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A day in the life of Marsa Shagra with Sea to Sky
Sea to Sky is delighted to collaborate with Red Sea Diving Safari (RSDS), encompassing three distinct diving “villages” – Marsa Shagra, Marsa Nakari, and Wadi Lahami. Each village possesses its own unique charm, and although they share a common ethos of sustainable and eco-friendly diving, they differ in many aspects.
Established by its founder, Mr. Hossam Helmy, in 1990, RSDS’s sustainable tourism model has been well-defined, catering to divers of all levels and experiences. The commitment to eco-friendly practices is a key aspect of the RSDS experience.
Traveling to RSDS can be achieved via two main airports: Marsa Alam Airport or Hurghada Airport. Marsa Alam is approximately a 40-minute drive from Marsa Shagra, while Hurghada entails a transfer of approximately 3 to 3.5 hours. Marsa Nakari is situated 40 km south of Marsa Shagra, and Wadi Lahami is 140 km away. RSDS facilitates all necessary transfers, ensuring a hassle-free experience with friendly drivers and comfortable vehicles, ranging from cars to minibuses based on the number of passengers. This commitment to convenience reflects RSDS’s dedication to providing a seamless and enjoyable journey for its guests.
I’ve been a dedicated visitor to RSDS for over a decade, a testament to the commendable operation they run. Each year, I make it a point to visit one of the villages, and on this particular trip in December 2023, it was heartening to encounter both familiar and new faces. The continuity of the team at RSDS, along with the addition of fresh members, is a testament to the sense of community fostered there. The warmth and friendliness extended to me upon arrival always make me feel like a long-lost friend, reinforcing the familial atmosphere that RSDS cultivates.
My journey began with a visit to a supplier in Hurghada, and I had prearranged both the transfer and accommodation through the head office. Guests like myself are required to use agents for bookings, ensuring a standardized cost structure. Despite not being able to book directly with RSDS, the pricing clarity remains consistent across agents.
Promptly at 10am, my transfer arrived, allowing me to embark on the journey south to Marsa Alam. The drive itself was uneventful but pleasant, offering a straightforward route. A scheduled rest break en-route provided an opportunity to grab a coffee and a bite to eat, making for a smooth and enjoyable travel experience.
Upon my arrival at Marsa Shagra, I was dropped off at the main reception just after 1pm by the driver. Taking charge of unloading my bags, I proceeded to check in, which turned out to be a straightforward process. The reception efficiently gathered my passport details and accommodation voucher. As a Tour Operator (TO), we provide guests with a voucher confirming booking details, and this was handed in at the reception. Once the formalities were completed, I received my keys.
Assisted by one of the staff members, we made our way to my chosen accommodation. Marsa Shagra offers a diverse range of lodging options, including Superior Deluxe, Premium Deluxe, and Deluxe chalets (my choice for this visit). Other options include huts, Royal Tents, standard tents, and accessible chalets. The Royal tent, positioned on the shore, stands out as a popular choice, offering a light and breezy ambiance that truly captures the essence of Egypt. If you’re interested, I can provide more details about the various accommodation options available.
Notably, Marsa Shagra provides an environmentally conscious amenity — an unlimited number of cold water dispensers distributed throughout the villages. Guests are encouraged to bring their own water bottles for free refills whenever needed, reflecting RSDS’s commitment to sustainability and guest well-being.
Once settled in, with a quick shower and dive kit organized, it was time to make my way to the equipment room near the reception at Marsa Shagra. This is where guests check in for their prearranged diving packages, typically agreed upon with their Tour Operator (TO). The most popular choice is the 5-day unlimited house reef diving package, though there’s flexibility for daily unlimited diving as well. There’s a diving package to suit every preference.
Upon arrival at the equipment room, you complete mandatory forms required by PADI and RSDS. You can collect any necessary weights or equipment, get assigned a locker number, and then head over to the dive shade. Managed by Shazli and an exceptional team, including Shekaa, the dive shade staff are always welcoming, cheerful, and highly professional. Shekaa even assisted me in unpacking my dive gear and organizing it in the allocated locker, providing a helpful touch to the overall experience.
The dive shade, conveniently located opposite the equipment room, is equipped with all the amenities and facilities a diver might need. This includes changing rooms, clearly labelled clean tanks for equipment, fresh water, and more. The layout is well-designed and well-thought-out, contributing to a seamless diving experience.
It’s worth noting that all guests are recommended to attend the daily morning Orientation talks at the dive office at 9am. These talks provide detailed information about RSDS Marsa Shagra, covering procedures, offshore excursions, diving operations, night diving, reef topography, speed boats, dive profiles, and more. In addition and as part of the diving package, two orientation dives are included accompanied by a dive guide. It’s a valuable session for understanding the workings of RSDS.
