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Mantas vs Sharks – Diving the Revillagigedo Islands
“Man cannot discover new Oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore” – Andre Gide
The Revillagigedo islands (other than having one of the most complicated names) is undoubtedly the trending dive destination of the moment for pelagic encounters. Known for its Giant Oceanic Mantas, it seems every dive magazine, blog and article is talking about these waters. Well, March 2016 was our turn to experience it. Sailing 240 nautical miles from Cabo San Lucas on the Nautilus Belle Amie to the first Island, San Benedicto. Known more commonly as the Socorro Islands, these four uninhabited Islands off the coast of Mexico sit isolated and alone in the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. San Benedicto itself looks remarkably like a sleeping Tyrannosaurus Rex, the hardened lava flow creating the spiky skin and the humps of the mountains replicating the body of the prehistoric beast.
Warm air temperatures and calm seas meant the first day of diving was remarkably serene – hitting the famous ‘Boiler’ our dive plan was to circle the rock and ascend back where we started. However, the moment we entered the water we were surrounded by fish, pointing out sharks at every turn, literally enamoured with the surroundings so only made it half way round! There were three groups of divers from the Nautilus Belle Amie; green, blue & red. We were in the blue group, second in the water but towards the final third of the dive the three groups reconvened to experience what I can only describe as a ‘spectacle’ – a beautiful shadow emerged from the blue, her white and black chevrons so distinct as she glided towards us. Approximately 20ft wingtip to wingtip, this Manta was almost four times my height, yet up close the delicate fins and sparkling skin made her seem impossibly delicate. Her eyes were bright and alert and looked right at you, connecting on an almost ethereal level.
Our group had many underwater photographers on board – beginners, amateurs and professional. I felt very privileged to dive amongst some of the best including Nigel Wade of DIVER Magazine and the infamous Paul Colley. Naturally, the shots they took were far superior and it became clear I still had much to learn. I found despite being close to these Mantas, getting a good shot was incredibly challenging. I did manage a few though with one shot in particular making me proud – ‘Manta & Jack Dancing’ – named because when Nigel gave me feedback he described it ‘as if the Manta and Jack are dancing together’. As soon as this alluring Manta had left us, another arrived out of the darkness, this time the distinct chevrons were missing… it was a Black Manta! A first encounter for us and one that really made an impact – no different in size but all the more intriguing as the black cloak encased the Manta’s skin like a phantom shadow. The intoxicating display caused me to stare, unmoving and bewitched whilst she swam over me. I missed numerous photo opportunities, not that I minded, it really was an amazing first experience with the giant beauties of the Pacific.
The second day we set off to Socorro Island, the only island humans go on land to man the Mexican naval base there. All three dives this day were at Cabo Pearce and whilst there was much to see, none were as spectacular as the first day. Poor visibility and strong current meant the dives were challenging and tiring. We were lucky to spot one Black Manta in the distance but it was difficult to see and after the success of San Benedicto it’s safe to say the group were disappointed with Socorro. I myself was keen to get to the final island on our itinerary, Roca Partida. Late that evening we set off and travelled 70km west to this odd little rock in the middle of nowhere. Known for it’s many Sharks, this dive site is unlike any other. The rock itself protrudes from the surface, the name literally meaning parted rock – formed of two pinnacles shaped like bunny ears distinctly white from all the seagull and booby droppings!
Our first dive here was spooky and unnerving as the sheer rock rose dramatically from the dark depths and the early morning light cast shadows across the water. The image here ‘Just keep swimming’ shows how striking the rock face really is, with the waves crashing thunderously at the surface – the school of fish seemingly swimming to escape. We proceeded to swim around the rock at approx 15 – 20m, I say this with a large ‘approx’ since the surge here is so powerful, you end up being forced upwards and back downwards 5m at a time when it catches you. One of the huge draws of this rock is the schooling hammerheads that are known to swim just out in the blue. Our own experience of this was nothing short of mind-blowing as hundreds and hundreds circled all around us. Lurking in the depths, these elegant creatures pass by like ships in the night. We were told not to follow them but to stay still and let them come to us so we did exactly that and were lucky to see the full impact of their distinct features. Richard captured the full effect on vide here:
Back at the rock it’s hard not to notice the real spectacle of this dive site – amongst the dark cracks and hollows the white tip reef sharks stir. Not one, or two, or even three, but up to 20 of them bundled on top of one another! The photo ‘Do not disturb my slumber’ encapsulates just one of the many nooks these sharks occupy. In isolation, this strange behaviour would seem odd but here on this desolate rock it feels like the most natural thing in the world as they slip and slide over each other for a daytime snooze. What’s even more fascinating is their interaction with divers – eyeballing you constantly as you move closer and closer until their resolve diminishes and they shoot off to find another spot. These white tips are really something to witness. Whilst they don’t have the majestic serenity of the Mantas, they do pull off an odd cuteness that makes them so interesting to watch.
