News
Jim & Cary Yanny’s Guide to Diving in Indonesia
Part 4: Raja Ampat
Define luxury. Most people would probably say that the word “comfortable” should be included in any sensible definition, but also that it must include being surrounded by plush, expensive items and that the more unaffordable those items are, the more luxurious the experience.
I beg to differ. I know where luxury resides and I can tell you that it’s not where you think is it. Don’t search for it in New York, London, Paris or Milan. No, where I’ve found it, there’s a complete lack of emblems, brands or fancy cars…..or cars of any sort, for that matter. There is a bit of native “bling” in this place, mind you, but even that is not of the type we’ve come to expect, being made mostly of colourful exotic bird feathers.
In this modern age, seven billion noisy souls’ lives are increasingly busy; work is dictated by ever-shortening deadlines, and connectivity is everything. Within this context, the value of material items has reduced a lot and new definitions are starting to replace them. Resources like “space”, “time”, and “peace” are becoming less abundant and therefore much more valuable. In our crowded world, they are the new luxury items of the 21st century.
The lush Indonesian province of West Papua (or “Irian Jaya”, to use its traditional name) has been almost completely uncharted territory to anyone who isn’t a local or a working in mining, lumber or fishing. That fact remains unchanged for the vast majority of people on the planet; however, recently there has been a growing awareness of West Papua, and of the Raja Ampat area in particular, amongst a tiny group of people consisting mainly of marine biologists and dive tourists.
The first indications that Raja Ampat might be an exceptional place for divers came to us about twenty years ago, from a most unexpected source: a young motorbike workshop owner called Max Ammer. The Dutchman had been clued-up that he might be able to find bike and jeeps in mint condition, remnants of the waste of WW2, on these remote islands to refurbish in order to make his fortune. In 1990 Max headed to Papua looking for the bikes, but what he discovered there surprised him. It was indeed riches, but not exactly of the kind he been seeking – the riches Max found were of a natural kind and were like nothing he’d ever imagined: forest canopies bursting with parakeets and other exotic birds, in secret bays with crystal-clear pools.
Then Max started to snorkel off Kri Island’s white-sand beach. What he discovered there blew his mind and changed his life forever. He fell in love with the place and the people (literally, as he married an Indonesian lady) and quickly “recalibrated” his mind from that of a mechanic to one of a conservationist and eco-resort owner. To this day, Max remains on Kri Island, where he runs two resorts under the “Papua Diving” brand. During our twelve years of living in Indonesia we were lucky enough to spend a good deal of time at Max’s Kri Eco Resort & Sorido Bay Resort and we are privileged to be able to count Max amongst our friends.
Raja Ampat was first put on scientists’ radar by the 1998 visit of a renowned Australian fish scientist, Dr Gerry Allen. After that short visit, Dr Allen lobbied Conservation International to conduct a fish survey, which he did with other scientists in 2001. Their findings was an astounding 970 species. On a later survey with his colleague Dr. Mark Erdmann, Dr. Allan counted 374 distinct species on just one 90-minute dive.
This means that Raja Ampat, quite simply, is home to the richest reefs on Planet Earth. Just off the “Bird’s Head” of West Papua province of Indonesia, it lies in the heart of the Coral Triangle, an area of the western Pacific Ocean that includes the waters of Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, Timor Leste and Solomon Islands and recognised as the epi-centre of marine biodiversity on the planet. The name “Raja Ampat” means The Four Kings in Indonesian, referring to the largest four islands of Misool, Salawati, Batanta and Waigeo. A smaller island of Kofiau and another 1500 islands make up the group, spread over a huge area of 40,000 square kilometres. The population of all these islands of Raja Ampat is tiny – just 50,000.
Allow me to offer you another definition of luxury: it’s “an exclusivity that makes one feel special and privileged”. If you ask me, being woken up by an “alarm clock” of fish splashing beneath one’s Papuan stilted hut is an especially luxurious way to start one’s day. Relaxing on the end of a jetty overlooking a calm sea and distant islands, waving to the passing fisherman in his canoe but seeing nobody other than him – that’s exclusive and special. Diving on a coral reef and looking up to a forest of trees just above it – that’s unique and special. Having the world’s richest reef as your nearest dive site – that’s very special.
Resorts in Raja Ampat don’t offer fine dining, they offer fine diving. They don’t offer infinity pools, but there’s an infinite sea. They don’t offer star-studded after-dinner shows, but look up into the black night sky, unpolluted by any city lights and you’ll witness a show of stars that beats anything man can hope to provide. Here is a more natural definition of luxury – it’s provided by Mother Nature herself…..and she’s laid it on in oodles. It’s a luxury defined by a knowledge that so few people ever get to experience this amazing frontier, one of the last pristine wildernesses to be found anywhere on earth. Here the only commuting crowds rushing by have gills, most of the schooling happens to be done underwater and the only call you’ll receive is from a Bird of Paradise flying high overhead.