One of the standout features of RSDS, particularly at Marsa Shagra and Marsa Nakari, is the concept of unlimited diving. The flexibility to grab a tank and explore the underwater world at your own pace, either with a buddy or using the buddy board to find one, adds to the appeal of the RSDS experience. It’s a great way to make new friends and fully immerse yourself in the diving community.
After my visit to the equipment room, I made my way to the restaurant for lunch, passing by the cafeteria and dive office where I exchanged greetings with Basta and Marie, who, alongside Maher, efficiently manage the dive operation with a focus on safety and professionalism.
The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a buffet style, and I was truly impressed by the extensive choices available. The spread included around 20 different salads, 10 hot dishes, assorted bread, soup, and a variety of fresh fruits. The culinary offerings at RSDS cater to diverse dietary needs, accommodating intolerances as well as providing options for vegans and vegetarians. No one would leave hungry with such a variety on offer.
After a satisfying lunch, I leisurely made my way to the cafeteria for a Turkish coffee. Soft drinks, teas, and regular coffees are complimentary, though diet drinks and Turkish coffees come with a separate charge. Following the delightful Turkish coffee experience, I headed to the dive shade to gear up. As a certified Self Reliant instructor, I had the flexibility to dive on my own. For the day, I aimed to complete a check dive and ensure all my equipment functioned properly.
Equipped with my stage, two masks, two computers, and two DSMBs, I added my name to the diving board, signalling to the staff that I had entered the water and indicating the expected time of my return. The water temperature was a comfortable 25 degrees, considering it was December. The highlight of Marsa Shagra undoubtedly lies in its house reef. The reef’s profile, running from North to South with an entry through a sandy sloping bottom, is ideal for confined courses. As the sandy bottom gradually deepens, you’re compelled to dive, and the healthy reef teems with millions of beautiful fish and marine life. My first underwater encounters included a free-swimming peppered moray and a turtle, making it a truly magical experience.
The profiles at Marsa Shagra is such that with the unlimited diving package you have use of the Zodiacs, so can opt for 6 different profiles of diving, whether it be shore / shore, Zodiac / shore or Zodiac / Zodiac, on either the North reef or South Reef.
After completing my check dive, I emerged from the water, removed my name from the board, and rinsed all my gear. Once I stored my equipment in the locker and hung up my wetsuit, I headed to one of the hammocks for a well-deserved rest, accompanied by the soothing sound of the sea lapping against the shore—pure bliss. A short nap later, I went to the dive centre to sign up for the 6am Elphinstone trip. Afterward, I returned to my chalet for a shower and change of clothes, then made my way to the chill-out area near the dive shade to socialize with fellow guests and enjoy a refreshing Stella beer, a fitting reward for completing my check dive.
Dinner, starting at 6:30pm, proved to be another culinary delight. Marsa Shagra offers themed main courses each night, and on this particular evening, it was Egyptian night. Freshly grilled chicken, koftes, and a variety of sides graced the menu. The real star, however, was the dessert selection—mind-blowing in terms of variety, flavours, and presentation. Satisfied and anticipating the Elphinstone trip the next morning, I retired to my chalet.
The next day began early at 5 am. After a cup of coffee, I headed to the dive shade to prepare my gear for the Elphinstone trip. Our guide, Kareem, also the freedive instructor and a friend I’ve known for years, led the trip. Kareem, affectionately known as the “shark whisperer,” provided a thorough briefing on the trip, the dive profile, and how to behave in the presence of white tip sharks. A 15-minute boat ride took us to Elphinstone, where, after checking the current, we embarked on an exhilarating and safe dive with encounters with white tip sharks. We returned to Shagra in time for breakfast.
Breakfast, like lunch and dinner, was served buffet-style, offering fresh eggs cooked to your liking, felafel, foul, pastries, and fruits. The food and variety were impeccable.
In summary, my day at Marsa Shagra, a diving eco-village built for divers by divers, was a slice of heaven in southern Egypt. With excellent amenities, a dedicated staff, and a commitment to sustainable diving, it’s a unique and enriching experience. If you’re a diving enthusiast, Marsa Shagra and RSDS offer an unparalleled opportunity to explore the stunning and healthy reefs of the Red Sea. Don’t just take my word for it—go and experience it yourself and revel in the beauty of Marsa Shagra and RSDS.
Join Sea to Sky and embark on new diving adventures! Visit www.myseatosky.co.uk for more information.
