving for everyone, all year round, whatever your ambition whether that’s simply a 1 day try dive you’re after, Advanced Open Water Diver, Rescue Diver or specialty courses. Training packages available include PADI, SSI, RAID & SDI/TDI for adults and children, and technical, CCR & instructor courses too, all personalised as you wish. Fancy developing your underwater photography or learning Trimix techniques to explore deeper dive sites with the use of helium-based breathing mixtures? Rebreather courses or looking to build up 30 or more rebreather hours before your MOD2? No problem. With a dedicated Tech Room, Gozo Dive have it all covered.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Gozo Dive will welcome you – in English, French, Italian, German, Spanish or Maltese – as a solo diver, a family or a large group, and with the brand-new deluxe Gozo Dive Residence on the hillside just above Gozo Dive, they’ll can make life easy for you with a fully organized dive & stay package (complete with airport transfers). Designed for divers, these brand-new self-catering apartments have stunning bay-view balconies, a breathtaking roof-top plunge pool, air conditioning and powerful WiFi.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Beyond Xlendi, North, South, East and West, Gozo is a playground of caves, tunnels, reefs, and wrecks whatever the direction of the waves and wind. Most dives are accessible from the shore; others, Gozo Dive reaches with its own purpose-built spacious boat. Stay in the shade, as you whip across the waves!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
The Blue Hole is the most famous dive site on Gozo, an extraordinary rock chimney with a giant window to the ocean sixteen metres below the surface, from which you can venture out into Gozo’s Coral Gardens and Coral Cave or over a seabed scattered with giant boulders and geological intrigue. Just 100 metres away, The Inland Sea is another extraordinary spot, a green-blue lake surrounded by rock, from which you can follow a shallow tunnel to the cerulean blue beyond. For Game of Thrones fans, this rocky outcrop, ‘Dwejra’, is the location at which the wedding between the Dothraki warlord Khal Drogo and Khaleesi Daenerys Targaryen, was filmed. (You could also, on your final afternoon before you fly home, visit Malta’s ancient city of Medina, to see the Entrance Gate and streets, and squares of King’s Landing.)
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Perhaps lesser known, but equally striking, on Gozo’s Northern coast, Cathedral Cave is reached by following an ‘underwater stairway’ of momentous boulders that leads into a large cave, to enjoy both above and below the water. Into this vast dome of rock, light floods from below whilst fresh air reaches you through a crack in the rock and the water’s a vivid blue. Surfacing here is a fantastical experience and an amazing photo opportunity.
There’s nothing like a wreck emerging from the seabed to trigger the imagination: at the MV Karwela, a 1950s passenger ferry from Valletta’s Grand Harbour sitting upright on the sand to the south of the island, the light dapples through the windows and wooded slats. Its classic split stairway evokes thoughts of the Titanic!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
Then over on the remote island of Comino, the P31 is a decommissioned military patrol boat, scuttled at 21m for divers of all levels. It’s home to many fish and other marine life; and Gozo Dive guides will lead you through the interconnecting Santa Marija Caves with its slashed-rock Z-for-Zorro swim through. And that’s just for starters.
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
If you’re dreaming of a trip to Gozo but some of the family prefer to stay on the surface, snorkelling is an option at many of the dive sites. Alternatively, in Xlendi, there’s a small sandy beach and two swimming areas with lifeguards for splashing and diving. You can hire pedalos and stand-up paddle boards, and it’s a great starting point for coastal walks. Even the smallest legs can follow the secret path to Karolina’s Cave, a hidden sea cave used by nuns to access the sea in privacy. Oh, and Xlendi has the best ice-cream in Malta!
Email: info@gozodive.com / Tel: +35621551301 / Web: www.gozodive.com
(And should you – however unlikely it seems – decide to put your fins to one side for an afternoon, reliable regular buses deliver you to Victoria, the island’s main town, in less than ten minutes. Or because this gemstone of an island is only pocket-sized, Uber and the local equivalents, can transport you wherever you want to go in mere moments!)
Take the plunge and book your Gozo adventure, for this year or next, today!
Contact Gozo Dive Now:
Email: info@gozodive.com
Tel: +35621551301
Web: www.gozodive.com
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