Blogs
A day at Wadi Sabarah
Crafting a blog about Wadi Sabarah has been a challenging yet rewarding endeavour, as this hidden gem embodies the essence of affordable luxury like no other place I’ve encountered worldwide. From its captivating architecture and the soulful character of the building to the warm hospitality of the staff and the delectable cuisine, Wadi Sabarah stands out as the ultimate escape for everyone—couples, divers, and romantic souls alike.
Tucked a mere 20 minutes away from Marsa Alam airport along the picturesque southern Red Sea, Wadi Sabarah Lodge and Botanical Gardens beckon travellers into a realm that captures the unique charm both above and beneath the water’s surface.
With a commanding view overlooking 700 meters of unspoiled fringing reef, Wadi Sabarah is a masterpiece of thoughtful and distinctive design. Constructed from repurposed fossilized coral limestone, the resort seamlessly merges with its awe-inspiring natural surroundings, creating an ambiance that is both breath-taking and harmonious.
The Arrival
Arriving at Wadi Sabarah, I transitioned from a short stay at Red Sea Diving Safari by air-conditioned mini-bus. Welcomed at the front door by one of the friendly staff members, the journey into this architectural marvel began. The reception area offered an immediate respite, where I was graciously offered a refreshing drink. The check-in process was hassle-free, involving a simple copy of my passport and a brief form. Soon after, I was escorted to my chosen abode — the Junior suite. Opting for this upgrade on this particular trip allowed me to thoroughly explore and appreciate the variety of room types and facilities, all for a minimal cost difference.
Nestled a mere 10 meters from the reception, my room at Wadi Sabarah was nothing short of a revelation. Upon opening the door, I was immediately captivated by the sheer luxury that awaited me — a level of opulence typically associated with a higher price point. The room unfolded into a spacious living area adorned with a well-stocked mini-bar, a chic chaise longue, a comfortable 3-seater sofa, and an inviting armchair. At the far end of this retreat was a king-size bed, impeccably made with the freshest linen, providing a sublime haven of comfort. What truly amazed me was the inclusion of not one but two bathrooms, each exuding an air of sophistication. The first boasted a walk-in shower, two basins, and a toilet, complete with fresh towels and indulgent Wadi Sabarah soaps and toiletries. The second bathroom, located in a separate room, housed a freestanding bath. Stepping onto my veranda, I was greeted by a panoramic view of Wadi Sabarah and the breath-taking Red Sea, complete with a hammock, chairs, and a table for the ultimate relaxation.
The Culinray Oasis: Tamarisk
A brief stroll upstairs led me to the Tamarisk Restaurant, a culinary oasis where tables adorned the perimeter and a central bar beckoned. As I entered, I encountered Samir (Sam), the amiable owner, and Moustafa, the General Manager, engaged in friendly conversation at the bar. Sam’s passion for both the history of Egypt, evident in the lodge’s design, and the lodge itself was nothing short of breath-taking. Sam is so passionate that there will be a new museum built on site housing Egyptian History artefacts which will complement the amazing Library that is currently in situ. Moustafa, the new GM, displayed a wealth of experience that already left its mark on the lodge.
The staff, recognizing me by name with utmost respect, created a personalized touch that made my experience exceptional. After Sam’s departure for business in Cairo, I enjoyed my lunch in the wonderful restaurant and surroundings. The culinary delights at Wadi Sabarah have consistently been outstanding in taste, authenticity, and presentation. Lunch, like dinner, was freshly prepared daily, offering a choice between vegetarian and meat options. My midday feast consisted of a zucchini stew accompanied by a fresh salad, rice, and homemade bread—a perfect blend of flavours that was utterly delicious.
Wadi Sabarah, committed to sustainability, is entirely plastic-free, offering water from Brita Vivreau dispensers, including both still and sparkling options—a thoughtful touch.
Post-Lunch Explorations and facilities
Following lunch and a delightful walkaround with Moustafa, I explored the meticulously maintained infinity pool and the pristine beach. A new jetty and yoga studio, set against the backdrop of the Red Sea, added to the allure. Yoga sessions, held twice daily by Jo, the manageress of Emperor Divers on site, provided an enriching experience.
Emperor Divers: A dive into excellence
Emperor Divers, a recent addition to Wadi Sabarah, quickly established itself as a positive asset to the overall ambiance. Overseen by Luke and Tracy, who also manage Emperor Egypt, Emperor Divers earned a reputation for professionalism, safety consciousness, and enjoyable diving experiences.
Jo, running the daily operations, showcased an impressive knowledge of the Red Sea, providing comprehensive answers to all my queries. The diving centre, equipped for both house reef and boat diving, offered all PADI courses and operated from Port Ghalib, ensuring access to the exceptional reefs of Marsa Alam.
Evening delights and Educational insights
In the evening, Jo presented an enlightening talk on “Cleaning Stations” and the role of the Wrasse, blending entertainment with education. I certainly learnt a lot from her talk and it was really well received by all present. The communal dinner at Tamarisk Restaurant, featuring a family table for solo travellers, facilitated engaging conversations with individuals of diverse nationalities. A delightful soup, followed by Egyptian beef stew, rice, flatbread, and vegetables, constituted a culinary masterpiece. Dessert, featuring homemade Egyptian pastries, concluded the meal on a sweet note.
A tranquil goodnight
Post-dinner, I retreated to my room, sinking into the plush comforts of my bed wrapped in soft cotton sheets, marking the end of a blissful day.
