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Dive Indonesia : Murex Manado Trip Report
The Scuba Place spent January 2023 exploring four different resorts in Indonesia hosting a group of divers. This is Part Three of their four part Trip Report on Murex Manado. Read Part One on Lembeh Resort here and Part Two on Murex Bangka here.
All good things come in three’s right?
Well, with the Passport to Paradise itinerary, and the extremely well-thought-out and excellently executed travel programme, we have to agree!
Moving on from Murex Bangka to Murex Manado was the same format as from Lembeh to Bangka… bags outside the room before breakfast, a yummy breakfast, board the dive boat, and off we go – 2 dives on the way with surface interval snacks and drinks in between, and then, as if by magic (gratuitous Mr Ben segue) we arrived at Murex Manado.
We arrived by dive boat at the new marina and jumped into the vans for a quick 15-minute transfer to the resort. When we arrived, our bags had already been delivered to our rooms and our selected welcome drink was delivered. A much-needed shower was followed by welcome cocktails and snacks in the restaurant, an open-sided building right in the centre of the resort. More cocktails followed, and then more, and then dinner, and then sleep.
Murex Manado is the most developed of the three resorts on the itinerary – perhaps because it is on the mainland, but it is still a very intimate and relaxed place to stay. Set in beautiful tropical water gardens right on the seafront, with stunning views across the bay to Bunaken and the marine park, there are only 11 rooms, each sleeping two adults comfortably in big double or twin beds. Each room is air-conditioned, with an open-air bathroom and a patio with day bed seating. Nine of the rooms overlook the beautiful gardens, and two are set right by the pool.
On our first morning, after a pre-ordered cooked breakfast which some people didn’t remember ordering the night before, off we set for our morning of diving in the Bunaken Marine Park. We had amazing muck diving in Lembeh, followed by reefs and muck in Bangka so we were craving some ‘big stuff’, and Boy Oh Boy – did Bunaken deliver!
Established in 1991 by the Indonesian Government, the marine park is an incredible success, and it is not only turtles that gather – dolphins are seen almost every day from the dive boats, dugongs frequent the shallow and sheltered areas for the sea grasses that grow so well here, and whales pass through the straits on a regular basis.
Giant clams are found here – and not just your average giant clam – but 7 of the 8 species in the world are found in these waters, together with over 30 species of butterfly fish, and amazingly, 70% of all the fish species that are in the Indo-Western Pacific can be found here in Bunaken.
It really is a phenomenal place to dive – big drifts or a gentle bimble are easy to find, and there is so much to see – huge sponges, walls just smothered with corals and colours, green turtles EVERYWHERE – and for the fan of all things small and crittery (made up word but I really like it), the sponges and corals are full of crabs, shrimps and little beasties, making these walls dives great for macro photographers too.
Lunch back at the resort after a morning of diving, as it was time for a well-earned meal. Salads, fruits, Indonesian curries and other specialities, together with burgers, pizza, fish of the day and the like are all on offer, and always a dessert too!
So, that is the first half of the day taken care of………what to do in the afternoons?
Well – a snooze is always a favourite for me, but there is the option to go back and dive Bunaken even more, or stroll into the waters of Manado Bay from the beach – you will find a dark sandy sea bed and plenty of tiny things – this is critter diving right on your doorstep! Or the dive boats will take you to local reefs or even go out looking for dolphins or dugong.
The pool is also lovely – right on the water’s edge, with sunbeds and bar service – if you need to off-gas a little then this is the perfect place – and the wifi works well here too, so catching up on the real world can be done if you possess masochistic tendencies.
Then dinner. Then sleep. Then repeat – it really is that simple.
So, in a nutshell, this is a top-notch dive destination with insanely good diving! A super relaxed and small resort, with great food (and cocktails) and seriously impressive dive guides too. What more could anyone want?
We will be back – and probably far more than once. This ‘Passport to Paradise’ itinerary is genius and gives a brilliant blend of diving across the three unique destinations. Lembeh is undoubtedly the very best for critters and all things that live in the muck. Bangka gives a lovely blend of pretty reefs and critters on the sandy seabed. And Manado gives us Bunaken – phenomenal reef and wall diving – some of the very best we have done – and then the chance to see whales, dolphins and much more.
So, which was our favourite?
We are always asked ‘Where is the best place to go?’ or derivatives of such, and the answer is always incredibly hard. A single dive can make a whole trip in some instances, but pound for pound, Indonesia is now my personal favourite place to go.
I loved Lembeh – it is more upmarket, offers gourmet food, and has mind-blowing macro diving. As a newbie to a macro lens, I had a blast here. Bangka was awesome – a wonderfully chilled and relaxing destination – powder-soft sand, beachfront rooms, lovely people and really nice diving.