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
The second day’s diving was a day full of wreck diving at Abu Nuhas, which included the Chrisoula K, Carnatic, and Ghiannis D. The first dive of the day was onto the Chrisoula K, also known as the wreck of tiles. The 98m vessel remains largely intact where she was loaded with tiles which can be seen throughout the hold. The stern sits at 26m and the bow just below the surface. One of the highlights of the wreck is heading inside and seeing the workroom where the machinery used for cutting the tiles are perfectly intact. The bow provided some relaxing scenery as the bright sunlight highlighted the colours of the soft coral reef and the many reef fish.
Following breakfast, we then headed to the next wreck, which was the Carnatic. The Carnatic is an 89.9m sail steamer vessel that was built in Britain back in 1862. She ran aground on the reef back in 1869 and remains at 27m. At the time, she was carrying a range of items, including 40,000 sterling in gold. An impressive wreck where much of the superstructure remains, and the two large masts lay on the seafloor. The wooden ribs of the hull provide structures for lots of soft corals, and into the stern section, the light beams through, bouncing off the large shoals of glass fish that can be found using the structure as shelter from the larger predators that are found outside of the wreck.
The final wreck at Abu Nuhas was the Ghiannis D, originally called ‘Shoyo Maru,’ which was 99.5m long and built in Japan back in 1969 before becoming a Greek-registered cargo ship in 1980. The ship then ran aground on the reef on April 19th, 1983, and now sits at the bottom at a depth of 27m. Heading down the line, the stern of the ship remains in good condition compared to the rest of the hull. The highlight of the wreck, though, is heading into the stern section and down the flights of stairs to enter the engine room, which remains in good condition and is definitely worth exploring. After exploring the interior section of the ship, we then headed over to see the rest of the superstructure, where it’s particularly interesting to see the large table corals that have grown at the bow relatively quickly considering the date the ship sank. After surfacing and enjoying some afternoon snacks, we made sure everything was strapped down and secured as we would be heading north and crossing the Gulf of Suez, where the winds were still creating plenty of chop.
The next morning, it was a short hop to Ras Mohammed Nature Reserve for the next couple of days of diving. The 6am wake-up call came along with the briefing for the first site we would be diving, which was Shark & Yolanda. The low current conditions allowed us to start the dive at Anemone City, where we would drift along the steep, coral-filled wall. These dives involved drifts, as mooring in Ras Mohammed wasn’t allowed to protect the reefs. As a dive site, Shark & Yolanda is well-known and historically had a lot of sharks, but unfortunately not so many in recent years, especially not so early in the season. However, there was always a chance when looking out into the blue.
The gentle drift took us along the steep walls of the site, with plenty of anemone fish to be seen and a huge variety of corals. It wasn’t long into the dive before we were accompanied by a hawksbill turtle, who drifted with us between the two atolls before parting ways. Between the two reefs, the shallow patch with parts of coral heads surrounded by sand provided the chance to see a few blue-spotted stingrays that were mainly resting underneath the corals and are always a pleasure to see. With this being the morning dive, the early sunlight lit up the walls, providing tranquil moments. Looking out into the blue, there was very little to be seen, but a small shoal of batfish shimmering underneath the sunlight was a moment to capture as we watched them swim by as they watched us.
Towards the end of the dive, we stopped at the wreck of the Jolanda where the seafloor was scattered with toilets from the containers it was carrying. This provided a unique site to make a safety stop, which was also accompanied by a large barracuda slowly swimming by, along with a hawksbill turtle calmly swimming over the reef as the sun rays danced in the distance.
For the next dive, we headed north to the Strait of Tiran to explore the reefs situated between Tiran Island and Sharm El Sheik, which were named after the British divers who had found them. We started on Jackson before heading to Gordons Reef, where we also did the night dive. All the atolls at these sites provided stunning, bustling coral reefs close to the surface and steep walls to swim along, which always provided the opportunity to keep an eye out for some of the larger species that can be seen in the blue. Midwater around Jackson Reef was filled with red-toothed triggerfish and shoals of banner fish, which at times were so dense that you couldn’t see into the blue. Moments went by peacefully as we enjoyed the slow drift above the reef, watching these shoals swim around under the mid-afternoon sun.
The night dive at Gordon’s Reef was mainly among the stacks of corals surrounded by sand, which was great to explore under the darkness. After some time circling the corals, we came across what we were really hoping to find, and that was an octopus hunting on the reef. We spent the majority of the dive just watching it crawl among the reef, blending into its changing surroundings through changes in colour and skin texture. It’s always so fascinating and captivating to watch these incredibly intelligent animals, in awe of their ability to carry out these physical changes to perfectly blend into the reef. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the boat to enjoy a well-deserved tasty dinner prepared by the talented chefs onboard.
Check in for the 3rd and final part of this series from Jake tomorrow!
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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