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Tulamben, Bali: USAT Liberty, Bumpheads and Bargibanti



The smell of stale pee hung like a miasma in the still early morning air over the entry point to the USAT Liberty Wreck in Tulamben. It was still dark at 5.45am when we crept out of our beautifully cool veranda villa in the Mimpi Boutique Hotel Resort for our eagerly anticipated Bump Head Parrot fish encounter. We walked along the sea wall that protects the beach front resorts from the ravages of the ocean, crunching over the black stone volcanic rubble in our sandals as the sky lightened and the sea began to glow.







Tulamben is a small resort village in the East Coast of Bali, nestled against the towering Mt Agung, one of Bali’s three active volcanoes. It depends almost entirely on divers for its income who come to explore the wreck of the USAT Liberty, a deliberately beached WW2 ship that was landlocked for 20 years until 1963 when the volcano erupted, killing over a thousand people and finally sinking the ship. It now lies in a depth varying from just 6m down to 28m of water, wedged against the undersea slope.

With natural disaster always lurking in the background, and an active volcano to propitiate, the Balinese practice a very active form of animist Hinduism in their daily lives. They surround themselves with well tended gardens and natural beauty. Even the most humble dwelling often has an exquisite pot or planting on the pavement, and almost every family has a temple, or sacred place. Daily offerings are made to the gods of earth, wind, water and fire. It is almost as though the Balinese are afraid their environment will suddenly disappear, so they make everything beautiful while they can, asking help from their gods to keep their world safe.

There are divers swarming over the wreck from 7am when the porters arrive to carry the tanks to the ocean side, until 10pm when the last night divers surface. Incredibly, where every dive entry point we visited had gear washing facilities, ablutions and loos, this one with the most diver traffic has only a few bamboo platforms to kit up on, hence the stench of pee. All the gear is carried from the resorts on the heads of the staunch Balinese women porters.

35 year old Nengah carries 2 sets of kit on her head

Ages range from 24 to 50 years old, and most of the women are married with children. They move in a circuit, from kit-up and ablution area with full kits to entry point returning with empty cylinders. They are paid by the dive Operators through the Dive Guides and most have worked for the 11 years since the system’s inception.

We met Parman, our personal dive guide, at the restaurant rendezvous and he was on his cell to a friend with a motorcycle to organise for our gear to be transported the 200m to the entry point, as it was too early for the porters. We strapped on our weight belts, picked up our fins and wearing our Rockies over our booties we stumbled across the stones and boulders to the entry point. After 30min, no gear, the sun was showing and the dive boats had arrived, depositing 20 divers onto the wreck.  By 6:30am it was clearly too late for the parrot fish encounter, but the gear arrived and we kitted up anyway.

The Bump Heads sleep in the wreck and we had seen one on our night dive the previous evening, sleeping under an overhang. They leave at sunrise to disperse across the reef, grazing on the coral and trying to convert the black volcanic silt to white coral sand with their droppings. A single Bumphead consumes 5 tonnes of coral in a year. You rarely find them in the wreck after sunrise. Surprisingly Parman finned away from the Liberty. We soon saw why. As we reached the 11m coral line, 43 Bumphead Parrot fish arrived for breakfast. Like a bovine herd, they hung beside us, benignly sleepy-eyed, the little ones pushing and shoving at each other while the gigantic herd bull tried to maintain order. He had an enormous bump, so big there was room for a tenacious remora, which clung optimistically to the edge of it.

Side on they are huge, but they are almost two dimensional, as they are very narrow creatures. As young fish they are a drab grey, but as they get older and bigger, their colour lightens to an exquisite turquoise blue with rich blue fin outlines. When the dominant male in an area dies, the largest female changes her sex and gains the stature and ponderous gravitas of an elder statesman, taking over the role of herd bull. There can be only one male in any area.

We headed back to the Liberty and plunged straight down to 34m, where Parman expected to find the exquisite minute pink pygmy seahorse. At this depth our bottom time was limited, so we had 8 minutes to find him. As the deco warnings on our computers began to flash Parman’s rattle sounded, and there he was. Minutely exquisite, clinging tenaciously to his Gorgonian Fan, we saw the Pink Pygmy Seahorse, (Hipocampus Bargibanti) and then to top off a perfect dive, the Dragon Shrimp ((Phyllognatha ceratophthalmus).







We ascended through the wreck, passing stunning hard and soft corals, Catfaced Rock Cod, dozens of unfamiliar butterfly fishes, two relaxed Regal Angelfish and a huge Malabar rock cod. There were several beautiful Oriental Sweet lips relaxing on the sand against a fallen boom, with hungry goatfish burrowing in the sand around them. A patch of garden eels waved in the slight current as we ascended, and to complete a perfect dive, a huge school of kingfish circled us overhead, hoping we would stir up a meal for them at the 3m mark.

