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River Diving

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If you like diving and underwater photography as much as I do and you live 3. 5 hours inland from a good dive site, you might find yourself looking to a new venue to enjoy. I will openly admit I had a mission as I wanted pictures of freshwater fish, especially salmon. Thus began my river diving adventures this summer.

I am inspired by the work of Martin Edge and Eiko Jones and what they do with light underwater (the “God Beams” as the topside photographers say) and was thinking about some ways to do some new things I had in mind with long exposure and ambient light. As a lot of river diving here in Oregon can be relatively shallow in the rivers (relatively shallow being less than 25 feet). I was really wanting to work with ambient lighting in clear waters and be on eye level with the royalty of the fish world – salmon and steelhead trout.

The next logical thing to do was put together an investigatory dive. Equipment was my first consideration starting with photographic gear. I packed my Olympus OMD-E1 in a Nauticam housing with a Panasonic Lumix 8mm fisheye lens and a 4.33 dome port and then started to think about dive gear. I was diving the McKenzie River in Oregon which has gin clear visibility; however, it is also a frigid 49 degrees F, so I packed my Bare crushed neoprene drysuit and whites fusion thermals. I packed my warm water fins as they are shorter and lighter than my Apollo biofins, and I selected two aluminum 80 tanks with 3000 psi a piece as my steel 100 tanks weigh 40 pounds and I didn’t know what access would be like or how long I would be walking with gear on. My lightweight warmwater backplate and regulator was added to the gear pile with a 12 pound weight belt plus 4 extra pounds – surely that would be plenty. It was not, which I discovered later.

River diving entails a few different things that you may or may not be used to. Number one is current, and in some cases, a LOT of current. You may be wearing 20-25 pounds in a wetsuit/drysuit in 5 feet of water so you can stay down. Freshwater is deceiving as you do need less weight than salt, but you have to overweight to account for current.  I also have had to anchor myself along the bottom in interesting ways with a robust stainless steel reef stick that I own and by shooting with one hand and hanging on to logs, rocks, etc. with my other hand.

Riffle, Middle Fork Willamette River, Oregon.

Riffle, Middle Fork Willamette River, Oregon.

Fish are often found under tree roots so this can be very good shooting. I also did some shooting where I lay in the middle of a big riffle (stretch of fast moving water) and just shot water flowing over me while I anchored in with my stainless steel reef stick.My first dive I did not think about extra weight and I was soon sailing along like a balloon underwater getting blown through culverts and into large woody debris piles until I started to anchor myself by grabbing onto stuff and by putting rocks in my pockets for extra weight. Not getting my camera knocked out of my hands or rubbing the dome port glass on rocks was also a challenge. I also used my feet to push against logs so I could face into the current and shoot.

Number two is temperature. Some rivers you can go with little or no exposure suit, however I wouldn’t recommend that due to rocks, logs, etc scraping you up. My home rivers in the summer range from 65 to 48 degrees F. I found that for me I like the freedom of a wetsuit and for temperatures down to 55 degrees I was good in a 5mm wetsuit. Below 55 I could last about 20 minutes and then my teeth were chattering. At that point I was using my crushed neoprene drysuit with thermals.

I can go gloveless to 50 degrees but below that I would wear 5mm gloves. I usually always wear a hood to keep my hair out of my way. I’m toasty with this set up but temperature is a personal thing.

I recently hiked into a mountain waterfall and skin dove with my 5mm wetsuit to try and get some good over and under shots. The water was 47 degrees F which was pretty chilly but 20 minutes of being chilly was worth it for the shots I got there.

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What lies beneath. Butte Falls, Oregon.

Number three is access and the diving style. Access to some rivers is back up to the side and jump in while with others you have to walk along the riverbank to get to a place you can safely access. Some rivers you have to climb down the sides and these sides can be steep and/or rocky and doing this with gear on can be a strenuous experience. Not falling down the side of a river on top of your camera gear and rolling into blackberry bushes on the way down is really the goal. Being somewhat nimble and strong is a plus for these rivers. River diving is not about calmly swimming along with perfect buoyancy most of the time. Many times you are crawling in between pools if water is low and sometimes you have to get out and walk to the next pool. Sometimes you can get into deep pools and these are really nice places to shoot when fish are holding there. These you can swim around, although I like to employ stealth technique and sit or lie calmly on the bottom until the fish are done being freaked out. I then let them get back to their regular business so I can take shots.

A curious bluegill in the Middle Fork Willamette River, Oregon.

A curious bluegill in the Middle Fork Willamette River, Oregon.

Some observations on fish behavior… I found that juvenile fish are much more curious than adults. Some adult fish can be very skittish, and some can be very bold and rush right up to you.

