News
Toomer Does Bikini – Part 3
Just in case you missed the first couple of parts of Toomer Does Bikini (Part 1 of which you find here, and Part 2 can be found here), I was on Pete Mesley’s Lust for Rust trip in Bikini Atoll, which as I write this has been the greatest dive trip of my existence.
Following the mind-blowing experiences of diving the wrecks of the Nagato and the Saratoga, it was time to move on to the beautiful wreck of the USS Arkansas. The Arkansas is a 220 metre dreadnought from WWI. According to the dive briefings, when you look at images of the “Baker” blast you can see a black line up the right hand side of the image; that IS the Arkansas! Can you imagine the force of the bomb that picks up a 220 metre long warship and throws it into the sky? Well if you can’t, all you have to do is glide along her upside down hull and you can see the concertina effect of the immense pressure exerted on her.
In all my life I have never seen anything like it, and it really brings it home how powerful bombs are. It makes you realise what an insane creature man is. We create an incredible ship, then we mount guns on it and annihilate fellow man, then we unleash a bomb so strong it takes all creation whether Devine or human and simply shreds it. CRAZY!!!
Andris and I headed straight for the propellers, which were stunning. We spent an age capturing images of divers silhouetted against those enormous blades. Then we started exploring, and like the little explorers that we had become, we found all manner of treasure. I’d say it’s safe to say that the gun, with spirit level and sights still attached, was the find of the day.
Yet again, most of the divers emerged from the water with that happy ‘rust orange’ glow about them. Grin factor 100%!!!
Midway through the expedition we decided to take a break from wreck diving and move the boat to a dive site called Shark Pass.
You can pretty much guarantee that any dive site named after a fish will reveal no fish of that particular species during the dive. We’ve all been to “Shark Observatory” this and “Turtle Cave” that and what do we see? Sweet Fanny Adams! Of course your guide will always tell you that last week it was teeming with sharks, turtles, mermaids…. whatever!
Shark Pass on the other hand did have Sharks, hence the word “Sharks” in its title. The “Pass” part comes from how the current affects you. Simply put, if you miss the anchor line due to the 50 knot current you will ‘pass” the exit point and will “pass” into no man’s land, where you will “pass” off as food and will “pass” through the digestive tract of many reef sharks.
As we arrived at the site the sharks started gathering around the boat. No matter how many shark dives I do, I always get that junior school nervous giggle, and this was no exception. Pete Mesley did a great job of geeing us all up, and the pre-dive banter was somewhat infantile. Love it!!
Entering the water it was immediately apparent that the sharks there liked divers. And these divers didn’t blow bubbles. The lack of bubbles and noise made the sharks super inquisitive as they glided through our group, in and out of the current like it wasn’t there. It felt a bit like I’d just been put on the menu at Shark Pass Takeaway. It was exhilarating; extreme current, rebreathers and sharks.
We all surfaced and decided to feed our beautiful school of squali. The crew dropped a large chunk of fish off the back of the boat which brought the sharks in close.
A few of us dropped our cameras into the water and filmed the sharks and Simon bit (?) off a bit more than he could chew. A beautiful shark grabbed the bait and literally swam up the dive deck stairs onto the deck at Simon’s feet. The shark severed the fish from the line and simply plopped back into the water. Unbelievable! We didn’t actually want our day with those wonderful animals to end, but we all agreed that the wrecks of Bikini were calling so we headed back to the wreck zone.
Surprisingly, out of that graveyard of wrecks – most of them huge – on my list of favourites was a little submarine called the Apogon. As with most Bikini wrecks, she sits in 50 odd metres of water, upright on the sand.
There is something about submarines that has always thrilled me. Perhaps, because we can see the whole wreck, we realise what every submariner must go through living in those ridiculous confines. Perhaps the fact that subs are mysterious machines used in the most clandestine operations thrills the exploring diver.
Whatever it is, the Apogon was as exciting a sub dive as any other I had ever dived – a real winner.
