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Scapa Flow Centenary: The Insiders’ Perspective

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CJ interviewed Rachael, Adrien and Ethan, who have worked this dive season with Scapa Scuba in Scapa Flow, 100 years after the scuttling of the German High Seas Fleet.  CJ asked them to reflect on their year while on the ferry ride home.

CJ: Here we are after a great week of diving in Scapa Flow.  It’s the centenary year and we had a great time on the boat visiting our friends Adrien and Rachael, instructors at Scapa Scuba, and Ethan, who completed his dive master training at Scapa Scuba this season. Since they have been resident and working in Scapa Flow for the entire centenary year, we thought we would get their perspective on how the anniversary year has gone.

CJ: How long have you been diving in Scapa Flow?

Rachael and Adrien: Two years for us.

Ethan: This season, and four times previously. 

CJ: There are loads of really cool sites to dive in Scapa Flow, but what is your favourite, and why?

Adrien: I’d have to say the Markgraf, one of the battleships up here.  It is still in really good condition, the bow and the stern are completely intact so they are quite a sight to see.

Rachael: The Cöln, one of the light cruisers. It’s the most intact of the light cruisers and has a really awesome swim-through.  

CJ: I have to say I love that swim through, it’s probably my favourite bit as well.

Ethan: The König for me, because you can see all of the technical stuff inside of it.  It feels like a twisted metal reef the way it’s been blown up and warped, so it feels more like something you would see in a tropical reef and it’s quite nice.

CJ: This year is a very special one, with it being the centenary.  How was it being here for the year?

Adrien: It wasn’t much different for us as a dive centre; we still had the same routines.  I think for the charter boats it was quite busy though.

Rachael: It was nice to be part of all the celebrations that went on, and there were a lot of talks on the anniversary.

CJ: How about you Ethan, were you too busy with your divemaster training to enjoy it?

Ethan: No, I thought it was really good.  Of course we’re here for such a long time and getting to go to all of the conferences and exhibitions it really nails home why you do this, and the real history of the place.

CJ: Did you get to do anything special on the centenary?  Any particular talks or exhibitions that you enjoyed?

Adrien: We went to the final conference, it was very interesting.

Rachael:  It was really good!

Adrien:  There were the Royal Navy and German Navy bands playing musical pieces, a documentary and a German historian talking about the scuttling, it was really interesting.

Rachael:  The German Admiral was there, it was really special, Adrien even got to sit next to the grandson of Sir Fremantle.

Adrien:  He was a Vice Admiral in the Royal Navy and Commander of the 1st Battle Squadron, he oversaw the interned German High Seas Fleet at the time of the scuttling.  And at the event his grandson was sitting right there beside me.

CJ:  We have heard that Scapa Scuba is closing after this season, will you still be up here next year?

Adrien and Rachael:  Yes, we’ll stay here, but do something different.

CJ:  There are dive professionals up here so presumably there will still be lots of diving.

Rachael: For sure.

CJ:  Ethan, how does it feel to have been a DM here in the final season?

Ethan:  It’s been fun, it’s been amazing really!

CJ:  In the dive briefings you always look at the guide books with the multi-beam scan images to get an idea of what to expect and to help plan the dives, it is quite different down there, there has been deterioration on the wrecks.  I have noticed from 2 years ago, when we last dived here, to this season there is a bit more damage, wrecks have deteriorated with winter storms.  Given that this is just going to continue, do you think the wrecks will maintain their character and still be interesting as they degrade?

Rachael & Adrien:  I think so.  Yes, I’m sure.

Adrien:  It’ll open up new areas of the ships as they break down, you will be able to see some of the insides that are not easily accessible.

Rachael:  Take the Karlsruhe, it’s broken up, but there’s lots of features that you can see that you couldn’t if it was intact.

CJ:  That’s a very nice point, so do you think the wrecks will continue to draw scuba divers here for the next 100 years?

Adrien:  Oh yes, for sure!

Rachael:  Yes I think so!

CJ: Theres is always going to be something cool about the big battleships isn’t there?

Adrien:  The battleships are strongly built, they will be intact for a long time, they’ll still be there for the next 100 years.

Rachael:  The König is now a reef system, it attracts so much life, which is another good aspect of the wrecks.

CJ: What has been your favourite experience this year?

Adrien:  At the end of the season we were diving with some more experienced divers and got to do some different dives.  I got to do the Markgraf and go to the bow, it’s one of the best sites in Scapa Flow.

Rachael:  For me it was at the beginning of the season, I was guiding this 73 years old man and on his very last day, we dived the F2 and had a seal with us for the whole dive swimming round us.  It was really special, and it was really special for him.

