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Going Bananas in the Bahamas

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Time management took on a whole new meaning during my balmy 5 day tour of the Bahamas. We couldn’t have crammed in anymore activities even if we tried, it was absolutely bananas! Nathan Birac from the Bahamas tourist office had arranged visits to 4 different islands which included multiple flights, speed boats, taxi rides, hotel inspections, sightseeing tours and yes, I even managed to squeeze in one or two dives. I could have quite happily played the lead role in the 1987 comedy movie planes, trains and automobiles.

My whistle stop tour began at Nassau international airport where we were all issued with boarding tickets to North Eleuthera airport. I was travelling with a small group of UK tour operators and dive journalists so at least I wouldn’t be suffering in silence.

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After sharing a bizarre flight with the Billy Bob clan, we piled into Lazy Joe’s taxi and shot off at a break neck speed of 10 miles per hour heading for the boat transfer. I’m not sure if Lazy Joe had problems with the gearbox but we only changed up to 3rd gear once throughout the entire 20 minute journey. I always find that British sarcasm works well in these situations! After a 15 minute boat taxi ride we arrived on Harbour Island which would be our temporary home for the next 24 hours or so.

Harbour Island, known locally as Briland, is located at the northern tip of Eleuthera. Valentines Resort and Marina is the biggest hotel on the island. The resort offers 40 luxury suites with kitchens and patios, a swimming pool, restaurant and a resident PADI dive centre which turned out to be a friendly well run business.

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Valentines Dive Centre is owned by 2 couples, George and Francine Gross and Dawn and Boyd Reise-Ward. This was actually their first year of ownership. They operate 2 hard boats from the on-site marina. We managed to commandeer Sea Dweller, an 11m Sea Hawk with twin 300hp engines, for the whole day and visit some of the local dive attractions.

Bahamas 12For our first dive George took us to a site called Current Cut which was an exhilarating 7-9 knot drift dive through the main channel between Current Island and mainland Eleuthera. What makes this dive unique is we actually did 3 x 15 minute drift dives using just 1 cylinder of air. So to explain further, we jumped in, drifted through the channel, made an ascent to the surface 15 minutes later, got picked up by the boat, drove back to the other side of the channel and then repeated steps 1 to 5 again and yet again. The depth varied from just 2-3m at the outer edges to 18m in the middle of the channel. There was no shortage of marine life including turtles, batfish, jacks, sharks, angelfish and row upon row of big meaty lobsters. I found plenty of swim through’s, gullies and channels which offered me some protection against the strong currents while I was taking pictures. The whole group gave this site a 10/10 rating.

Bahamas 22Our next dive site was called Devils Backbone. Over the years this treacherous barrier reef had claimed several ships. George recommended the Arimora which was a 79m long Lebanese freighter that had ran aground in May 1970 carrying a cargo of fertilizer. The low lying wreck is scattered over a wide area at a maximum depth of 8m. I managed to persuade PADI Instructor Chelsea Crowthers to guide me around the site and double up as a model for my pictures. I focused on the more intact section of the wreck which made my pictures slightly more interesting. There was also a good selection of colourful reef fish darting about as well as nurse sharks and barracuda.

The next day we were back at north Eleuthera airport bound for Stella Maris airport on Long Island. Nathan had rented an 8-seater twin engine Piper Chieftain charter plane for the short island hop. This was the first time I had been in a plane this small, I felt like a VIP. We had some great views of the islands, cays and islets a few thousand feet below us but it was a real shame I had left my camera locked away in the hold. At the airport we were met by Brook Castelsky, the GM of the Cape Santa Maria Resort, and chauffeured to the property. The secluded resort offers 20 bungalows and a few villas spread out along a beautiful white sandy beach. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to thoroughly explore the place but what I saw I really liked, great ambience, the perfect getaway for couples and honeymooners.

We managed to rack up 2 dives with the resident dive centre. Our first dive at a site called Barracuda heads was about 25 minute’s boat ride away. This was a small reef surrounded by sand with a number of lionfish inhabited swim throughs. Other marine life included barracuda, a shoal of jacks, grouper and a number of inquisitive Caribbean reef sharks which was more than enough to keep everybody interested. As we made our way back to the mooring line I spotted a 1.5m stingray patrolling in the sand. I tried to get closer for a wide angle picture but the ray was way too skittish.

