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Pierre-Yves Cousteau’s Children of the Sea
I was a child the first time I saw the ocean. Standing on the sandy shore, the surf washed gently upon my feet. My mind and heart were immediately captured, dissolved into the blue vastness. I stood silently, absorbed and mindless, overwhelmed by the crashing of waves that echoed my own breathing. I entered the agitated waters. The force of this element bewildered me: pulling me in and pushing me out, offering no resistance to soft movements, yet countering force with hard crashing. For a moment I thought I had her laws figured out and began to play in her waves. The first one took me and threw me to the sandy bottom, pinning me there for what seemed to last forever, as the need to breathe became more urgent and daunting. Finally she released me, and I crawled back onto the shore, panting, exhilarated and confused. No, I had not figured her out, and she had shown me for the first time what fate she reserves to men who believe they do.
When I was nine years old, my father strapped a SCUBA tank to my back and took me diving for the first time. Like most people do, I panicked when I had to take off my mask for the first time. It was not sufficient that I could breathe in this unfamiliar environment; I had to see my surroundings in order to feel safe. Since then I have dived a thousand times, in almost every sea of the planet. Every time, my visceral connection to the ocean is strengthened. Every time, my intuitive understanding of the complex marine ecosystems is sharpened. And every time, about 35 minutes into the dive, I am submerged by a feeling of bliss and belonging that seems to whisper to my soul: “stay here”, as if a long evaporated drop of the sea had returned to visit, only for a while. A similar feeling to meeting a loved one who has passed away, in a dream. As if the truth in this life was not in separation, but in unity.
I am writing these lines from the sunny shores of Raja Ampat, to the far east of the Indonesian archipelago. Here, nature is lush and exuberant, both on land and beneath the mirroring surface of the sea. On my recent dives, I have recognized what I call the layered skins of the reef. Around the colorfully chaotic coral reefs, clouds of tiny fish expand and contract as larger predators zip by, like a heart, beating to a mysterious and unpredictable rhythm. Further out lies a concentric layer of larger fish, an interface between this ecosystem and the deep blue sea. Individuals who form this outer shell regularly migrate down to the reef, and then back to their school. I cannot help but to see this entire system as a living cell, with its living membrane and commuting proteins.
As I hunt for large predators with my underwater camera, I feel I can read these movements and have developed a sense of bio-intuition, which points me to where I am likely to encounter a passing manta ray, a shark, a turtle… and sometimes, nothing at all. Alone in the infinite blue, with no point of reference but the distant surface above me, I am insignificant, and I am home. I soon realize that I am not alone, as the strident song of unseen dolphins penetrates my bones. As I open my eyes to the microscopic particles around me, I discover a galaxy of living beings, oblivious to my bubbly presence, playing a crucial role as the primary producers of oxygen and biomass.
Finishing the dive, I return to the surface, tired and serene. Once again the ocean has dissolved my inner space and emptied my mind, filling my imagination with fleeting images of untamed beauty. Returning to the world of humans, I feel outraged by straight lines and perpendicular constructions of cold cement and steel, who rapidly drain my peace and dull my focus. Even here, far away from cities and roads, the beaches bear the scars of our legacy to future generations, all covered in plastic litter and debris.
In these last refuges of ocean wilderness, I have encountered not only the organisms and systems that keep us alive, but also the beauty and bewilderment that make us human. The ocean is an endless source of amazement and a constant reminder of humility. It has shaped our world for eons, nurtured our everyday lives, and inspired countless generations. Today, as the turbulent children of the sea that we are, we must find the ways to recognize our unbreakable bond, and to protect what must be, for our children and theirs.
For more blogs from Pierre-Yves Cousteau, visit cousteaudivers.wordpress.com.
Blogs
TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 3
Today we are diving one of the outer reefs from an inflatable. As we reach the bottom, a reef octopus eases its way into the cover of a small crack in the coral while displaying it’s incredible ability to change colour. They are arguably one of the most charismatic of reef dwellers and it is always exciting for me to simply hover and watch. I would have spent longer and waited for it to come and investigate me, but as dive time is limited we wanted to move on and find a turtle.
The waters around Somabay are well protected and hold a rich variety of marine life. The reef edges are thriving colonies of coral and shoaling fish, while nearer the sea bed plenty of wildlife is still to be found.
Then we located the turtles. They are very used to divers and so show little concern when slowly approached. In fact occasionally one will come over to see what you are doing. There is always huge excitement when diving with a turtle. The shear thrill of sharing a moment with another species.
What a fantastic way to finish a wonderful few days diving and I would like to thank SOMABAY, ORCA DIVING and THE BREAKERS for making my stay such a good one.
I had a great time, with diving everyday either on the house reef or on one of the offshore reefs by inflatable or larger day boat. Orca diving provided high quality equipment and facilities while the staff were all very friendly and welcoming. The Breakers was right on the coast with nice rooms, good food and once again friendly staff making the whole trip a real pleasure.
Soma Bay covers an entire peninsula and is home to several resorts as well as residential compounds.
As well as scuba diving, Somabay caters for many other sports and activities, and so is perfect for families as well as individuals and/or groups. And of course there is always time to lay peacefully on the beach under the Egyptian sun.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
Blogs
TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 2
Day three of my trip to Somabay and we were spending the day on the Lady Christina and diving on the wreck of the Salem Express.
Diving wrecks for me is always one of mixed emotions. The excitement of diving a wreck is more than often tempered by the thought of loss of life when she sank. The Salem Express was a passenger ship and a roll-on/roll-off ferry travelling from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga, Egypt. Most passengers were of poor class travelling home from their holidays while around 150 people were returning home from their pilgrimage to Mecca.
The ship struck a reef and sank within 20 minutes. Passengers were trapped below deck and the ship was filled with fear and panic.
The wreck area is strewn with personal belongings from the crew and passengers such as a transistor radio and a flat iron for clothes. A diver at sometime has put them in a prominent place to be seen.
Tragically only one life boat was launched while the others went down with the ship. More than 600 men, women and children lost their lives here.
It’s a stark reminder that the sea can be unforgiving and so when we dive on such wrecks we should do so with humble regard.
Returning to the surface, shoals of fish are gathered under our boat and seem to be welcoming us back into the light.
Back at the Breakers I sat in the dining area with a beer and a very good meal while my thoughts still remained with the day’s dive on the Salem Express.
Check in for part 3 tomorrow for Jeff’s last day of diving with Somabay on the off-shore reefs looking for turtles.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
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