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Pierre-Yves Cousteau’s Journey to Galapagos
The Galapagos… the word itself is enough to inspire awe and make you think of an iguana. Far from the agitations of society, smack on the equator, these islands have always hosted incredibly rich and diverse marine life. It’s also home to the only penguins of the northern hemisphere. It’s awesome.
People come from all over the world to visit its islands and see its birds, to feel its terrestrial wilderness and contemplate its history. Little do they know… the incredibly lush and diverse marine life that lies just beneath the surface of its waters. People who don’t dive are missing out on 75% of the planet! Do it.
I tied up the loose ends at my job as marine program officer at IUCN and set up the out-of-office reply with a smile… I love my work there, it’s stimulating and useful. But sometimes it’s good to be reminded of why you do what you do. Equipment is tested, bags are packed. Soon I’ll be flying across the world to one of this planet’s last sanctuaries of marine life, and birthplace of evolutionary biology. The Galapagos… I’ll be there for three full weeks, two of which will be at sea.
This is my second trip to the Galapagos with Waterproof Expeditions. During the first expedition, in 2012, I was shooting pics and video for Cousteau Divers and engaging the divers on-board to collect their observations with our citizen-science divelogs, developed with the help of Dr. Rebecca Klaus. This time, I will be adding the protocols of Project Hermes, a new feature of Cousteau Divers I launched in 2015, with the help of over a hundred donors, to reveal the temperature of the ocean using dive computers.
This year though, it’s El-Niño… and that usually spells trouble for the marine life of these islands. This cyclical weather event happens every several years and is characterised by an increase in sea temperatures and reduction of marine currents that bring nutrients to the surface, impairing the primary production of algae. But scientists are saying this one could be the strongest ever seen. Previous such events have been known to devastate marine life and the animals that depend on it like penguins and iguanas.
Will we witness the difference between 2012 and today’s El-Niño-menaced Galapagos? Will the citizen-science protocols deployed at the time and during this trip by Cousteau Divers help better understand the phenomenon? Will hungry sharks be more curious than usual? I can’t wait to find out. In the context of climate change and generally warming ocean temperatures, something as normal as El-Niño could take unprecedented proportion.
My father and his teams filmed the marine life of the Galapagos in 1971. A few days ago, I dove into the Cousteau archives in search for photos of the expedition to help reveal the difference, the impact that the powerful El-Niño events of 1982 and 1997 had on the marine life. I did not find anything conclusive, but I will resume my research when I return, armed with new images from the trip.
Diving into the Cousteau archives.
On this trip I will be shooting photos and videos using my friend and mentor Manu San Felix’s D800 and Hugyfot housing as well as a ridiculously useful GoPro (I can’t imagine what my father would have done if those had been around in his day). For lighting I have two small but efficient strobes and two incredibly powerful Big Blue lights (15k lumens each). For Project Hermes, we will be uploading temperatures from our dive computers, testing the Divemate Fusion for mobile integration and deploying a Sensus Ultra, which is a good calibration instrument, given the error margins of dive computers. We will also be using the same divelog methods we used in 2012. I’ve brought along a very small and cheap drone for areal filming… yes I know there is a 92% probability that I will crash it, but I might get some good footage beforehand.
My friend Steve Romano is joining the first week. He does amazing super high-speed video and hopes to catch some diving birds in action. He said something about bringing along a Virtual Reality camera too… more on that in the next post. I’ve also heard that the president of Ecuador is planning to declare a new status for the Galapagos marine sanctuary… which could be signed next week? I’ve learned quite a bit about the challenges of setting these up from my job at IUCN and my work in Santorini, Greece. Let’s see.
I know we’re in for a treat. And I count on the uncertainty that characterises exploration to amaze us and reveal new mysteries of the sea. In the heart of the ocean I find new energy, new hope, new awe. I feel at home beneath the surface, more than anywhere, and I look forward to taking you on a guided tour.
www.waterproof-expeditions.com
For more blogs from Pierre-Yves Cousteau, visit cousteaudivers.wordpress.com.
Day three of my trip to Somabay and we were spending the day on the Lady Christina and diving on the wreck of the Salem Express.
Diving wrecks for me is always one of mixed emotions. The excitement of diving a wreck is more than often tempered by the thought of loss of life when she sank. The Salem Express was a passenger ship and a roll-on/roll-off ferry travelling from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga, Egypt. Most passengers were of poor class travelling home from their holidays while around 150 people were returning home from their pilgrimage to Mecca.
The ship struck a reef and sank within 20 minutes. Passengers were trapped below deck and the ship was filled with fear and panic.
The wreck area is strewn with personal belongings from the crew and passengers such as a transistor radio and a flat iron for clothes. A diver at sometime has put them in a prominent place to be seen.
Tragically only one life boat was launched while the others went down with the ship. More than 600 men, women and children lost their lives here.
It’s a stark reminder that the sea can be unforgiving and so when we dive on such wrecks we should do so with humble regard.
Returning to the surface, shoals of fish are gathered under our boat and seem to be welcoming us back into the light.
Back at the Breakers I sat in the dining area with a beer and a very good meal while my thoughts still remained with the day’s dive on the Salem Express.
Check in for part 3 tomorrow for Jeff’s last day of diving with Somabay on the off-shore reefs looking for turtles.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
For a week at the end of February I was invited to sample the diving with Orca Dive Club based at the Breakers Diving and Surfing Lodge by courtesy of SOMABAY.
Somabay covers an entire peninsula and is home to several resorts as well as residential compounds. Somabay caters for scuba diving as well as many other sports, including windsurfing, golf, sailing, go-carting, horse riding and many other activities.
All the activities are of a world-class standard and any or all of these can be booked directly from The Breakers.
I took Easyjet from Bristol (UK) to Hurghada. Easyjet are not by any means my favourite airline but the flight was cheap and direct (except for the surprise extra £48 I was charged at the gate for my carry-on bag).
I was met at Hurghada airport by a driver and car and taken to the Breakers 28 miles (45Kilomaters) south along the coast. Once at the hotel I was too late for an evening meal and so a basic meal was delivered to my room. That and a beer from the fridge and I was fast asleep.
Early the next morning after breakfast I arrived for my rep meeting at the Orca Dive Center for 8.00am. I was immediately made to feel welcome, and after brief introductions I got some dive gear from the store, had a chat with my dive guide Mohamed and got ready to try the house reef situated at the end of a very long wooded pier where all diving gear and divers are taken out by buggies.
Once at the end of the pier, a helping hand from staff makes sure your gear is set and then it’s a short walk to the very end where you can either climb down a ladder of simply jump in the water next to the reef. The house reef extends both north and south giving a very easy and safe dive with plenty to see. At this time of the year the water temperature was a constant 22 degrees Centigrade and there was little or no current, so there were no issues in swimming back to the pier.
Quite a few divers were in dry or semi-dry suits, but being from the UK and used to the cold I found a 3mm wetsuit with a 3mm neoprene vest quite comfortable. Even after 50 years of diving I still find that first dive of a trip slightly nerving until I am actually underwater and then all becomes relaxed and I ease into auto diving mode. There was plenty to see with many of the Red Sea favourites along the way.
After the dive and a buggy ride back to the hotel for a very good buffet lunch I was back in the water, once again on the house reef for an afternoon dive.
Check in for part 2 tomorrow when Jeff gets on a day boat and dives a few of the off-shore reefs.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
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