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In 1986 the 31m long British freighter MV Comberbach was sunk as a diver attraction about 15 minutes boat ride from Cape Santa Maria Resort. Lying at a maximum depth of 30m it was too deep for some members of our party but I still wanted to take a look. The wreck sits upright and is virtually intact. It’s still possible to penetrate the bridge area down to the engine room and explore the cargo hold. Just to make the wreck more interesting a Ford van has been dumped at the front of the cargo hold. I tried to get a shot of Charlie Munns, from Dive Worldwide, holding onto the steering wheel but there was far too much silt kicking about. My best moment was watching a pair of white spotted file fish nibbling away on the bright orange tube sponges that had colonised the decks.

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In no time at all we were back at Stella Maris airport and flying to Nassau International airport ready for another hotel transfer, this time, to the 694 room Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort and Casino on New Providence Island. Stuart Cove Dive Centre seems to dominate the entire island. This uber professional operation has all the Disney like trappings including pink trademark tee shirts, mugs, coasters, gift cards etc. Stuart opened the dive centre in 1978 with his earnings from a James Bond film. His empire, which is based at the 1995 Flipper movie set, now runs 7 dive custom boats.

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Nathan had booked us up for the Stuart Cove extreme shark program which is 2 dives at the shark arena site. This is basically an orientation dive along the wall so divers can get used to seeing sharks followed by a more intense session where everybody sits in a circle and watches the staff feeding the sharks.

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Dynamic duo Terri and Georgia were running the show. I wanted to take some close up pictures so Terri gave me a chain mail suit to wear for protection. There were around 20 Caribbean reef sharks and the odd sneaky nurse shark lunging for the fish. Other marine life included big black grouper and 100’s of yellow tail snapper. The snapper were a total pain and ended up getting in all my pictures. Overall the sharks behaved well, the punters were extremely happy and the staff provided an excellent service.

Bahamas 14I had always wanted to see the old James Bond wrecks especially the Vulcan bomber used in Thunderball but when we arrived on site the plane wasn’t exactly how I had imagined it to be. There was just a triangular mesh of steel tubes covered in corals. In fact the only resemblance to a plane was the undercarriage. The Tears of Allah wreck sits right next to the ‘plane’ so I managed to fire off a few shots of Terri looking through the torpedo hole but all in all I was a tad disappointed.

Bahamas 19Terri suggested we take a look at another shipwreck lying upright at 20m. I looked for the name of the ship back at the dive centre but I couldn’t find it anywhere so I’ve christened it the Scooby Doo wreck because I haven’t a Scooby what it was called! I got some colourful shots of Terri by the prop and inside the square framework that used to be the bridge and then Chris, the official Stuart Cove photographer, handed me an imitation skull used in a Bollywood film production. Apparently the wreck had been used in an underwater scene along with 2 full skeletons. I positioned the skull inside the cargo hold with Charlie modelling in the background. I’m not sure what looks more scary, the skull or Charlie!

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In the evening Nathan gave us a guided tour of Atlantis which is the mother of all holiday resorts. There are multiple hotels, marina, casino, water park and the world’s largest open air marine habitat all located on Paradise Island. It’s extremely flamboyant and OTT but well worth a look. Nathan particularly liked the huge glass sculptures located in the foyers.

As a final treat Nathan had booked dinner at the 5 star Graycliff Hotel. This place really does have an impressive pedigree. The original Graycliff mansion was built in 1740 by infamous pirate Captain John Howard Graysmith. Throughout the years guests have included Lord Mountbatten, Winston Churchill and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. The property was purchased by present owners Enrico and Anna Maria Garzaroli in 1973 and turned into a 20 room hotel and restaurant. There is also a working cigar and chocolate factory located in the grounds. Enrico’s multi-million dollar wine collection has a quarter of a million bottles from 15 different countries. We were given a full guided tour of the cellar and shown one of the most expensive wine bottles in the world, a 1727 Rudesheimer Apostelwein, priced at $200,000 USD. The full wine list can be viewed on the hotel website.