As we approached her in the gin-clear water we could pretty much see her from bow to stern. Armaments scattered her still-intact decks, and the coning tower silhouetted majestically. It was a sight to thrill any wreck diver. Her props were magnificent. There was so much to take in. She actually looked like she could set sail at any moment. On top of that she was encrusted in beautiful corals, had shoals of fish all over her and we even got a visit from a few sharks. Now that was wreck diving. Goose pimples galore.
We began our long return leg. No one cared how long it took; it had been so very worth it. Even staying on Ebeye Island (which should have been called Brown Eye Island) was not enough to detract from the fact that we had all been to diving heaven.
We dived a fair few other wrecks, too many to mention and in all honesty, only reading this is just not right. You need to go. Sell a kidney, a finger or your car. Sacrifice your career, extend your mortgage, make the arduous journey. Whatever it takes, just do it.
If there is a God, I’d like to say a little thank you. I need most of all to thank my wife Lisa for letting me realise my dreams and travel with unarguably the best “expedition” crew, team and organisers to what can only be described as the best wreck diving I have ever done.
Thank you all.
So what are you doing in 2016 Pete?
Photos included in the three-part series ‘Toomer Does Bikini’ courtesy of Simon Mitchell
Paul is the Director of Training at RAID. To find out more about the courses that RAID offers, visit www.diveraid.com.
Blogs
TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 3
Today we are diving one of the outer reefs from an inflatable. As we reach the bottom, a reef octopus eases its way into the cover of a small crack in the coral while displaying it’s incredible ability to change colour. They are arguably one of the most charismatic of reef dwellers and it is always exciting for me to simply hover and watch. I would have spent longer and waited for it to come and investigate me, but as dive time is limited we wanted to move on and find a turtle.
The waters around Somabay are well protected and hold a rich variety of marine life. The reef edges are thriving colonies of coral and shoaling fish, while nearer the sea bed plenty of wildlife is still to be found.
Then we located the turtles. They are very used to divers and so show little concern when slowly approached. In fact occasionally one will come over to see what you are doing. There is always huge excitement when diving with a turtle. The shear thrill of sharing a moment with another species.
What a fantastic way to finish a wonderful few days diving and I would like to thank SOMABAY, ORCA DIVING and THE BREAKERS for making my stay such a good one.
I had a great time, with diving everyday either on the house reef or on one of the offshore reefs by inflatable or larger day boat. Orca diving provided high quality equipment and facilities while the staff were all very friendly and welcoming. The Breakers was right on the coast with nice rooms, good food and once again friendly staff making the whole trip a real pleasure.
Soma Bay covers an entire peninsula and is home to several resorts as well as residential compounds.
As well as scuba diving, Somabay caters for many other sports and activities, and so is perfect for families as well as individuals and/or groups. And of course there is always time to lay peacefully on the beach under the Egyptian sun.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
Blogs
TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 2
Day three of my trip to Somabay and we were spending the day on the Lady Christina and diving on the wreck of the Salem Express.
Diving wrecks for me is always one of mixed emotions. The excitement of diving a wreck is more than often tempered by the thought of loss of life when she sank. The Salem Express was a passenger ship and a roll-on/roll-off ferry travelling from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga, Egypt. Most passengers were of poor class travelling home from their holidays while around 150 people were returning home from their pilgrimage to Mecca.
The ship struck a reef and sank within 20 minutes. Passengers were trapped below deck and the ship was filled with fear and panic.
The wreck area is strewn with personal belongings from the crew and passengers such as a transistor radio and a flat iron for clothes. A diver at sometime has put them in a prominent place to be seen.
Tragically only one life boat was launched while the others went down with the ship. More than 600 men, women and children lost their lives here.
It’s a stark reminder that the sea can be unforgiving and so when we dive on such wrecks we should do so with humble regard.
Returning to the surface, shoals of fish are gathered under our boat and seem to be welcoming us back into the light.
Back at the Breakers I sat in the dining area with a beer and a very good meal while my thoughts still remained with the day’s dive on the Salem Express.
Check in for part 3 tomorrow for Jeff’s last day of diving with Somabay on the off-shore reefs looking for turtles.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
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