Freshwater sculpin are very fun to photograph and they are full of attitude as their marine cousins and they will fearlessly swim right up to you and sit right in front of your dome port. They are ferocious predators and will attack anything they think could fit in their mouth. Warmwater fish such as bass or bluegill are the most curious of the fish. They will literally photobomb every picture you take and they will nibble on your hands, mask, face, etc.

Sculpin watching trout. Cedar Creek, Oregon.

Sculpin watching trout. Cedar Creek, Oregon.

Male smallmouth bass are quite beautiful when they are mating or guarding their nests and can make striking pictures. Similar behavior is exhibited by native minnows such as dace, shiners, chub, and suckers.

I am currently working on a series of shoots with fall Chinook salmon that have returned from the ocean after 4-5 years of being away from their natal streams. How these fish find their way back to the very place they emerged from the gravel is an amazing question to me. Even near death these fish command respect as they have returned to fulfill a mission that started over 5,000 years ago. I wax poetic here as I am a fisheries biologist by trade.

I do NOT dive alone EVER in rivers. There are too many variables to not have a buddy or shore support. Yes, you have a BCD and regulator, however if you get stuck in a large woody debris pile or hung up on the bottom for some reason there could be a very bad outcome. Having another pair of eyes on you is a good thing. If you bring along a creative “dry” photographer they can take good topside pictures. I have not needed to tether up due to high river current to date but having someone watching your tether at all times is a smart thing to plan for. I usually do some scouting in advance for possible sites so I know what to bring.

I might add that I am eternally grateful to my cohorts in the fishery business who have clued me in to good sites and times to go and in some cases even driven me around and put me in on some great fish action. Treat these people well and buy them beer as they can be key to some beautiful pictures.

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Male spring Chinook salmon, North Santiam River, Oregon.

My last plug is for quiet respect of fish, especially if you are somewhere where they are spawning. This is not a good time to be upsetting fish and driving them away from their spawning beds. Better to wait until after the spawning or before to get pictures. There is a fine line between harassment and annoyance so please understand that line and respect it.

I love diving our beautiful Pacific Northwest seas but I also feel that river diving adds a fun and new slant of the beauty of the underwater world and you definitely get to see things you do not see in the ocean environment… plus you don’t have to soak your gear so much after you dive freshwater!

You can see more of Laura’s underwater photography here.

Laura Tesler lives in Oregon and works for the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. Laura has a degree in fisheries biology, and has logged almost 400 dives (80% coldwater) since being certified in 2006. She is a PADI Divemaster and a level 5 REEF surveyor. Laura has been taking underwater pictures since 2010 and has traveled extensively on dive trips. Laura has been married for 26 years and has one son. They do not dive, but she loves them anyway.

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Excerpts from Jeff Goodman’s Book Action Camera Underwater Video Basics, Part 1 of 6: Choosing a Camera

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Unlike DSLR or dedicated video models, action cameras are far easier to choose and understand. One of the joys of these small devices is that they can produce excellent quality results in their full auto mode even if you have no prior knowledge about video or photography. Other than the positioning or mounting of the camera there seems to be very little else for you to do except press ‘record’ and sooner or later ‘stop.’ However, this does put the camera and the technicians who created it in full control of how it shoots the scene or action that you are filming. the camera is making the decisions for you. this can work pretty well, but does not always produce the best possible results. these cameras are remarkably clever, but alas not intelligent enough to know what it is exactly you are trying to achieve. So with just a little extra knowledge you will be able to choose the right gear, take control of the settings and create video and photos much more to your own design.

A very basic rule is that you get what you pay for. So the more expensive the camera then the more options and add-ons you would expect to be available. At the time of writing, top-of-the-line cameras can cost upwards of £300 (roughly $400) whereas a lower end model may come in at £20–100 ($25–130) and do the required job reasonably well. Let’s look at the basic requirements and discuss additional features which will make your video life far easier and more rewarding.

They will also govern the overall quality of your video. If you don’t already have a camera these are some of the optimal things to look for.

Screen

Most action cameras have a screen so you can see exactly what you are filming. Some do not. As we look to move forward from the basic point-and-shoot way of using action cameras, a screen becomes important. It gives you certainty that all the action is happening within your frame and you are not clipping off anything important. A screen will also show you how your lighting looks. this is especially important when mixing an artificial video light with ambient natural light.

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If you have a camera without any sort of screen, I recommend practice and experimentation to get to know exactly what angle your lens covers at any given distance from a subject. Take a shot on land and when you play it back on an independent screen look carefully and note how much of the picture you thought you were taking is actually in frame. Try this for distance shots as well as close-ups.