But for me, all things considered, Murex Manado took the title of ‘Best of the Three’ for this trip. The diving offered everything – from macro to mega-fauna, and all in a super-bright colourful and healthy marine environment – it is very much a destination in itself, and I would go back here time and time again, and maybe add on a little extension to Lembeh at the same time! Indonesia itself is stunning – beautiful scenery, and beautiful people, and we personally love the food too.
The Government have got some things very right – the marine park for example, but we have to tip our hats to and shout out about Murex – they are totally committed to the environment, both above and below the waves. They clean their beaches, clean their reefs, educate the locals through structured programmes, recycle everything they can and waste as little as possible, use solar power, and you won’t find a plastic straw or bottle in any of their resorts.
If you are thinking of where to go next, then the ‘Passport to Paradise’ itinerary gives you a brilliant insight into diving in Indonesia and what it has to offer – but take heed of our warning – you will want to go back as soon as you get home.
Our sincere thanks go out to all the staff at Murex Manado, Murex Bankga and Lembeh Resort for making this trip happen – you really did make a huge impact on us and our group, and we promise we will be coming back!
Key Facts :
- Getting there : Flights with Emirates Airlines to Manado depart from any major UK airport via Dubai and Jakarta or Singapore Airlines via Singapore and Jakarta. On Emirates from London Heathrow it was a 7-hour flight with a quick two-hour layover in Dubai followed by an 8-hour flight to Jakarta. We had a longer layover in Jakarta so we booked a room at FM7 Hotel, a quick 20 minutes from the airport for a much-needed shower and a kip. The comfortable double room was £36 and offers a free shuttle to and from the airport. Our final flight on domestic carrier Garuda to Manado was 3 ½ hours. 30 to 35kg baggage allowance is typical.
- Air temperature : Tropical – average daily temperature throughout the year is 28-30°C, with the humidity at 85-90%. The rainy season is considered to be November to May with peak rainfall in January.
- Water temperature : 26-29°C. A 1-3mm full suit or shorty will suit most.
- Visa requirement : Tourist visa is purchased on arrival for £30 or IDR 500,000.
- Health protocols : When we travelled, visitors were mandated to download an app “Pedulilindungi”. This required us to upload our proof of COVID vaccination and booster and approval was received within 24 hours. Upon arrival, we provided a QR code generated by the app, had our temperature taken and then we were off.
- Currency : Indonesian rupiah, US dollars or Euros on resort. We often find the exchange rate is better at the destination country. ATMs and exchange desks are available at the airport. The resort also accepted credit cards to settle our bill quoted in rupiah.
- Electricity : 230V with European style (round pin) two-prong plugs. Our adaptor worked without issue, and the camera room had extension leads with UK plugs.
- Internet and Wi-Fi : Wi-fi is available at no charge at the resort. The best signal around the resort was at the restaurant.
Price Guide: Expect from £1999 per person based on two sharing a beachfront room for a 7-night itinerary with full board and 10 dives. Return flights and transfers are included.
Our Advice: With a long travel time consider the Passport to Paradise itinerary to take in Lembeh, Bangka and Bunaken. We travelled to Lembeh Resort, Murex Bangka and Murex Manado Resort. Check out our trip report on Lembeh and Murex Bangka!! With numerous routes from the UK to choose from, any duration can easily be arranged.
Additional costs:
- Tourist Visa : £30 purchased on arrival.
- Food & Drink : Speciality drinks, adult beverages, sodas and snacks at Manado Resort. Fancy coffees, milkshakes, sodas, beers, wine, and cocktails were always available and affordable.
- Diving Extras : Three boat dives are offered daily along with the option to sign up for additional dives. We purchased a 2 dives/day package for our trip. NITROX was an extra charge and was paid for at the end of the trip.
- Tips : We would suggest a minimum of £15 per day to cover the dive centre and resort staff. Individual tips for special service are up to you!
Things to Pack :
- Dry bag : A small dry bag for daily boat dives is always handy to keep your personal items together and protected.
- Bug spray : When the sun went down, the mozzies came out!
- Medicated or drying ear drops : On a long trip with lots of diving, our ears tend to get a little sensitive so we try to be prepared.
Rechargeable personal fan : Found on Amazon these have become a traveller favourite! Handy on the plane.