We trudged back for breakfast through an oregano field filled with grazing goats, and were stunned by the ancient wisdom of a nation that had the foresight to pre-season its meat. Every meal we had in Bali was deliciously seasoned, elegantly served by exquisite Balinese hostesses and the most expensive dish, pre-ordered Bali Roast Goose was around £2.50 per person, for 3 courses.







Words: Jill Holloway

Images: David Holloway

Copyright: Ocean Spirit

Jill Holloway lives in Mauritius and at Sodwana Bay Isimangaliso Wetland Park in South Africa. A PADI qualified Nitrox diver with over 1,500 dives, she is a passionate observer and preserver of the marine environment, and has a database of over 35,000 fish pics and hundreds of Gopro videos on fish behaviour, which she shares with her readers.


Frontline workers honoured with free dive trip to Yap



The remote island of Yap in the Federated States of Micronesia is among the few places in the world that remains free of Covid-19 thanks to its ocean border and a strict travel ban that has kept its residents safe.

Nonetheless, Yap has been affected, too. As one of the world’s premier, award-winning destinations for divers, this paradisiacal location in the western Pacific Ocean has had no outside visitors to its rich shores and reef for nearly a year. But while there may be no virus, the island hasn’t been cut off from the economic impact experienced around the globe.

Manta Ray Bay Resort and Yap Divers by A. Tareg

That didn’t stop Bill Acker, CEO and founder of the Manta Ray Bay Resort and Yap Divers, from doing something, though.

Last March, soon after the island went into lockdown, Bill began to realize the effect of the virus on daily life beyond the island. “Yes, we are closed, have no divers, had to send our employees home and prepare for difficult times,” he said. “But we’re lucky in that we have, for the most part, avoided the human suffering and death this pandemic has caused.”

Thinking about the problems faced by his family business, they paled when he compared them to those endured by the healthcare workers who have been fighting selflessly around the clock for months on end for the well-being and lives of others.

“One evening, while checking the news online, I saw pictures of frontline workers who were tending to desperately ill and dying people when families and friends could not be with their loved ones. It was heartbreaking,” he added.

The next day, a meeting was held with the resort’s staff and Bill invited suggestions for ways they could do something to honor healthcare workers. The result was the idea to award twenty divers who are working on the frontline to save other’s lives during this pandemic while risking their own, with a free week at the resort.

Manta ray, Manta birostris, gliding over a cleaning station in M’il Channel, Yap, Micronesia by David Fleetham

Divers around the world who had been guests at Manta Ray Bay in the past were invited to submit the names of candidates for the award by December 31, 2020. “We received nominations for 126 individuals from as far away as Germany, the U.S., Australia and Canada,” he said. “It was not easy choosing the winners but our committee of staff members took on the job and selected the 20 finalists.”

“While trying to choose the people to reward for their hard work during this Covid-19 crisis,” Bill added, “by reading the nominations we saw that every one of the nominees was doing things above and beyond the call of duty. Sadly, we don’t have the finances to offer over 100 free weeks in Yap, but we do want to recognize the contributions all of them are making to our world. So, we are offering the rest of the nominees a free week of diving in Yap which includes room, hotel tax, airport transfers, breakfast, diving and Wi-Fi.  The only requirement is that they travel with at least three other people and stay in two rooms or more.”

“We do not yet know when Yap will open its borders,” said Bill, “but when it does, we will welcome these important guests to Yap to relax and dive with the manta rays and the other beautiful denizens of the ocean surrounding our island home. They are the true heroes of this devastating, historic time and we look forward to honoring them with a well-deserved dive vacation.”

Watch out for our exclusive trip report from a healthcare worker from the UK who is one of the 20 to have been awarded this amazing dive trip!

For more information on Manta Ray Bay and Yap Divers visit their website by clicking here.

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Dive Training Blogs

Dream Dive Locker Build Out. Part I: Demolition (Watch Video)



It’s finally here! Time to start building the greatest dive locker the world has ever seen! Part I: Demolition! #dreamdivelocker

This is the first of a series of videos showing the evolution of building out my dream dive locker. My dream dive locker needs to be dive gear drying and storage, dry storage, workshop, office, editing suite, You Tube studio and classroom. That’s a lot of functions for a small space!

The first step is planning out the space and demolishing the laminate flooring. Then I taped up the walls to get a feel for the space. We have a lot of work to do!

But finally we will have a purpose built space to house all of our dive equipment! Subscribe to our channel to follow our progress! 

Thanks for watching, Team!


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This is the perfect start to your 2021 diving season… and at an incredible lead-in price of just £885 per person.

Jump on board the latest addition to the Emperor fleet and enjoy diving the famous sites of the Red Sea with this fantastic special offer. This itinerary takes in the wonderful South & St Johns from 26 February – 05 March 2021.  

Subject to availability – limited flight seats at this price so don't delay!

Call Diverse Travel on 01473 852002 or email to book your spot!

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