Ethan:  Towards the end of the season I was lucky enough to go onto the bow of the Markgraf, to look up at that colossal structure, it was an amazing experience.

CJ: Fantastic, I think that’s about it, except can I come diving with you again next year?

Rachael & Adrien:  (Laughing) Yes!

CJ: Woo, awesome! Well, thank you guys for chatting with me.


You can watch the full video (with some ferry noise in the background) HERE and follow more of CJ and Mike’s diving adventures at www.bimbleintheblue.com.

CJ and Mike are dive instructors who have travelled all over the world pursuing their passion for the underwater world. CJ is a PADI MI and DSAT Trimix instructor with a degree in Conservation biology and ecology, who has been diving for 15 years. She loves looking for critters and pointing them out for Mike to photograph. Mike is a PADI MSDT who got back into diving in 2010. He enjoys practicing underwater photography and exploring new and exciting dive locales, occasionally with more than one tank. Follow more of their diving adventures at www.facebook.com/bimbleintheblue.

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TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 2

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Day three of my trip to Somabay and we were spending the day on the Lady Christina and diving on the wreck of the Salem Express.

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Diving wrecks for me is always one of mixed emotions. The excitement of diving a wreck is more than often tempered by the thought of loss of life when she sank. The Salem Express was a passenger ship and a roll-on/roll-off ferry travelling from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga, Egypt. Most passengers were of poor class travelling home from their holidays while around 150 people were returning home from their pilgrimage to Mecca.

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The ship struck a reef and sank within 20 minutes. Passengers were trapped below deck and the ship was filled with fear and panic.

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The wreck area is strewn with personal belongings from the crew and passengers such as a transistor radio and a flat iron for clothes. A diver at sometime has put them in a prominent place to be seen.

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Tragically only one life boat was launched while the others went down with the ship. More than 600 men, women and children lost their lives here.

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It’s a stark reminder that the sea can be unforgiving and so when we dive on such wrecks we should do so with humble regard.

Returning to the surface, shoals of fish are gathered under our boat and seem to be welcoming us back into the light.

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Back at the Breakers I sat in the dining area with a beer and a very good meal while my thoughts still remained with the day’s dive on the Salem Express.

Check in for part 3 tomorrow for Jeff’s last day of diving with Somabay on the off-shore reefs looking for turtles.

Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.

Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit  www.thebreakers-somabay.com.

Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.

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TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 1

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somabay

For a week at the end of February I was invited to sample the diving with Orca Dive Club based at the Breakers Diving and Surfing Lodge by courtesy of SOMABAY.

Somabay covers an entire peninsula and is home to several resorts as well as residential  compounds. Somabay caters for scuba diving as well as many other sports, including windsurfing, golf, sailing, go-carting, horse riding and many other activities.

All the activities are of a world-class standard and any or all of these can be booked directly from The Breakers.

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I took Easyjet from Bristol (UK) to Hurghada. Easyjet are not by any means my favourite airline but the flight was cheap and direct (except for the surprise extra £48 I was charged at the gate for my carry-on bag).

I was met at Hurghada airport by a driver and car and taken to the Breakers 28 miles (45Kilomaters) south along the coast. Once at the hotel I was too late for an evening meal and so a basic meal was delivered to my room. That and a beer from the fridge and I was fast asleep.

Early the next morning after breakfast I arrived for my rep meeting at the Orca Dive Center for 8.00am. I was immediately made to feel welcome, and after brief introductions I got some dive gear from the store, had a chat with my dive guide Mohamed and got ready to try the house reef situated at the end of a very long wooded pier where all diving gear and divers are taken out by buggies.

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Once at the end of the pier, a helping hand from staff makes sure your gear is set and then it’s a short walk to the very end where you can either climb down a ladder of simply jump in the water  next to the reef. The house reef extends both north and south giving a very easy and safe dive with plenty to see. At this time of the year the water temperature was a constant 22 degrees Centigrade and there was little or no current, so there were no issues in swimming back to the pier.

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Quite a few divers were in dry or semi-dry suits, but being from the UK and used to the cold I found a 3mm wetsuit with a 3mm neoprene vest quite comfortable. Even after 50 years of diving I still find that first dive of a trip slightly nerving until I am actually underwater and then all becomes relaxed and I ease into auto diving mode. There was plenty to see with many of the Red Sea favourites along the way.

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After the dive and a buggy ride back to the hotel for a very good buffet lunch I was back in the water, once again on the house reef for an afternoon dive.

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Check in for part 2 tomorrow when Jeff gets on a day boat and dives a few of the off-shore reefs.

Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.

Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit  www.thebreakers-somabay.com.

Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.

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