News
Bleaching and teaching – saving corals and marine life in the face of El Niño
In the Maldives, repressive politics, coral bleaching and the whale shark tourism industry are out of control. Two NGOs – Biosphere Expeditions and the Marine Conservation Society (MCS) – battle on regardless. Their silver lining is civil society groups.
The two NGOs have worked in the Maldives since 1990, eventually joining forces in 2011. Today they run an annual research expedition to the Maldives, assessing coral reef fitness alongside marine health indicators such as whale sharks. “We are also very concerned by the increasingly repressive political developments,” says Dr. Matthias Hammer of Biosphere Expeditions.
El Niño devastating reefs
The recent El Niño event has severely stressed corals in the Maldives too. So much so that according to MCS’s Dr. Jean-Luc Solandt the July research trip will be “one of sadness – to see the impact of climate change. A massive bleaching event has hit the Maldives in May as a result of a strong and long El Niño. It has clearly killed many shallow water Maldives reefs. Our task is to see the extent of the damage caused and to work out which reefs are more resilient.”
Dr. Hammer adds that “Maldivian local communities are only slowly becoming more aware of human impacts on reefs and therefore the source of their livelihoods and homes. Given the very real threats to coral reefs and the rapid pace of change, communities, politicians and government must be more proactive in managing the coral reefs of the Maldives properly and sustainably.”
Photos (left to right): Surveying the reef (c) S Hashim; Whale shark (c) Biosphere Expeditions; Colours of the reef (c) S Hashim.
Unsustainable, out of control whale shark exploitation and harassment
The two NGOs also do not mince their words in their assessment of the whale shark tourism industry in South Ari Marine Protected Area. “Although the area is a Marine Protected Area (MPA), as of yet it is merely a paper park. Despite suggestions for regulations being put forward, there is neither a proper management plan that all the stakeholders agree on, nor a governing body actively involved in enforcing these regulations. As a result, boat collisions that result in major injuries to the sharks and harassment by boats and divers / snorkellers engaged in irresponsible tourism activities are the rule, rather than the exception. Whale shark tourism is therefore far from sustainable and the MPA has a long way to go until it is no longer just a paper park.”
The silver lining: Where the officialdom fails, communities step in
But it is not all doom and gloom. Where officialdom is failing, civil society and committed Maldivians are stepping in. Ever since Biosphere Expeditions started running its annual research trip to the Maldives in 2011, it has educated and trained Maldivians in reef survey techniques as part of the Biosphere Expeditions’ placement programme. This culminated in the first-ever all-Maldivian reef survey in November 2014 and other community-based conservation initiatives since then, the latest in March 2016. Shaha Hasihim of local NGO Gemana, for example, has taken part in several expeditions and is now training her compatriots in reef survey techniques and setting up community-based conservation programmes, because, in her words, “monitoring the reef on a regular basis helps local communities identify issues that may affect the health of the reefs and take preventive measures to restore the balance and ensure reef survival.”
Photos (left to right): A healthy reef with live coral and a thriving fish population (c) S Hashim; A local volunteer collects the all-important data along the Reef Check transect line (c) S Hashim; Coral bleaching has also devastated Maldives reefs (c) XL Catlin Seaview Survey.
Biosphere Expeditions is also raising funds for more placements across other parts of the planet, as part of its campaign to train 15 young conservationists in 10 countries across the globe. The funding target is $7500. Donations are most welcome.
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Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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