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On our last non-diving day Nathan had mentioned visiting the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay in the Exumas. I was really keen to get some pictures and write a story but at the last minute the trip was cancelled so we opted for a day with Powerboat Adventures. This was basically a glorified booze cruise to Ship Channel Cay in the Exumas, including lunch, non-stop drinks and snorkelling gear, which didn’t sound like my cup of tea. In my mind the swimming pigs would have been a far better option.

We crowded onto a huge speed boat. There must have been around 70 to 80 people in total. The distance from Nassau to the Exumas is approximately 38 miles which takes about an hour by speed boat. We even had ‘go faster’ Miami Vice music playing in the background, it really was that corny. But my opinion changed when we reached Ship Channel Cay. The trip also included a shark feeding session where staff members would throw a fish on a rope into the water and try and wrestle with the shark. I managed to persuade them to let me go in the water while they were feeding the sharks. Charlie also came in to cover my rear. There were about 10-15 sharks, mainly Caribbean reef, nurse and lemon sharks. This was followed up with a 2 – 3 snorkelling session. The sharks got closer and closer and eventually came within touching distance. I thoroughly recommend this day out, the photo opportunities are endless.

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Back at the Sheraton hotel there was time for a quick shower and a change of clothes followed by a final taxi transfer to Nassau International airport. The past 5 days had been a real transportation overload but in a masochistic kind of way I had enjoyed every minute. Settling into my seat I closed my eyes and thought about planes, boats, taxis, Lazy Joe and then sleep overcame me.

Stuart has spent the past 26 years taking pictures and writing stories for diving magazines and other publications. In fact, this equates to more than a year of his life spent underwater. There have been plenty of exciting moments from close encounters with crocodiles and sharks to exploration of deep wrecks and more recently rebreathers. He lives in Poole, Dorset and is very much an advocate of UK diving.

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Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 2: Wall to Wall Wrecks

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red sea

Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…

The second day’s diving was a day full of wreck diving at Abu Nuhas, which included the Chrisoula K, Carnatic, and Ghiannis D. The first dive of the day was onto the Chrisoula K, also known as the wreck of tiles. The 98m vessel remains largely intact where she was loaded with tiles which can be seen throughout the hold. The stern sits at 26m and the bow just below the surface. One of the highlights of the wreck is heading inside and seeing the workroom where the machinery used for cutting the tiles are perfectly intact. The bow provided some relaxing scenery as the bright sunlight highlighted the colours of the soft coral reef and the many reef fish.

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Following breakfast, we then headed to the next wreck, which was the Carnatic. The Carnatic is an 89.9m sail steamer vessel that was built in Britain back in 1862. She ran aground on the reef back in 1869 and remains at 27m. At the time, she was carrying a range of items, including 40,000 sterling in gold. An impressive wreck where much of the superstructure remains, and the two large masts lay on the seafloor. The wooden ribs of the hull provide structures for lots of soft corals, and into the stern section, the light beams through, bouncing off the large shoals of glass fish that can be found using the structure as shelter from the larger predators that are found outside of the wreck.

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The final wreck at Abu Nuhas was the Ghiannis D, originally called ‘Shoyo Maru,’ which was 99.5m long and built in Japan back in 1969 before becoming a Greek-registered cargo ship in 1980. The ship then ran aground on the reef on April 19th, 1983, and now sits at the bottom at a depth of 27m. Heading down the line, the stern of the ship remains in good condition compared to the rest of the hull. The highlight of the wreck, though, is heading into the stern section and down the flights of stairs to enter the engine room, which remains in good condition and is definitely worth exploring. After exploring the interior section of the ship, we then headed over to see the rest of the superstructure, where it’s particularly interesting to see the large table corals that have grown at the bow relatively quickly considering the date the ship sank. After surfacing and enjoying some afternoon snacks, we made sure everything was strapped down and secured as we would be heading north and crossing the Gulf of Suez, where the winds were still creating plenty of chop.

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The next morning, it was a short hop to Ras Mohammed Nature Reserve for the next couple of days of diving. The 6am wake-up call came along with the briefing for the first site we would be diving, which was Shark & Yolanda. The low current conditions allowed us to start the dive at Anemone City, where we would drift along the steep, coral-filled wall. These dives involved drifts, as mooring in Ras Mohammed wasn’t allowed to protect the reefs. As a dive site, Shark & Yolanda is well-known and historically had a lot of sharks, but unfortunately not so many in recent years, especially not so early in the season. However, there was always a chance when looking out into the blue.