Depending on what kind of optics your camera has, you will find that underwater the angle of coverage decreases by around one quarter. this is also affected by any additional lens you attach to the outside of your housing — see ‘Accessories: Lenses’ later in this chapter.

Depth rating and construction

Not all action cameras on the market are suitable for diving. Some are only designed to be water resistant, which is good for surface sports such as skiing, cycling or canoeing. Others are fully waterproof but only down to a depth of ten metres, which is good for snorkelling or surfing. For example, the GoPro or the Insta 360.

Be sure you pick a camera (or camera and housing) that has a depth rating suitable for your diving intentions. Most housings are guaranteed down to depths of 30m (100ft) or more, but do be sure and stick to the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Before buying, take a good look at how the housing seals are made and function. Are the closing clips flimsy, or substantial and well-made?  The same question should be asked of the hinges.

Resolution and quality

Many cameras offer video resolution of 720p or 1080p. Most also do 2K and 4K. Starting at the lower end, 720p is ‘High-Definition’ (HD), but is only half the resolution of ‘Full HD’ 1080p. This means 1080p has twice as much image detail and produces images that are twice as large in terms of overall pixel count. However, 1080p also takes up twice as much storage space on your memory card. There then follows the issue of having enough computing power to play back the larger resolution files. This especially applies when filming 4K, which has four times the resolution of 1080p. Although you should be able to play these very ‘high-res’ video files on your TV through your camera, it is not guaranteed that your edit computer will have enough processing power to play the files smoothly.

This becomes particularly noticeable when trying to edit and add effects.

720p has 1,280 pixels displayed across the screen horizontally and 720 pixels down the screen vertically. this gives us 720 horizontal lines on the screen. Before HD came in the normal resolution was 480p, standard definition (SD). SD is now seen as very poor quality.

For most people 720p produces a very high quality image and is excellent for editing and posting e.g. on YouTube. If you are able to process and edit 1080p and have a good speed on your internet, then this is the best option for even greater quality. If you are able to process and edit 2K and 4K then the world is your oyster. In short, film at a resolution that you can edit. Do a test. Film something at 2K then try to play and edit it on your computer. If it works well without any pixelation, breaking up or freezing of the image then try 4K. If the 2K doesn’t work then go lower, try 1080p and so on.

However, although 720p is usable at the time of writing this book, technology moves so fast that it is probable this resolution will no longer be used in the near future and be fully replaced by the higher alternatives.

It is possible to edit 2K and 4K on low specification or old computers by using proxy files and online editing. This copies video files to a lower resolution which your edit software and computer can deal with. then before exporting the final edited sequence or film the proxy files are replaced with the original full resolution versions. But this is for those who are experienced with editing software and is beyond the purposes of this book.

An alternative solution is to film everything in the best possible resolution and archive those files for future use. Meanwhile, convert the files you want to edit now into low resolution copies with video converter software. Free versions can be accessed on the web, for example Any Video Converter and Freemake Video Converter.

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When shooting at higher resolutions, the image size can be expanded or increased in the edit without too much noticeable loss of quality. This is particularly useful in re-framing your image or taking part of it to use as a close-up. Somewhere between 25–40% is usually as far as you can go before quality loss starts to become noticeable, but this does depend on the overall standard of the original frame where sharpness, contrast and image density are all factors. Higher resolution images are also better for extracting single frames to print out as photos or to use in publications.

NEXT WEEK:

Part 2 of 6 – Underwater Lighting

Action Camera Underwater Video Basics by Jeff Goodman is available now from DIVEDUP Publications:
https://www.divedup.com/shop/action-camera-underwater-video-basics-the-essential-guide-to-making-underwater-films/

About Jeff Goodman

action camera

Jeff is a multiple award-winning freelance TV cameraman/filmmaker and author. Having made both terrestrial and marine films, it is the world’s oceans and their conservation that hold his passion, with over 10,000 dives in his career. Having filmed for international television companies around the world and as author of two books on underwater filming, Jeff is Author/Programme Specialist for the Underwater Action Camera course for the RAID training agency.

Jeff has experienced the rapid advances in technology for diving as well as camera equipment, and has also experienced much of our planet’s marine life. He has witnessed, first-hand, many of the changes that have occurred to the wildlife and environment during that time.

Jeff runs bespoke underwater video and editing workshops for the complete beginner up to the budding professional.

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Gear Reviews

Gear Review: Zeagle Covert XT BCD (Watch Video)

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In a video created exclusively for Scubaverse.com, Jeff Goodman reviews the Covert XT BCD from Zeagle.

Find out more abut Zeagle products at www.zeagle.com.

Sea & Sea is the home of Zeagle and other leading diving brands in the UK.

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