After an eventful day at Roca Partida we headed back to San Benedicto for the last few dives of our trip. Similarly to the first day we were not let down and witnessed a Manta on every dive at The Boiler. There was one dive in particular that blew us all away when within 10 minutes of entering we found ourselves greeted by three Mantas dancing around us, playfully enjoying the bubbles. Then we heard the distinct squeaking of Dolphins, coming out from the dark blue waters as if saying ‘look at us!’. They played with each diver, doubling back towards us when our attention turned to the Mantas – competing with each other as they fought for our attention and pictures. This was definitely one of those dives you lock away in your memory as one of your top 5 of all time – it really will be hard to beat! Because of this you can understand why many of the articles on The Revillagigedo Islands talk about the giant Mantas, yet despite me also being a huge Manta fan I still find myself thinking about the White Tips. The lead photo of this article entitled ‘What you looking at?’ features a cheeky white tip chilling on Roca Partida eyeballing me whilst I get up close to take a shot of his laziness. If I am ever lucky enough to go back and dive these wonderous islands again, these beasties will be what excite me the most!
Blogs
TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 3
Today we are diving one of the outer reefs from an inflatable. As we reach the bottom, a reef octopus eases its way into the cover of a small crack in the coral while displaying it’s incredible ability to change colour. They are arguably one of the most charismatic of reef dwellers and it is always exciting for me to simply hover and watch. I would have spent longer and waited for it to come and investigate me, but as dive time is limited we wanted to move on and find a turtle.
The waters around Somabay are well protected and hold a rich variety of marine life. The reef edges are thriving colonies of coral and shoaling fish, while nearer the sea bed plenty of wildlife is still to be found.
Then we located the turtles. They are very used to divers and so show little concern when slowly approached. In fact occasionally one will come over to see what you are doing. There is always huge excitement when diving with a turtle. The shear thrill of sharing a moment with another species.
What a fantastic way to finish a wonderful few days diving and I would like to thank SOMABAY, ORCA DIVING and THE BREAKERS for making my stay such a good one.
I had a great time, with diving everyday either on the house reef or on one of the offshore reefs by inflatable or larger day boat. Orca diving provided high quality equipment and facilities while the staff were all very friendly and welcoming. The Breakers was right on the coast with nice rooms, good food and once again friendly staff making the whole trip a real pleasure.
Soma Bay covers an entire peninsula and is home to several resorts as well as residential compounds.
As well as scuba diving, Somabay caters for many other sports and activities, and so is perfect for families as well as individuals and/or groups. And of course there is always time to lay peacefully on the beach under the Egyptian sun.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
Blogs
TRAVEL BLOG: Jeff Goodman Dives SOMABAY, Part 2
Day three of my trip to Somabay and we were spending the day on the Lady Christina and diving on the wreck of the Salem Express.
Diving wrecks for me is always one of mixed emotions. The excitement of diving a wreck is more than often tempered by the thought of loss of life when she sank. The Salem Express was a passenger ship and a roll-on/roll-off ferry travelling from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga, Egypt. Most passengers were of poor class travelling home from their holidays while around 150 people were returning home from their pilgrimage to Mecca.
The ship struck a reef and sank within 20 minutes. Passengers were trapped below deck and the ship was filled with fear and panic.
The wreck area is strewn with personal belongings from the crew and passengers such as a transistor radio and a flat iron for clothes. A diver at sometime has put them in a prominent place to be seen.
Tragically only one life boat was launched while the others went down with the ship. More than 600 men, women and children lost their lives here.
It’s a stark reminder that the sea can be unforgiving and so when we dive on such wrecks we should do so with humble regard.
Returning to the surface, shoals of fish are gathered under our boat and seem to be welcoming us back into the light.
Back at the Breakers I sat in the dining area with a beer and a very good meal while my thoughts still remained with the day’s dive on the Salem Express.
Check in for part 3 tomorrow for Jeff’s last day of diving with Somabay on the off-shore reefs looking for turtles.
Book your next Red Sea dive adventure with SOMABAY! For more information, visit www.somabay.com.
Stay at the Breakers Diving & Surfing Lodge when you visit! For more information, visit www.thebreakers-somabay.com.
Find out more about ORCA Dive Clubs at SOMABAY at www.orca-diveclubs.com/en/soma-bay-en.
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