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The gentle drift took us along the steep walls of the site, with plenty of anemone fish to be seen and a huge variety of corals. It wasn’t long into the dive before we were accompanied by a hawksbill turtle, who drifted with us between the two atolls before parting ways. Between the two reefs, the shallow patch with parts of coral heads surrounded by sand provided the chance to see a few blue-spotted stingrays that were mainly resting underneath the corals and are always a pleasure to see. With this being the morning dive, the early sunlight lit up the walls, providing tranquil moments. Looking out into the blue, there was very little to be seen, but a small shoal of batfish shimmering underneath the sunlight was a moment to capture as we watched them swim by as they watched us.

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Towards the end of the dive, we stopped at the wreck of the Jolanda where the seafloor was scattered with toilets from the containers it was carrying. This provided a unique site to make a safety stop, which was also accompanied by a large barracuda slowly swimming by, along with a hawksbill turtle calmly swimming over the reef as the sun rays danced in the distance.

For the next dive, we headed north to the Strait of Tiran to explore the reefs situated between Tiran Island and Sharm El Sheik, which were named after the British divers who had found them. We started on Jackson before heading to Gordons Reef, where we also did the night dive. All the atolls at these sites provided stunning, bustling coral reefs close to the surface and steep walls to swim along, which always provided the opportunity to keep an eye out for some of the larger species that can be seen in the blue. Midwater around Jackson Reef was filled with red-toothed triggerfish and shoals of banner fish, which at times were so dense that you couldn’t see into the blue. Moments went by peacefully as we enjoyed the slow drift above the reef, watching these shoals swim around under the mid-afternoon sun.

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The night dive at Gordon’s Reef was mainly among the stacks of corals surrounded by sand, which was great to explore under the darkness. After some time circling the corals, we came across what we were really hoping to find, and that was an octopus hunting on the reef. We spent the majority of the dive just watching it crawl among the reef, blending into its changing surroundings through changes in colour and skin texture. It’s always so fascinating and captivating to watch these incredibly intelligent animals, in awe of their ability to carry out these physical changes to perfectly blend into the reef. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the boat to enjoy a well-deserved tasty dinner prepared by the talented chefs onboard.

Check in for the 3rd and final part of this series from Jake tomorrow!

To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:

Email: dive@scubatravel.com

Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590

www.scubatravel.com

Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red

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Marine Life & Conservation

Double Bubble for Basking Sharks

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The Shark Trust is excited to announce that, for two more days only, all donations, large or small, will be doubled in the Big Give Green Match Fund!

Donate to Basking in Nature: Sighting Giants

The Shark Trust is hoping to raise £10k which will be doubled to £20k. This will go towards Basking in Nature: Sighting Giants. And they need YOUR help to reach they’re goal.

The Shark Trust’s citizen science project is to monitor and assess basking sharks through sightings; encouraging data collection, community engagement, and promoting nature accessibility. This initiative aims to enhance health and wellbeing by fostering a deeper connection with British Sharks.

Campaign Aims

  • Increase citizen science reporting of Basking Sharks and other shark sightings to help inform shark and ray conservation.
  • Provide educational talks about the diverse range of sharks and rays in British waters and accessible identification guides!
  • Create engaging and fun information panels on how to ID the amazing sharks and rays we have on our doorstep! These can be used on coastal paths around the Southwest. With activities and information on how you can make a difference for sharks and rays!
  • Promote mental wellbeing through increasing time in nature and discovering the wonders beneath the waves!

Donate, and double your impact. Click Here

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Experience the Red Sea in May with Bella Eriny Liveaboard! As the weather warms up, there’s no better time to dive into the crystal clear waters of the Red Sea. Join us on Bella Eriny, your premier choice for Red Sea liveaboards, this May for an unforgettable underwater adventure. Explore vibrant marine life and stunning coral reefs Enjoy comfortable accommodation in our spacious cabins Savor delicious meals prepared by our onboard chef Benefit from the expertise of our professional dive guides Visit our website for more information and to secure your spot: www.scubatravel.com/BellaEriny or call 01483 411590 More Less

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