Breakfast Farewell and Departure
The next morning, a traditional Egyptian breakfast awaited me at Tamarisk, featuring felafel, foul, a delightful omelet, and freshly baked pastries. After a few espresso indulgences, it was time to bid farewell. Checkout proved painless and efficient, with heartfelt goodbyes exchanged with Moustafa and the staff. Departing from the hotel by car, I headed to Marsa Alam Airport, cherishing the memories of an extraordinary stay.
Prices start from €1200.00, based on double occupancy for 6 nights with full board and 4 days of diving with Emperor Divers. For more information, prices, and availability at Wadi Sabarah, contact Hello@myseatosky.co.uk.
Join Sea to Sky and embark on new diving adventures! Visit www.myseatosky.co.uk for more information.
Blogs
Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 3: The Mighty Thistlegorm
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
Blogs
Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 2: Wall to Wall Wrecks
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
The second day’s diving was a day full of wreck diving at Abu Nuhas, which included the Chrisoula K, Carnatic, and Ghiannis D. The first dive of the day was onto the Chrisoula K, also known as the wreck of tiles. The 98m vessel remains largely intact where she was loaded with tiles which can be seen throughout the hold. The stern sits at 26m and the bow just below the surface. One of the highlights of the wreck is heading inside and seeing the workroom where the machinery used for cutting the tiles are perfectly intact. The bow provided some relaxing scenery as the bright sunlight highlighted the colours of the soft coral reef and the many reef fish.
Following breakfast, we then headed to the next wreck, which was the Carnatic. The Carnatic is an 89.9m sail steamer vessel that was built in Britain back in 1862. She ran aground on the reef back in 1869 and remains at 27m. At the time, she was carrying a range of items, including 40,000 sterling in gold. An impressive wreck where much of the superstructure remains, and the two large masts lay on the seafloor. The wooden ribs of the hull provide structures for lots of soft corals, and into the stern section, the light beams through, bouncing off the large shoals of glass fish that can be found using the structure as shelter from the larger predators that are found outside of the wreck.
The final wreck at Abu Nuhas was the Ghiannis D, originally called ‘Shoyo Maru,’ which was 99.5m long and built in Japan back in 1969 before becoming a Greek-registered cargo ship in 1980. The ship then ran aground on the reef on April 19th, 1983, and now sits at the bottom at a depth of 27m. Heading down the line, the stern of the ship remains in good condition compared to the rest of the hull. The highlight of the wreck, though, is heading into the stern section and down the flights of stairs to enter the engine room, which remains in good condition and is definitely worth exploring. After exploring the interior section of the ship, we then headed over to see the rest of the superstructure, where it’s particularly interesting to see the large table corals that have grown at the bow relatively quickly considering the date the ship sank. After surfacing and enjoying some afternoon snacks, we made sure everything was strapped down and secured as we would be heading north and crossing the Gulf of Suez, where the winds were still creating plenty of chop.
The next morning, it was a short hop to Ras Mohammed Nature Reserve for the next couple of days of diving. The 6am wake-up call came along with the briefing for the first site we would be diving, which was Shark & Yolanda. The low current conditions allowed us to start the dive at Anemone City, where we would drift along the steep, coral-filled wall. These dives involved drifts, as mooring in Ras Mohammed wasn’t allowed to protect the reefs. As a dive site, Shark & Yolanda is well-known and historically had a lot of sharks, but unfortunately not so many in recent years, especially not so early in the season. However, there was always a chance when looking out into the blue.
The gentle drift took us along the steep walls of the site, with plenty of anemone fish to be seen and a huge variety of corals. It wasn’t long into the dive before we were accompanied by a hawksbill turtle, who drifted with us between the two atolls before parting ways. Between the two reefs, the shallow patch with parts of coral heads surrounded by sand provided the chance to see a few blue-spotted stingrays that were mainly resting underneath the corals and are always a pleasure to see. With this being the morning dive, the early sunlight lit up the walls, providing tranquil moments. Looking out into the blue, there was very little to be seen, but a small shoal of batfish shimmering underneath the sunlight was a moment to capture as we watched them swim by as they watched us.
Towards the end of the dive, we stopped at the wreck of the Jolanda where the seafloor was scattered with toilets from the containers it was carrying. This provided a unique site to make a safety stop, which was also accompanied by a large barracuda slowly swimming by, along with a hawksbill turtle calmly swimming over the reef as the sun rays danced in the distance.
For the next dive, we headed north to the Strait of Tiran to explore the reefs situated between Tiran Island and Sharm El Sheik, which were named after the British divers who had found them. We started on Jackson before heading to Gordons Reef, where we also did the night dive. All the atolls at these sites provided stunning, bustling coral reefs close to the surface and steep walls to swim along, which always provided the opportunity to keep an eye out for some of the larger species that can be seen in the blue. Midwater around Jackson Reef was filled with red-toothed triggerfish and shoals of banner fish, which at times were so dense that you couldn’t see into the blue. Moments went by peacefully as we enjoyed the slow drift above the reef, watching these shoals swim around under the mid-afternoon sun.
The night dive at Gordon’s Reef was mainly among the stacks of corals surrounded by sand, which was great to explore under the darkness. After some time circling the corals, we came across what we were really hoping to find, and that was an octopus hunting on the reef. We spent the majority of the dive just watching it crawl among the reef, blending into its changing surroundings through changes in colour and skin texture. It’s always so fascinating and captivating to watch these incredibly intelligent animals, in awe of their ability to carry out these physical changes to perfectly blend into the reef. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the boat to enjoy a well-deserved tasty dinner prepared by the talented chefs onboard.
Check in for the 3rd and final part of this series from Jake tomorrow!
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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