By immersing oneself in Raja Ampat’s simple yet luxurious nature, something interesting soon becomes clear: that with so many creatures all around us, we’re not missing our creature comforts.
For more information, visit www.diversetravel.co.uk/destinations/Indonesia.
Gear News
Scubapro Free Octopus Promotion 2024
Free Octopus with every purchase of a SCUBAPRO regulator system
Just in time for the spring season, divers can save money with the FREE OCTOPUS SPRING PROMOTION! Until July 31st SCUBAPRO offers an Octopus for free
with every purchase of a regulator system!
Get a free S270 OCTOPUS with purchase of these combinations:
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with A700
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with S620Ti
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with D420
MK25 EVO Din mit S620Ti-X
Get a free R105 OCTOPUS with purchase of the following combinations:
MK25 EVO or MK19 EVO with G260
MK25 EVO or MK17 EVO with S600
SCUBAPRO offers a 30-year first owner warranty on all regulators, with a revision period of two years or 100 dives. All SCUBAPRO regulators are of course certified according to the new European test standard EN250-2014.
Available at participating SCUBAPRO dealers. Promotion may not be available in all regions. Find an authorized SCUBAPRO Dealer at scubapro.com.
More information available on www.scubapro.com.
Blogs
Northern Red Sea Reefs and Wrecks Trip Report, Part 3: The Mighty Thistlegorm
Jake Davies boards Ghazala Explorer for an unforgettable Red Sea diving experience…
Overnight, the wind picked up, making the planned morning dive a bit bumpy on the Zodiacs to the drop point on Thomas Reef. There, we would dive along the reef before descending through the canyon and then passing under the arch before ascending the wall with a gentle drift. The site provided great encounters with more pelagic species, including shoals of large barracuda, tuna, and bigeye trevally.
Once back on the boat, it was time to get everything tied down again as we would head back south. This time, with the wind behind us, heading to Ras Mohammed to dive Jackfish Alley for another great gentle drift wall dive before then heading up the coast towards the Gulf of Suez to moor up at the wreck of the Thistlegorm. This being the highlight wreck dive of the trip and for many onboard, including myself, it was the first time diving this iconic wreck. I had heard so much about the wreck from friends, and globally, this is a must on any diver’s list. Fortunately for us, there was only one other boat at the site, which was a rarity. A great briefing was delivered by Ahmed, who provided a detailed background about the wreck’s history along with all the required safety information as the currents and visibility at the site can be variable.
Kitting up, there was a lot of excitement on deck before entering the water and heading down the shoreline. Descending to the wreck, there was a light northerly current which reduced the visibility, making it feel more like the conditions that can be found off the Welsh coast. At 10m from the bottom, the outline of the wreck appeared as we reached the area of the wreck which had been bombed, as our mooring line was attached to part of the propeller shaft. Arriving on deck, instantly everywhere you looked there were many of the supplies which the ship was carrying, including Bren Carrier tanks and projectiles that instantly stood out.
We headed around the exterior, taking a look at the large propeller and guns mounted on deck before entering the wreck on the port side to take a look in the holds. It was incredible to see all the trucks, Norton 16H, and BSA motorcycles still perfectly stacked within, providing a real snapshot in time.
Overall, we had four dives on the Thistlegorm, where for all of the dives we were the only group in the water, and at times, there were just three of us on the whole wreck, which made it even more special, especially knowing that most days the wreck has hundreds of divers. Along with the history of the wreck, there was plenty of marine life on the wreck and around, from big green turtles to batfish, along with shoals of mackerel being hunted by trevally. Some unforgettable dives.
The final leg of the trip saw us cross back over the Suez Canal to the Gobal Islands where we planned to stay the night and do three dives at the Dolphin House for the potential of sharing the dive with dolphins. The site, which included a channel that was teeming with reef fish, especially large numbers of goatfish that swam in large shoals along the edge of the reef. These were nice relaxing dives to end the week. Unfortunately, the dolphins didn’t show up, which was okay as like all marine life they are difficult to predict and you can’t guarantee what’s going to be seen. With the last dive complete, we headed back to port for the final night where it was time to clean all the kit and pack before the departure flight the next day.
The whole week from start to finish on Ghazala Explorer was amazing; the boat had all the facilities you need for a comfortable week aboard. The crew were always there to help throughout the day and the chefs providing top quality food which was required after every dive. The itinerary providing some of the best diving with a nice mixture of wreck and reef dives. I would recommend the trip to anyone, whether it’s your first Red Sea liveaboard in the Red Sea or you’re revisiting. Hopefully, it’s not too long before I head back to explore more of the Red Sea onboard Ghazala Explorer.
To find out more about the Northern Red Sea reef and wrecks itineraries aboard Ghazala Explorer, or to book, contact Scuba Travel now:
Email: dive@scubatravel.com
Tel: +44 (0)1483 411590
Photos: Jake Davies / Avalon.Red
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