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Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
The second day’s diving was a day full of wreck diving at Abu Nuhas, which included the Chrisoula K, Carnatic, and Ghiannis D. The first dive of the day was onto the Chrisoula K, also known as the wreck of tiles. The 98m vessel remains largely intact where she was loaded with tiles which can be seen throughout the hold. The stern sits at 26m and the bow just below the surface. One of the highlights of the wreck is heading inside and seeing the workroom where the machinery used for cutting the tiles are perfectly intact. The bow provided some relaxing scenery as the bright sunlight highlighted the colours of the soft coral reef and the many reef fish.
Following breakfast, we then headed to the next wreck, which was the Carnatic. The Carnatic is an 89.9m sail steamer vessel that was built in Britain back in 1862. She ran aground on the reef back in 1869 and remains at 27m. At the time, she was carrying a range of items, including 40,000 sterling in gold. An impressive wreck where much of the superstructure remains, and the two large masts lay on the seafloor. The wooden ribs of the hull provide structures for lots of soft corals, and into the stern section, the light beams through, bouncing off the large shoals of glass fish that can be found using the structure as shelter from the larger predators that are found outside of the wreck.
The final wreck at Abu Nuhas was the Ghiannis D, originally called ‘Shoyo Maru,’ which was 99.5m long and built in Japan back in 1969 before becoming a Greek-registered cargo ship in 1980. The ship then ran aground on the reef on April 19th, 1983, and now sits at the bottom at a depth of 27m. Heading down the line, the stern of the ship remains in good condition compared to the rest of the hull. The highlight of the wreck, though, is heading into the stern section and down the flights of stairs to enter the engine room, which remains in good condition and is definitely worth exploring. After exploring the interior section of the ship, we then headed over to see the rest of the superstructure, where it’s particularly interesting to see the large table corals that have grown at the bow relatively quickly considering the date the ship sank. After surfacing and enjoying some afternoon snacks, we made sure everything was strapped down and secured as we would be heading north and crossing the Gulf of Suez, where the winds were still creating plenty of chop.
The next morning, it was a short hop to Ras Mohammed Nature Reserve for the next couple of days of diving. The 6am wake-up call came along with the briefing for the first site we would be diving, which was Shark & Yolanda. The low current conditions allowed us to start the dive at Anemone City, where we would drift along the steep, coral-filled wall. These dives involved drifts, as mooring in Ras Mohammed wasn’t allowed to protect the reefs. As a dive site, Shark & Yolanda is well-known and historically had a lot of sharks, but unfortunately not so many in recent years, especially not so early in the season. However, there was always a chance when looking out into the blue.
The gentle drift took us along the steep walls of the site, with plenty of anemone fish to be seen and a huge variety of corals. It wasn’t long into the dive before we were accompanied by a hawksbill turtle, who drifted with us between the two atolls before parting ways. Between the two reefs, the shallow patch with parts of coral heads surrounded by sand provided the chance to see a few blue-spotted stingrays that were mainly resting underneath the corals and are always a pleasure to see. With this being the morning dive, the early sunlight lit up the walls, providing tranquil moments. Looking out into the blue, there was very little to be seen, but a small shoal of batfish shimmering underneath the sunlight was a moment to capture as we watched them swim by as they watched us.
Towards the end of the dive, we stopped at the wreck of the Jolanda where the seafloor was scattered with toilets from the containers it was carrying. This provided a unique site to make a safety stop, which was also accompanied by a large barracuda slowly swimming by, along with a hawksbill turtle calmly swimming over the reef as the sun rays danced in the distance.
For the next dive, we headed north to the Strait of Tiran to explore the reefs situated between Tiran Island and Sharm El Sheik, which were named after the British divers who had found them. We started on Jackson before heading to Gordons Reef, where we also did the night dive. All the atolls at these sites provided stunning, bustling coral reefs close to the surface and steep walls to swim along, which always provided the opportunity to keep an eye out for some of the larger species that can be seen in the blue. Midwater around Jackson Reef was filled with red-toothed triggerfish and shoals of banner fish, which at times were so dense that you couldn’t see into the blue. Moments went by peacefully as we enjoyed the slow drift above the reef, watching these shoals swim around under the mid-afternoon sun.
The night dive at Gordon’s Reef was mainly among the stacks of corals surrounded by sand, which was great to explore under the darkness. After some time circling the corals, we came across what we were really hoping to find, and that was an octopus hunting on the reef. We spent the majority of the dive just watching it crawl among the reef, blending into its changing surroundings through changes in colour and skin texture. It’s always so fascinating and captivating to watch these incredibly intelligent animals, in awe of their ability to carry out these physical changes to perfectly blend into the reef. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the boat to enjoy a well-deserved tasty dinner prepared by the talented chefs onboard.
Check in for the 3rd and final part of this series from Jake tomorrow!
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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